by Noreen Kompanik

Most visitors to the Big Island of Hawaii are searching for volcanoes and waterfalls. But on a recent visit, we yearned to find out more about its fascinating history. To do this right, we had to step back in time searching for petroglyphs and ancient ruins.

Petroglyph Fields

“Petroglyph” comes from the Greek words, petros for rock, and glyphein to carve. Hawaiians call this form of rock art k’i’i pohaku, or images in stone. Though petroglyphs can be found in at least 100 sites on all the Hawaiian Islands, the largest concentration of these mysterious carvings is on the Big Island of Hawaii.

Though the true meanings behind these ancient rock carvings dating back at least 400 years or more are unknown, it’s widely believed they commemorate a wide range of significant occurrences in the lives of the ancient Polynesian Hawaiians.

With early Hawaiians possessing no form of written language, these figures carved into lava rocks are thought to record not only births and parts of rituals, but also statements of place and other significant religious, social, and political events that occurred in their lives long before the native Hawaiians’ contact with western cultures.

Some of the petroglyph images are clustered near historic land boundaries or along footpaths cut through lava fields, but the full reasons for their location and cryptic creation may forever remain a mystery.

Our journey back in Hawaiian history began with one of the best preserved petroglyph sites on Hawaii’s Big Island—the Waikoloa Petroglyph Field on the western Kona side of the island. It’s believed Hawaiians settled this coast from 1400 to 1700 AD and going to and ventured inland to quarry stone for abrading tools. But some historians believe the island could have been visited as early as 1,000 AD.

Petroglyphs were often left made as a recording of the ancient Hawaiian’s visit and a wide variation of these carvings were found intact within these craggy lava fields. Shallow caves thought to have been made as weather retreats are also found here. And this area, just a short distance from an upscale shopping center is the most accessible petroglyph field on the island.

Puako Petroglyph Archeological Preserve just a few miles to the north from Waikoloa is a 1.4 mile roundtrip trek in one the largest petroglyph sites on the Big Island.

Found just a short walk from the stunningly beautiful ocean-side Fairmont Orchid Resort, this site contains thousands of well-preserved etchings, some of oldest found on the island. The petroglyphs were discovered during the development of a golf course for the Fairmont. The area however was kept intact and the 233-acre preserve was respectfully established to protect these ancient Hawaiian remnants.

Carvings of humans, canoes, sailing ships, turtles, chickens and even family groups among other symbols are messages left in stone. Others show soldiers yielding weapons. One can only wonder at the messages they were passing on to future generations. Or if within these fields, the ancient Hawaiian mana still lives here.

The unpaved trail is accessed through a kiawe (thorny tree) forest. Signs are clear for visitors to never touch or climb on these ancient archeological treasures but explanations about the historically significant petroglyphs remain mysterious and sparse.

Other numerous petroglyphs are also located at the coastal end of Chain of Craters Road in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Unfortunately this area can be closed at times for safety reasons due to high levels of sulfur dioxide content in the air.

Hawaiian Village Remains

For a fascinating self-guided tour of a historic Hawaiian village on the leeward coastline of Kohala, Lapakahi State Historic Park provides the chance for visitors to feel the winds of time and history blowing through this magnificent place.

As settlers sailed into magnificent Koai’e Cove some 700 years ago, they rejoiced at the opportunity to safely land their canoes. The rolling hills and gulches provided a rare sheltered cove from the strong Pacific winds along this rugged shoreline. The sea was rich in food and the soil nurtured their crops.

The ruins here are surprisingly extensive. Black stone walls and many remnants still fairly intact today cling to the hillside alongside a breathtaking seaside landscape.

Lapakahi was the place for fisherman and farmers. Though most families lived along the shore to fish, some moved inward to grow kalo (taro) and ‘uala (sweet potato).

Though there is no recorded history of the people here but what remains on the land helps cultural archeologists put some of the pieces of the puzzle together.

Trails through the Lapakahi village contain two loops. An interpretive brochure from the visitor’s center details the numbered markers along the path identifying the various structures, foundations and their purposes.

Of particular interest is the reconstructed Historic Hale or house site built with a bamboo frame, pili grass thatching and rounded basalt pebbled floor. The house was occupied into the early 1900s.

Hawaiian settlers dug wells, made their own salt, fished using the luhe’e lure made with a cowry shell and rock sinker specifically designed to catch the he’e (octopus).

A fishing shrine was built as a place to leave offerings to the Gods to ensure abundance from the sea. Mua, a family religious site was built for prayers and offerings.

Stacked rock walls remain as remnants of a large residential complex. A Halua Wa’a was a thatch-roofed long walled enclosure to store canoes near the canoe landing. Of particular interest to us was a Papamu, a checkers-like game played on a stone board with black and white pebble pieces.

No one knows for sure when the walls of the village were constructed or the people who first journeyed to Lapakahi but one thing remains clear. They probably came for the abundance of the sea. And from its captivating bluffs, fishermen could watch the changing of the ocean and the presence and movement of the birds, fish and mammals that dwelled among them in their new abode.

By exploring ancient archeological sites such as the petroglyphs and Lapakahi we can appreciate even more the Hawaiian’s intense belief that it’s past must be preserved for future generations to better understand who they are.

There are so many more sites to explore — and they call us to return on another day.

As they say in Hawaiian “E malama no keia mua aki (follow in the footsteps of those who came before). The journey to discover some of ancient Hawaiian history and culture was truly an experience we won’t soon forget.

