{"id":4942,"date":"2009-11-17T09:52:53","date_gmt":"2009-11-17T17:52:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/?p=4942"},"modified":"2020-08-12T10:27:55","modified_gmt":"2020-08-12T17:27:55","slug":"poperinge-belgium-the-oasis","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/poperinge-belgium-the-oasis\/","title":{"rendered":"Poperinge, Belgium: The Oasis"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4943 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/Poperinge_Town_Hall_and_Market.jpg\" alt=\"Poperinge, Belgium, town hall\" width=\"1200\" height=\"675\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/Poperinge_Town_Hall_and_Market.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/Poperinge_Town_Hall_and_Market-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/Poperinge_Town_Hall_and_Market-768x432.jpg 768w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1200px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1200\/675;\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em>by Keith Kellett<\/em><\/p>\n<p>From the outside, No. 43, Gasthuisstraat, in the Belgian town of Poperinge looks like a typical 18th Century town-house of a type commonly found in the Low Countries, but, it\u2019s famous world-wide. Outside fly the flags of Britain and Belgium, and a sign tells some of the story:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/poperinge.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-4944 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/poperinge-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Poperinge building\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/poperinge-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/poperinge.jpg 350w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 300px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 300\/225;\" \/><\/a>TALBOT HOUSE<br \/>\n1915 &#8212; ?<br \/>\nEVERY-MAN\u2019S CLUB<\/p>\n<p>I was in Poperinge researching an article about the war, and wanted to see the building my Grandfather had often spoken of. Being an ex-Serviceman, I\u2019m well aware of the work that the Toc H organization, which sprang from this \u2018club\u2019, do. I found out more when I went inside, to find the interior in more or less the same condition as it was at the war\u2019s end in 1918.<\/p>\n<p>During the First World War, Poperinge was a place of relative safety, where soldiers could be withdrawn from the nearby front-line trenches of Flanders for a brief respite. Shops, caf\u00e9s, cinemas and theatres were all open for the relaxing troops. But, the Rev. Philip Clayton, an Army chaplain, realized some soldiers needed something which wasn\u2019t readily available in \u2018Pops\u2019. He sought to provide a \u2018home from home\u2019, where a man could sit quietly with his thoughts, maybe read, or write a letter home, have a quiet conversation over a cup of tea with a friend \u2026 or, if he wished, pray.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018Tubby\u2019 Clayton and his friend, the Rev. Neville Talbot, rented a house from hop merchant Maurice Coevoet and set up their \u2018Every-Man\u2019s Club\u2019 where all soldiers, irrespective of rank were welcome. This was almost unknown at the time; Grand-dad especially treasured this, as it was one place he could talk frankly to his men, and they to him.<\/p>\n<p>They called it \u2018Talbot House\u2019 after Neville\u2019s younger brother, Lt. Gilbert Talbot, killed at Hooge some months earlier. As soldiers will, they reduced the name to initials only, soon becoming, in the argot of Army signallers \u2018Toc H\u2019.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cNowadays\u201d said the curator, having sat me down with a cup of tea in the true Toc H fashion \u201cthey\u2019d probably call it the Tango Hotel.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/poperinge3.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-4945 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/poperinge3-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"interior chapel\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/poperinge3-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/poperinge3.jpg 350w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 300px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 300\/225;\" \/><\/a>Toc H operated the \u2018Robin Hood principle\u2019. Officers\u2019 Messes (the \u2018rich!\u2019) frequently \u2018donated\u2019 items of furniture, and other useful equipment for use in the club (by the \u2018poor\u2019), often without their knowledge or permission! This was known as \u2018scrounging\u2019. It quickly became, in the words of one soldier \u2018an oasis in a world gone crazy\u2019 offering a short respite, not only from the War, but from the authority of the Army.