If You Go:

1. Waikoloa Petroglyph Field

2. Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve

3. Lapakahi State Historical Park

About the author:
Noreen Kompanik is a published freelance travel writer and photographer based in San Diego, California. She is a member of the ITWA and IFWTWA and shares many of her adventures, stories and photos on her website whatsinyoursuitcase.net and What’s In Your Suitcase? Facebook site.

All photos by Noreen Kompanik
Waikola Petroglyph Field
Puako Petroglyph Archeological Preserve
Lapakahi State Historic Park
Reconstructed Hale at Lapakahi State Historic Park
Rock Walls at Lapakahi State Historic Park
Exterior Structure of a Historic Hale

Hiking the Ancient Makawehi Lithified Cliffs

by Noreen Kompanik 

Known for its unique geography and unparalleled natural beauty, Kauai is one of the most breathtaking islands in the world. A hiker’s dream. Truth be told even if one is not an avid hiker, the abundance of natural wonders waiting to be explored is endless.

Our hearts were set on introducing our fellow travelers to the spectacular Na Pali Coast, globally renowned for its rugged, breathtaking grandeur, secluded beaches, rainbow waterfalls and, yes, challenging, daunting hikes. Three days of heavy rains and flooding foiled our plans. Steep treacherous cliffs and slick trails make for heart failing excitement, but, not the kind of excitement we were looking for. Even under the best conditions the Na Pali Coast can be dangerous with its washed out trails and narrow, stony paths clinging precariously to the edge of cliffs. With more rain expected in the forecast, we reluctantly took the locals advice and headed south to the sunny shores of Poipu. It is here on the south side of Kauai that we found unexpected treasure.

Kauai’s southern coastline features a fascinating path along the ancient, fragile ecosystem of the Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail. The trail begins on crescent-shaped Shipwrecks Beach near the Grand Hyatt in Keoneloa Bay. A fishing vessel was said to have run aground on the bay’s sandbar. Though remains of the vessel are now “lost at sea”, the beach retains its famous name. Leaving the tropical white sandy beach, we were surprised to find ourselves in groves of fresh, fragrant pine trees. Our path covered with thousands of soft green needles. Colorful flora and fauna of the forest surrounded us. With very few hikers to be seen, we felt as if the trail was ours alone.

After climbing a gentle upgrade, we emerged into a completely different world. Greeted by azure skies and miles of crystal deep blue sea, the stunningly rugged coastline stood before us. Commanding views of the churning Pacific waters were visible from vantage points overlooking the edge of sun bleached cliffs. Magnificent coves in the distance appeared like a perfect painting. Blowholes shooting occasional sprays of salty ocean water along the path demonstrated the immense power of the ocean at high tide. Binoculars in hand, we ventured closer to the water, our excitement piquing with the unexpected sight of massive humpback whales breaching in the distance.

The Makawehi Lithified Cliffs loomed ahead, appearing like an alien landscape. These cliffs were formed from sand dunes weathered by wind and surf over thousands of years. Crashing wave action carved sharp ridges and deep pockets in the cliff side. Lithification occurred when sediments compacted, then filled pores with ground water containing high levels of minerals. Fascinating scientific explanation that translates to- spectacular views.

Each bend in the path yielded more surprise- the element of any good journey. Crystal clear tide pools teemed with tiny fish and miniature crabs all scurrying to find safety as each wave brought more water surging into the pool. Treasure troves of fossils and petroglyphs carved into the rocks line the coastal pathways. Skeletal remains of extinct birds that once lived on Kauai before Polynesian voyagers first arrived over 1500 years ago have been discovered by paleontologists.

Each outcropping of rock, each sheltered bay and inlet, each changing vista yielded more awe inspiring views and geological wonderments. Cool, moist caves lured us to their entrances begging to be explored. Whooshing sounds of waves roaring through the wind tunnels cautioned us to beware the mighty power of the Pacific surf.

On our return trip, we followed the inside trail away from of the direct sun and into the welcoming shade of the palm and coconut forest. Since the paths split and merged repeatedly, we were able to easily navigate a completely different route back. Much to our surprise, we unexpectedly stumbled across a sacred ancient Hawaiian burial site. The stillness was interrupted by a gentle breeze stirring through the treetops, reminding us that for the ancient gods, their mana still lives here. Eyes closed, we sensed the spirit of the ancient Hawaiians and heard their whispers urging us to respect this sacred ground.

Arriving back to Shipwrecks Beach at the end of our trek, we were certain we could undertake this adventure multiple times and it would never be the same. Though not an exceptionally challenging hike, we instead experienced a relaxing trek with breathtaking views and fascinating discoveries perfect for a casual or family hike. Oh, and about that initial disappointment in forgoing the Na Pali trail, nature’s artistry took care of that.

Louis L’Amour once said “The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for.” We are thankful to have not missed this unexpected treasure.

If You Go:

Take Highway 50 east from Hanapepe. Turn right on Highway 520 toward Po’ipu. At the end of 520, turn right on Koloa Road and then left on Poipu Road. Park in the lot near the Hyatt Hotel and take the trail between this hotel and the Poipu Bay Resort golf course. OR, go to the east end of Shipwreck Beach to access the cliff trails. The hike is a round trip of approximately 3½ miles. Plan on at least two hours (or more if you love to explore).

Kauai: Waimea Canyon and Fern Grotto Kauai

About the author:
Noreen Kompanik is a published freelance travel writer and photographer based in San Diego, California. She is a member of the International Travel Writers and Photographer’s Alliance and shares many of her adventures, stories and photos on whatsinyoursuitcase.net and the What’s In Your Suitcase? Facebook site at www.facebook.com/Whats-In-Your-Suitcase-322531634589666.

All photos by Noreen Kompanik:
1. Beginning the Hike
2. Rocky Kauai Coast
3. High tide on the Cliffs
4. Alien looking Landscape
5. Makawehi Bay & Inlets
6. Sacred Burial Ground

The sounds of the guns barking broke up the calm of the quiet Sunday morning; the Attack on Pearl Harbor had begun. It was to be the last day of peace for many years. The bullets were screaming and flying everywhere, amid the loud roar of the Japanese airplanes flying above. My body shuddered, my mind deep in thought. Then I realized I was walking down the runway. Now suddenly awake from my daydream I found that I was standing on Ford Island staring at the bullet holes in the hangar walls, the broken glass windows and the pockmarked concrete runway. History was all around me from the strafing Japanese airplanes.

It has been a long time over 70 years since that day December 7, 1941, a date which lives in infamy. However today it is a nice calm and warm summer day. All around the hangers the scars of war are present. It is amazing that there are still bullet holes left over from all those years ago on that fateful day. The next day December 8, 1941 President Franklin Roosevelt requests, and receives, a declaration of war against Japan. All around the island of Oahu are reminders of the attack.

Fort Shafter is the oldest U.S. military installation on the island. Visit Quarters 5 residence of General Walter C. Short who was head of security on Oahu in 1941. Palm Circle which was strafed on December 7, 1941 houses the Pineapple Pentagon, Headquarters of the U.S. Army Pacific Command.

Schofield Army Barracks was the site of the movie, “From Here to Eternity,” which was filmed there. It is the largest Army Base outside of the Continental United States. The Japanese attack aircraft flew over the base strafing everything in sight as they headed to bomb Wheeler Field and Pearl Harbor.

Wheeler Army Airfield was the location of Oahu’s fighter command post in 1941 where brave Army Air Corps pilots fought against the Japanese in the skies of Oahu. The movies “Tora, Tora, Tora,” and Disney’s, “Pearl Harbor” were filmed there.

Haleiwa Field on December 7, Lt. George S. Welch and 2nd Lt. Kenneth M. Taylor were at Wheeler field when the attack started and not waiting for instructions called Haleiwa field to have their fighters fueled, armed and warmed up. They raced to Haleiwa field by car and jumped into their cockpits and took off. They shot down 6 Japanese airplanes and were both awarded the Distinguished Service Cross for their bravery and valor during the attack.

Pearl Harbor Visitor Center/ Museum/ Battleship Row, the Arizona Memorial is probably the most visited site on Honolulu and begins at the visitor’s center with an outstanding film documenting the attack on Pearl Harbor, with actual footage of that day. There are informative displays to learn more about the events that took place that changed the course of American History. There are snack areas and food vendors where you can relax and grab a bite to eat. We met some of the survivors and were able to thank them for their service.

Board a US Navy launch for a short ride to the USS Arizona Memorial, which is part of the WWII Valor in the Pacific National Monument. The USS Arizona Memorial is built right above the sunken remains of the ship. You can read the names of all 1,177 sailors and marines who were killed on December 7, 1941.

Battleship Missouri Memorial located on Battleship Row located a mere ship’s length from the USS Arizona Memorial, completes a historical visitor experience that begins with the “day of infamy” that saw the sinking of USS Arizona in Pearl Harbor and ends with Imperial Japan’s unconditional surrender aboard USS Missouri in Tokyo Bay. Following an astounding career that spans five decades and three wars, from World War II to the Korean War to the Operation Desert Storm, the “Mighty Mo” was decommissioned and donated to the USS Missouri Memorial Association, Inc.

The Punchbowl National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific is known to the Hawaiians as Puowaina or “Hill of Sacrifice.” This is the final resting place of over 35,000 Americans who proudly served their country. Experience the serenity of the Cemetery and discover the cemetery’s meticulously landscaped acres. There are also the Courts of the Missing, the chapel and the finely detailed mosaic maps of the Pacific theaters of action in World War II.

My wife and I visited the Diamond Head Crater which features a 360 degree view of Waikiki and the turquoise blue Pacific. After walking up the side of the crater, 271 plus steps, up staircases, through tunnels and bunkers we reached the top at about 760 feet above sea level. We stood over the Diamond Head Lighthouse beneath us, just offshore of the blue Pacific Ocean. It is now a United States Coast Guard facility that was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980 and featured on a United States postage stamp in June 2007.

Waikiki Beach meaning (pouting fresh water) in Hawaiian in Downtown Honolulu is probably one of the most famous beaches in the world with it’s the white sand beach. The area of Waikiki is home to public places including Kapiolani Park, Fort De Russy Military Reservation, Kahanamoku Lagoon, Kuhio Beach Park, and Ala Wai Harbor.

Today, the area is filled with large resort hotels, such as the Hilton Hawaiian Village, the Halekulani hotel, the Hyatt Regency Waikiki, the Hyatt Place Waikiki, and the Sheraton Waikiki. However, earlier photographs show an almost deserted area. The Moana Surfrider Hotel and the Royal Hawaiian Hotel are some of the historic hotels dating back to the early 20th century. One of the most well known is the Royal Hawaiian or Pink Palace (recognized for its pink façade) opened in 1927. It has a rich history and connection to Hawaiian culture. Enjoy a Lava Flow at the open bar just off of beach and gaze at the majestic Diamond Head Crater.

The beach also hosts many events a year, including surf competitions, outdoor performances, hula dancing, and outrigger canoe races. The beach is the place for a lot of action as there is always something happening.

Iolani Palace is the only royal palace in the United States. It was the official residence of Hawaii’s monarchy and is a marvel of opulence, innovation and political intrigue. Meticulously restored to its former grandeur, this National Historic Landmark in downtown Honolulu tells of a time when their Majesties, King Kalakaua, who built the palace in 1882, and his sister and successor, Queen Liliuokalani, walked its celebrated halls.