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018All Rank Abandon, Ye Who Enter Here\u2019 says the sign on the door of Tubby Clayton\u2019s room, paraphrasing the sign over the gates of Hell in Dante\u2019s Inferno. That\u2019s one example of the amusing signs around the place. As a great fan of amusing signs, I loved them. There had to be rules, but Tubby saw no reason to get heavy about them.A sign by the front door says \u2018To Pessimists-Way Out\u2019, with a pointing finger indicating the door.\u2018The Boss Isn\u2019t Always Right \u2026but he is always THE BOSS!\u2019 reads another. That, I thought, was definitely one for the office wall.<\/p>\n<p>A peculiarity of Toc H was that \u2018the foundations are in the loft\u2019. After much work, and not a little \u2018scrounging\u2019 by the Queen\u2019s Westminster Rifles, who were billeted next door, the attic was converted into a chapel, usually simply referred to as the \u2018Upper Room\u2019. The altar was converted from a carpenter\u2019s bench, which Tubby found in a garden shed. But, for hundreds of worshipping soldiers, it became \u2018the shrine of the whole (Ypres) Salient\u2019.<\/p>\n<p>Food was always available, although you had to cook it yourself. Or, a cup of tea, a smoke or a companionable game of cards or billiards could be found. Sing-songs were popular. When Tubby put it about that a piano might be a welcome addition to the house\u2019s inventory, resourceful soldiers \u2018scrounged\u2019 three. Books could be borrowed from the library. But, all the notices in the world couldn\u2019t prevent \u2018scrounging\u2019 so a system was devised whereby a soldier borrowing a book left his cap as deposit, without which he couldn\u2019t leave the building.<\/p>\n<p>An important feature was \u2018Friendship\u2019s Corner\u2019. Here, on a bulletin board, soldiers could leave messages for, or make enquiries for their friends. \u2018Come Into the Garden and Forget About the War\u2019. Toc H was always proud of its restful \u2018English Garden\u2019, and still is to this day. To modern eyes, it looks rather ordinary, but, nevertheless, was much appreciated; \u2018 The largest room in the Old House\u2019 wrote Clayton.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/gp\/product\/1641710764\/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=1641710764&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=cedarcottagemedi&amp;linkId=54ec87a9e7131636f11186838eb4bb7a\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"\/\/ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com\/widgets\/q?_encoding=UTF8&amp;MarketPlace=US&amp;ASIN=1641710764&amp;ServiceVersion=20070822&amp;ID=AsinImage&amp;WS=1&amp;Format=_SL250_&amp;tag=cedarcottagemedi\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;\" src=\"\/\/ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com\/e\/ir?t=cedarcottagemedi&amp;l=am2&amp;o=1&amp;a=1641710764\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" \/>\u2018Men were everywhere, like lizards basking in the sun and half asleep\u2019 he recorded. Another visitor said, in a letter home \u2018The grass was almost unbelievably green; there were flowers and in a tree top, a bird was singing\u2019.<\/p>\n<p>Those were sights rarely seen in the Ypres salient at that time.<\/p>\n<p>The garden was packed to capacity on 23rd July 1917, when Dr. Cosmo Lang, the Archbishop of York, preached a sermon on the eve of the Battle of Passchendaele.<\/p>\n<p>The Toc H garden was only a short way in miles from the trenches. Indeed, shortly after Clayton posted his \u2018Come Into the Garden\u2019 notice, a German shell landed nearby causing one death, and damage for which Clayton subsequently received a bill from the house\u2019s owner! But, in other respects, it was half a world away, and it still is.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/poperinge2.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-4946 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/poperinge2-216x300.jpg\" alt=\"Poperinge street\" width=\"216\" height=\"300\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/poperinge2-216x300.jpg 216w, https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/poperinge2.jpg 252w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 216px) 100vw, 216px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 216px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 216\/300;\" \/><\/a>Many people make pilgrimages to the Ypres Salient to visit the battlefields, museums, cemeteries and memorials. Some of them come to \u2018Pops\u2019 and Toc H, which has been preserved in almost exactly the state it was in the Great War, but still provides inexpensive hostel accommodation.