Hawaii Five O Aliiolani Hale is a building located in downtown Honolulu and is currently the home of the Hawaii State Supreme Court and the statue of King Kamehameha the Great located in the front of the building. The headquarters of the television series Hawaii Five O is purportedly set inside of the building.

Walk through the downtown area and visit the multitude of stores available to fulfill the most finicky shopper’s desires. There are also many fine restaurants.

Hop a bus or drive out to the North Shore about an hour north of Waikiki and watch the surfers. The North Shore is considered to be the surfing Mecca of the world and Haleiwa town is the gateway. It is a laid back surf town with surf shops boutiques, restaurant and art galleries.

Between the months of November and February are the best times to watch the more experienced surfer’s battle the big waves that can reach up to thirty feet. However from May to September the waves are smaller and more tranquil for beginning surfers and excellent for swimming and sunbathing. There are fifty one beaches on the North Shore some of the more famous include Waimea Bay, Sunset, and Ehukai (home of the Banzai Pipeline) and have thick white sands that stretch for more than eleven miles.

Complete the day by trying one of the local specialties. Haleiwa is also known for its shrimp trucks which are a group of individually owned and operated trucks that sell local, fresh shrimp. They each have there own unique style and flavor and individual specialties however basic garlic and butter and hot and spicy are the two most well known. Usually they are served with rice and macaroni salad. At Mackey’s we had the garlic and butter which included rice and a garden salad with pineapple.

The Home of the Brave Tour is a one of a kind World War II experience. They will visit Pearl Harbor, Arizona Memorial, Fort Shafter, the Punchbowl National Memorial, Schofield Army Barracks, Wheeler Army Airfield, Downtown Honolulu and the Home of the Brave Museum.

Private Pearl Harbor Deluxe Tour

If You Go:

♦ There are a variety of direct and indirect flights of airlines and prices to Honolulu, Hawaii.
♦ There are also a variety of hotels and condos to choose from.
♦ One of my favorite restaurants in Honolulu is Jimmy Buffet’s Beachcomber, 2300 Kalakaua Avenue, Honolulu, HI 96815.

Private Pearl Harbor and USS Arizona Memorial Tour and Pacific Aviation Museum Tour from Waikiki

About the author:
Larry Zaletel is a freelance travel writer and a recurring visitor to Western and Eastern Europe, the Islands of the Caribbean, Mexico, South America, and Hawaii. He loves to travel and has also visited parts of Canada and many States of the United States. He writes about the places he has visited, the people he meets, and their customs. Larry is a regular contributor to Travel Thru History

All photos by Larry Zaletel:
The tower on Ford Island, used in the movie ‘Pearl Harbor’
Lighthouse taken from the peak of Diamondhead Crater
The Punchbowl
Honolulu, also taken from Diamondhead Crater
Waikiki Beach
Mackey’s Shrimp Truck

Kaua’i, Hawaii

by Joan Boxall 

Bird-watching is the most popular recreation in America, and the Audubon Bird Count summons us every December to the Christmas Bird Count on the ‘Garden Isle’ of Kauai in the Hawaiian Archipelago. With David Kuhn, creator of the website, ‘Sounds Hawaiian’, we add native forest birds to our count. Kuhn leads us into the Alakai Swamp’s mist and mud, in Koke’e National Park, on a surreal mission, where we are about to trade eyes for ears.

The Audubon Count has been ongoing for 114 years and is the longest running Citizen Science survey, offering data on population trends of North American birds, from mid-December to early January.

In the early nineteenth century, Audubon, ornithologist, painter/illustrator, naturalist, taxidermist and author of the four-volume, Birds of America, sketched and then water-color painted renderings of over 700 of the 914 species, then topped up, with chalk pastel details. Innovative at that time was his depiction of birds in their natural habitat, in everyday poses. We feel ready to identify some of those, in the field.

Early-birds we aren’t, so we drive from sea level on Kauai’s South Shore the day before and stay the night at Orchard Cottage, a cabin situated at 3600 feet, a five-minute walk from The Lodge at Koke’e State Park. Volunteers get a reduced rate with a family membership. We sign up.

Outside, Red Jungle fowl (chicken escapees from 1992’s Hurricane Iniki) strut and peck, while we enjoy our home-cooked spaghetti dinner. It’s December’s early dusk, and we find ourselves constellation-gazing. Orion, The Hunter, with his club and shield, rises up. Alongside are his faithful hunting dogs, Canis Major (the Big Dipper) and Canis Minor (the Little Dipper).

Bedside reading is Hawaii’s Birds by the Hawaii Audubon Society, which includes the native birds we’ll be spying. I’m cramming as if for a driving signage test: two yellow ones, two red ones and a brownie. The red and yellow ones have curved and straight beaks. On the (olive) yellow side is the Common ‘Amakihi (Mr. Curved Beak), and his sweet warbling straight man, ‘Anianiau, who, just to make things interesting, is known as the lesser ‘Amakihi.

In the red corner is ‘I’iwi whose call, like a rusty gate, squeaks from its curved hinge. As it turns out, the bird with the most agile movements and versatile calls turns out to be Kuhn’s favorite songster, the ‘Apapane. All four are honeycreepers, unique to Hawaii. Oh, and the little brownie? That’s the hikers’ friend, ‘Elepaio, with cocky tail feathers and a curious boldness. I’m ready for my drivers’ test and dawn comes quickly on our Jungle fowl alarm-clock.

We introduce ourselves outside the Koke’e Museum at seven, and loosely plot a process for the morning count. I’ll record specie sightings, while Kuhn and my husband will spot, look and listen. After a twenty-minute, slick 4×4 mud-road ride to the Alakai Swamp Trailhead, Kuhn provides us with long bamboo walking sticks. Bird counts are open to the public, and we wait for any late arrivals, but it’s just us. We count on the way in, so as not to re-count any birds on the way back. It’s a linear hike; out and back. ‘By the way,’ he adds, ‘we may get a sixth bird, the ‘Akeke’e. It’s a long shot.’

It is another LYB (little yellow bird), but with a descending trill. At this point, I suspect that the top six may be harder to spot than previously thought. As it turns out, this isn’t about spotting. We won’t be eye witnesses; we’ll be ear witnesses.

We head out on the Alakai Trail, which in Hawaiian means ‘to lead’, where the Pihea Trail intersects. Pihea means ‘wailing voices’, but I’m hoping Kuhn is leading us to where the birds elicit the din (no whining or wailing from us). We’re climbing to 4000 feet— puffing, bouncing, and sometimes slithering on meshed redwood planks, all-the-while inhaling mist that blows in wisps across the trail. We’re teetering on the ridge above the Kalalau Valley. Tack it up to the altitude. I’m dizzy with delight. And my ears feel like gramophone horns— two stretching lobes, leaning into the rain forest for the slightest incantation from our bird buddies.

We hear trills, warbles, slurs, cheeps, chips, buzzes, squeaks and something like a cell phone. ‘The cell phones are crickets,’ says Kuhn, pursing lips to forearm in a kissing-call to attract Apapane.

‘One more Apapane,’ says Kuhn, and I switch to pencil as the paper puckers in the dampness.

Kuhn’s love calls succeed, and we count 33 of them, thanks to his audacious ear. We walk in silence, and after two hours, re-route.

‘Did you see that?’ asks Kuhn. I observe a flutter of red, like two valentines. ‘Two ‘Apapane mating, right on the trail,’ says an ecstatic Kuhn. ‘Never seen that.’

We continue on with smiles on our faces. Kuhn stops again minutes later. His composure is ruffled. He’s riveted on the forest, hanging on every note.

‘I’ve got to catch a glimpse just to confirm that sighting,’ he says. Moments later he reappears.

‘Yes, it’s an ‘Akeke’e, an endangered species, only found in Kauai’s Waimea Canyon region, present and accounted for.’

‘What drew you to this work?’ I ask Kuhn.

‘Probably growing up on a duck farm…I was a hunter.’

Just like Audubon. Just like Orion. And now, listening and recording have become Kuhn’s shield, dog, gun, chalk pastel and paintbrush… for conservation and enjoyment.

Private Tour: Kauai Waterfalls, Hidden Beaches, Ancient Sites, Kilauea Lighthouse and Hanalei Bay

If You Go:

♦ Birds of Kauai: www.kauaibirds.comwww.kauaibirds.com
♦ Bird Watching in Hawaii: www.hawaiiaudubon.com/birding/kauai.html
♦ www.hawaiiaudubon.org/#!kauai-birding/c1yzp
♦ Kauai Bird Recovery Project: kauaiforestbirds.org/about-us/

Best of Kauai Tour

About the author:
Joan Boxall is a Vancouver writer with a keen interest in bird watching. At present (December 2014) she is back on Kauai to attend the Christmas Bird Count again. She is a member of the BC Travel Writer’s Association.

NOTE: David Kuhn’s Websites are here – soundshawaiian.com/birds_kauai.html and www.birdquest-tours.com/ourteam.cfm?team=37

Photo credits:
‘Anianiau – USGS / Public domain
‘Elepaio – HarmonyonPlanetEarth / CC BY
Amakihi – Bettina Arrigoni / CC BY
‘I’iwi – Kanalu ChockCamera location20° 46′ 03.6″ N, 156° 14′ 09″ W View this and other nearby images on: OpenStreetMap – Google Earth 20.767667; -156.235833 / CC BY-SA
‘Apapane – ALAN SCHMIERER from southeast AZ, USA / CC0

by Leslie Jones

The final curve along this pristine, scenic highway soon reveals the road sign I’ve been anticipating. My heart begins pounding, the excitement escalates and we’re soon turning off and heading down a long, steep road to what was once a bustling sugar plantation named Paauhau. With the vast Pacific Ocean before me and lush cane fields on either side, three generations of my family lived here for over 30 years.

Gone are those magical days when the streets were alive with the sights and sounds of children’s playful laugher and smoke billowing from Paauhau’s nearby mill. The general store, once the heart and soul of the community, had school buses stopping off several times a day to unload junior and senior high school kids, field workers being picked up out in front each morning at 7 a.m. sharp, and mail being delivered each afternoon.

Today, the old general store and social hall far below are barely standing, my family’s house still sits proudly high atop a hill and the old mill remains were finally taken down this past year. Paauhau remains a peaceful residential enclave for those who have chosen this exquisitely beautiful, quieter lifestyle.

Located along this breathtaking 50 mile coastal highway (Highway 19) connecting nearby historic Honokaa with Hilo on the Island of Hawaii, this entire journey is picturesque, pristine and alive with waterfalls, beautiful cliff-top vistas and historic towns. Authentic stories of days gone by are found around each intriguing curve in the road along the entire Hamakua Coast. It’s worth taking an entire day to slowly meander through this historic, awe-inspiring region.

Having once played the role as a classic plantation region in the early 20th century, the Hamakua Coast has needed to diversify its economic base with the closure of many plantations. With much of the area still zoned for agriculture, additional crop offerings now include pineapples, coffee, papayas, macadamia nuts and tea.