<\/p>\n<p>The garden is still there, kept just as \u2018Tubby\u2019 Clayton would have liked it, and it\u2019s still available for visitors to go into, and, for a short while, \u2018forget about the war\u2019<\/p>\n<p>It wasn\u2019t only soldiers who benefited from the facilities offered by Toc H. They frequently held parties and treats for the children of Poperinge. \u2018They gave us cheese and toffees\u2019 wrote Poperinge resident Jeanne Battheu. \u201c we did not know what toffees were, but soon found out when we tasted them.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>In 1917, when the activities seriously overcrowded the house, Tubby \u2018seized\u2019 the hop store next door, which became the \u2018Concert Hall\u2019. Several months afterwards, they say, he asked permission.<\/p>\n<p>After the war, Toc H was handed back to its owner, but, ten years later, Major Paul Slessor, representing Lord Wakefield of Hythe negotiated the purchase of the house, and its presentation to the Talbot House Association. Major Slessor then sought to restore it to the way it was under Tubby\u2019s benevolent rule, in which state it\u2019s been ever since, except for during the Second World War, when the memorabilia were spirited away and hidden, to be returned after the war.<\/p>\n<p>For many years, Toc H served as a hostel and rendezvous point for veterans revisiting the old battle-grounds, or for people seeking the graves of their friends and relatives. The name lives on with the Toc H movement, a charitable Christian fellowship and community service organization.<\/p>\n<p>And, Toc H itself is still a reasonably-priced self-catering hostel, usually used by those visiting the battlefields. I did regret that, because my accommodation was already arranged, I didn\u2019t spend the night there. Casual visitors are always welcome to look around It\u2019s been preserved almost exactly as it was in 1918, but although the custodian is called the \u2018curator\u2019, one thing Toc H is not is a \u2018museum\u2019.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.shareasale.com\/m-pr.cfm?merchantID=18208&amp;userID=198454&amp;productID=561333506\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/cache-graphicslib.viator.com\/graphicslib\/thumbs360x240\/6179\/SITours\/private-somme-battlefields-fromelles-and-flanders-fields-tour-with-in-brussels-174120.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" \/><br \/>\nPrivate Somme Battlefields, Fromelles and Flanders Fields Tour with Last Post Ceremony in Ypres from Brussels<\/a><\/p>\n<h3>If You Go:<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.talbothouse.be\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">www.talbothouse.be<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.greatwar.co.uk\/ypres-salient\/town-poperinge.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">www.greatwar.co.uk<\/a><\/p>\n<p><em>About the author:<\/em><br \/>\nHaving written as a hobby for many years while serving in the Royal Air Force, Keith Kellett saw no reason to discontinue his hobby when he retired. He has published in many UK and overseas print magazines, and on the Web.<\/p>\n<p><em>Photo credits:<\/em><br \/>\nPoperinge Town Hall and Grote Markt by <a title=\"via Wikimedia Commons\" href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Poperinge_Town_Hall_and_Grote_Markt.jpg\">Kenneth C. Zirkel<\/a> \/ <a href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-sa\/4.0\">CC BY-SA<\/a><br \/>\nAll other photos are by Keith Kellett.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>by Keith Kellett From the outside, No. 43, Gasthuisstraat, in the Belgian town of Poperinge looks like a typical 18th Century town-house of a type commonly found in the Low Countries, but, it\u2019s famous world-wide. Outside fly the flags of Britain and Belgium, and a sign tells some of the story: TALBOT HOUSE 1915 &#8212; [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4943,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26],"tags":[315,915],"class_list":{"0":"post-4942","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-europe-travel","8":"tag-belgium-travel","9":"tag-poperinge","10":"entry"},"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4942","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4942"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4942\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4943"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4942"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4942"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelthruhistory.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4942"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}