Historic Honokaa, a designated “Main Street, USA town”, is located along the northern coastal region and proudly promotes itself as a gateway to world-famous Waipio Valley, located 10 miles to the north at the end of the Hamakua Heritage Corridor drive. Known as “The Valley of the Kings”, this sacred site was the childhood home to King Kamehameha I and an important center for political and religious life in Hawaiian culture.

Its physical beauty is unparalleled with a valley one mile across, over five miles deep and surrounded by cliffs up to 2000 feet high. A small community of local farmers continues to live in the valley farming taro and fishing along the peaceful shores of this remote region. Just stop for a few minutes at the lookout and take it all in since you won’t find anything quite as majestic as this often in your lifetime.

With a treasure trove of historic buildings still lining the downtown sector including the Honokaa People’s Theatre and Hotel Honokaa Club, Honokaa was once a popular hangout for thousands of WWII Marines and soldiers stationed nearby and a bustling commercial center for the sugar mill camps of Haina, Kukuihaele, Paauhau, Kapulena, and New Stable. It’s also where my grandmother once taught school and where my parents were married back in the 1950s.

Heading further south, astonishing cliffs-top views of the mighty Pacific below and small towns revealing old Hawaiian architecture continue with every twist and turn in the road. Far below, Laupahoehoe Point Beach Park bears the poignant tsunami memorial from when it struck the school on April 1, 1946. Highly impacted by this tsunami originating from the Aleutian Islands earthquake, 20 students and four teachers were carried out to sea and their names are prescribed on this memorial well worth visiting along the way.

Continuing south, Hilo’s Sugar Plantation Museum is intriguing, authentic and informative. Recently relocated from downtown Hilo and up the Hamakua Coast a few miles, it’s now located in the old Papaikou Plantation Store and is now in the midst of reopening. With a family history so richly ensconced in the region’s sugar plantation legacy, we are granted our own personal viewing and tour the museum one afternoon. Still in the process of being refurbished, photos, home décor, carvings and vintage signs adorn the walls and display cases. This place is truly a step back in time to plantation life and a well-deserved restoration of an entire lifestyle once found throughout the region.

This intriguing journey concludes in Hilo’s historic sector along Kamehameha Avenue with an abundance of cultural museums, antique and specialty book stores and a bustling old flower shop that first opened in the 1920s. Downtown’s Pacific Tsunami Museum is a fascinating study abounding with an extensive history about Hilo and its captivating past. Displays ranging from the science behind a tsunami to a warning simulator grace the interior along with heartwarming stories of survival, heartbreaking tales of those lost at sea and photos of Hilo before and after tsunamis have struck. Housed in the First Hawaiian Bank Building, it was built in 1930 by the famous Hawaii architect C.W. Dickey and successfully survived both the 1946 and 1960 tsunamis.

Heading into several antique stores is also synonymous with revisiting the area’s intriguing past. Authentic Hawaiian shirts, books, ukuleles and vintage record albums line the crowded aisles. There’s a dignified serenity throughout this town that honors a long, rich history. Art Deco buildings still bearing the names of original stores, including Kress and the Palace Theatre, rise high above the friendly, local streets below.

Awe-inspiring waterfalls, pristine valleys, cliff-top views of the crashing Pacific surf far below all bring the sights and sounds of the entire Hamakua Coast to life. This vast region between Hilo and Honokaa and further up to Waipio Valley, tells intriguing tales of Hawaiian sugar plantations, Hawaiian kings, and paniolos of nearby Parker Ranch. Mana, a term granted to those special places that possess a spiritual quality, is indeed alive and well.

Volcanoes National Park and Hilo Private Tour

If You Go:

♦ Waipio Valley Lookout
Located approximately 10 miles north of Honokaa on the Hamakua Heritage Corridor Drive

♦ Historic Honokaa
Located 40 miles north of Hilo, HI on Highway 19

♦ Laupahoehoe Point Beach Park
Located approximately 25 miles north of Hilo on Highway 19

♦ Hawaii Plantation Museum
Located several miles north of Hilo off of Highway 19
27-246 Old Mamalahoa Highway, Papaikou, HI
(808) 443-7679 (call first to see if open)

♦ Hilo’s Pacific Tsunami Center
Located in the historic downtown sector of Hilo
130 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo, HI
(808) 935-0926

Kilauea Summit to Shore from Hilo: Small Group

About the author:
Leslie has spent her entire life visiting the islands with so much family history especially with the Big Island. Her last trip was in May 2012 for extensive research and hundreds of photos were taken along the way. Previously Published Clips: Hilo, HI Article – Go World Travel Magazine (www.goworldtravel.com) Published Portfolio Blog: lesliewritten.blog.com

All photographs are by Leslie Jones:
Road to Paahau
Vintage Highway 19 sign
Church in Honoakaa
Waipio Valley
Laupahoehoe Point
Historic Hilo

Glider Flying in Honolulu, Hawaii

by Larry Zaletel

I watch as the black Mercedes slowly begins to move down the blacktop runway. As the driver shifts through the gears the car quickly gains speed and the attached towrope begins to tighten. The glider slowly starts to lift off from. Catching the updrafts the pilot continues to take advantage of the air currents and rises out of the valley. The plane climbs higher and higher into the air where, nestled in the valley below lays the city of Erlangen, Germany. I can barely see the aircraft after a while as it is soon almost out of sight. For a long time I stand there in amazement my eyes transfixed on the sight.

I have watched gliders in movies before, but not up close. That was the first time that I had seen them. I happened to walk over to the flight line that Saturday after learning about the gliders from one of my Army buddies. I watched as they went about their work with a cool determination. There was more that one glider being readied. I remember that it was a partly cloudy day, the sun occasionally peaking out of the clouds.

Later I learned that this was a frequent occurrence. Every Saturday afternoon weather permitting, the German civilians came to the airfield located just outside of the American Army base to fly their gliders. I would stand there and observe them drive on to the airfield with their gliders and then watch as they would unload their equipment and prepare everything in order to launch. The air above the little valley provided the necessary current for them to spend the afternoon soaring in and out of the clouds. They sailed on the thermals through silence on gossamer like wings. Someday I vowed to do this.

The thought stayed with me over the years. The idea of flying in a glider fascinated me but though opportunities came and went, I never took advantage of them. Finally when the opportunity became available I couldn’t miss the chance.

Honolulu Soaring is located at Dillingham Air Field in Mokuleia on the island of Oahu’s Hawaii North Shore. Close to Haleiwa town they have offered piloted gliding services since 1970. Dillingham Airfield was used extensively during World War II along with Haleiwa Field which was an unpaved emergency landing strip. I learned about Honolulu Soaring from an article I read in a guide book. The article intrigued me as it stated that they offer panoramic views of Oahu.

I didn’t know that a glider doesn’t need wind to fly. A glider just needs air flowing over its wings. It’s the pull of gravity that keeps the air flowing over the wings. When a glider flies through rising air, it climbs and vice versa.

The name of our orange and yellow glider is the Bird of Paradise. I briefly take a quick look inside of the glider. There are two seats one in front of the other, the control stick, and the pilot’s instruments. I climb into the plane’s cockpit followed by the pilot and we fasten our safety harnesses. My lanky legs straddle the underside of the pilot’s seat and the pilot instructs me not to touch the control rods of the ailerons, rudder and elevator mechanisms with my feet. Each has a specific mission.

The ailerons are the movable sections cut into the trailing edges of the wing or back of the wings. These are used as the primary directional control and they accomplish this by controlling the roll of the plane (tilting the wing tips up and down).

The rudder or vertical stabilizer is the vertical wing-like structure on the tail and turns the airplane. It is used to control the yaw of the aircraft by allowing the pilot to point the nose of the plane left or right.

The elevator or horizontal stabilizer is the movable horizontal wing-like structure also located on the tail. It controls the pitch of the plane, allowing the pilot to point the nose of the plane up or down.

It is a cozy fit although surprisingly it is not as tight as I would have thought in the two man cockpit and I am able to fit my 6.1 foot frame in comfortably. The pilot checks his instruments (altimeter, compass, and airspeed indicator), closes the Plexiglas canopy and glances around the cockpit doing a quick security check.

The pilot in the tow plane performs a short circle in front of us to check that are no other objects (airplanes, skydivers etc) in the flight path. He then starts down the runway picking up speed. As the towrope tightens I feel a slight bump and movement in the plane. The air current begins to lift us after we travel only a few feet and the glider begins to rise into the air. Surprisingly my stomach remains calm. The tow plane revs its engine more and we edge higher and higher into the air, turning back and forth. The view of the lush green valley below becomes clear and larger and larger under us. “My goodness what I feeling!” I think.

I take a few deep breaths, relaxing my stomach muscles and view the panoramic seen around me. I glance around the valley below looking for interesting photo opportunities. I snap a few photographs hoping that the glint from the sunlight bouncing off the Plexiglas cockpit will not interfere with the clarity of my shots. Hopefully we will see.

Soon I notice that the tow plane is loosing the tow rope and we are on our own. Suddenly it becomes so quiet, I can just about hear my heart beat. The rush of the incoming air into the compartment from the vent is the only noise I hear. It is like being up in the air with just you and God. I had always thought that it would be this way.

I have an incredible view of Oahu’s North Shore, the lush Waianae Mountains with their rugged cliffs laced with trails. I strain to look but I can’t see Pearl Harbor, the interior of Oahu, Diamond Head or Honolulu. Below me is the blue Pacific Ocean, with coral reefs and breaking waves. Someone once told me that the experience of soaring in a glider is about as close as you can get to flying like a bird, now I believe them. Spending time about 3000 feet over the lush landscape of Hawaii gives me a different perspective.

A glider can stay airborne indefinitely as long as it flies in updrafts. An updraft or thermals provide lift that can carry a glider higher and longer. Thermals are columns of rising air created by the uneven heating of the Earth’s surface from solar radiation. Thermals are also found in roadways and cities where the heat warms the ground and the air above it. Pilots also often tap into the winds deflected from mountain ridges or cliffs. By using these methods a glider pilot can remain airborne for hours. This is known as soaring. By finding and using lift sufficiently pilots can fly cross country and remain in the air all day.

We catch the thermals as we fly over the green valley toward the mountains. In the distance on the side of the mountain I see large white objects and as we fly closer I can make out a windmill farm of over 23 windmills. Turning 180 degrees we head toward the Pacific Ocean with its various shades of blue, the waves lapping at the shoreline. We pass over the airfield and I can see a sandy beach all along the coastline and below are pineapple farms and harvested fields plowed and ready for a new crop.

The pilot suddenly performs a sharp turn and we begin to descend to the airfield. We skim over the trees and come closer and closer to the earth. I can barely feel the ground as the singular wheel touches down gently on the runway and we roll a few feet and slow finally to a stop. It is finished. What an exciting way to spend thirty minutes flying in the clouds, something I’d wanted to do since the time when I had observed my first glider flight many years ago in Germany.

1-Hour Seaplane Adventure from Honolulu

If You Go:

♦ There are a variety of direct and indirect flights of airlines and prices to Honolulu, Hawaii.
♦ There are also a variety of Hotels and condos to choose from.
♦ My favorite restaurant in Honolulu is Jimmy Buffett’s Beachcomber, 2300 Kalakaua Avenue, Honolulu, HI 96815. [IT CLOSED IN 2016 – ED]
♦ Honolulu Soaring or 808-637-0207

Private 2-Hour Surfing Lesson in Honolulu

About the author:
Larry Zaletel is a freelance travel writer, an avid and dedicated traveler, and recurring visitor to Europe, the Caribbean, and the Far East. He writes about the various people that he has met and places that he has visited during his travels.

Photos by Larry Zaletel:
Thumbs-up landing
Touchdown just as we landed
Soaring over Dillingham Airfield and the Pacific Ocean
Our tow plane

by Denise Rogers

It used to be a shorter trip or so it seemed — having a meal served then watching a movie — six hours passed quickly. Now it feels like an interminable amount of time.

Is it worth it? Oh yes. We land, retrieve our luggage and walk out into the sunshine. The Trade winds are blowing; those wonderful, gentle breezes that caress the palm trees and carry the scent of plumeria, just one of the many flowers that grow in the Islands. I can feel my body letting go of all the stressors. We are back on Maui.

Our time is spent doing absolutely nothing. No agendas, no schedules and no appointments. We wake up to the sound of tropical birds coo-cooing, eat our breakfast which always includes sweet, yellow papaya, go for a walk either through the magnificent Norfolk pines or along the ocean, return to our condo, maybe read, have lunch on the lanai, drive into Lahaina to shop for dinner, perhaps rent a movie then go to bed. We do the same thing pretty much every day in what we call “Paradise”. There are no nasty bugs and dangerous critters in Hawaii. We also like being in the good old US of A in case we need medical attention.

One of the highlights of our trip is driving to upcountry Maui on the slopes of the now dormant volcano, Haleakala. Every time we make the trip it feels like a new adventure. We are never bored by the scenery – the sugar cane and pineapple fields, the red earth, the rows of hibiscus and the sea below where earlier we had just squished the wet sand between our toes.

Our destination is the Kaluanui Estate – a former sugar plantation and home built by the Baldwins, one of the missionary families. Here Ethel Baldwin invited friends to come and create art. The estate is now the Hui No’eau, a Visual Arts Center and Gallery.

Maui has become our second home and just like Bali Hai in the musical “South Pacific,” it “whispers in the wind of the sea, here am I, your special island. Come to me, come to me.” A hui hou.

If You Go:

♦ There are non-stop flights from Vancouver to Maui return via West Jet or Air Canada. You could also fly out of Bellingham, WA.

♦ Accommodations vary from hotels to condos depending on your needs. We prefer the north west side of the Island, Napili. Kaanapali is just next door then a short drive takes you to the old whaling town, Lahaina. If you want a more arid, desert experience then stay at the south end in Wailea or Kihei. Check the website: www.gohawaii.com/maui

Maui Tours Now Available:
West Maui Whale Watching and Snorkeling Excursion
Full-Day Maui Tour: Road to Hana Tour
Myths of Maui Luau Dinner and a Show

Maui Day Trip: Haleakala, Iao Valley, Old Lahaina from Oahu

About the author:
Denise Rogers’ background is in training and development and adult education. She edited professional journals, company newsletters, designed training manuals and contributed to a column in the Burnaby NewsLeader. While creating art with children in various programs for the City of Burnaby, she was inspired to write and publish her first picture book; Today is the Day to Run Away. See: www.bigtoepublishing.com

Photo credits:
All photographs are by Denise Rogers.

by Teresa Adamowski

Most people know Kaua’i as the Garden Isle. On a recent visit to the oldest Island in Hawaii’s archipelago, I was surprised to learn of Kauai’s other claim to fame.

My first image of Kaua’i is from high above on the final approach to the Island. The vibrant red earth is a stark contrast to the intense cerulean ocean. The dirt is red due to the fact that the high iron content of the volcanic soils has had plenty of time to oxidize, especially with the wet conditions of the island. Incidentally, Kaua’i is the rainiest place on Earth.

As I step onto the sizzling tarmac, the air is still and stifling hot. The sun’s rays are tenacious and it is a relief to fling myself into the air conditioned van that will take me to my final destination approximately one hour North of Lihue Airport.

It’s not evident upon first glance, however as my taxi journeys over the bumpy and winding road Northward, I notice a copious cluster of chickens and roosters happily foraging the immaculate beachfront. It strikes me as odd to see so many chickens wandering freely, so I ask the cab driver for an explanation. He smiles and shares with me a fascinating story of Hawaii’s very recent history.

“When Hurricane Iniki hit the Island in 1992, the powerful storm destroyed many large chicken farms and the feathered inhabitants fled to all corners of the Island”.

He went on to explain that as Kaua’i encompasses dense vegetation, massive waterfalls, canyons and vast areas that are only accessible by air or water, the chickens were able to escape detection for many years. Since then, they have thrived in this tropical paradise and the lush Island has been overrun by a large and growing feral chicken population.

“I don’t eat the chickens myself, but my wife’s family are always chasing them things,” The cab driver chuckles. “Her family’s a bit crazy,” he adds in a hushed tone.

The status of the Kaua’i chickens and roosters becomes more evident as I settle into my suite at the Princeville Westin Resorts on the North Shore.

I am awakened by loud crowing at the crack of dawn and the whole clan joins me by the infinity pool where they peck at the stray handouts willingly offered by curious tourists, who snap photos to commemorate the moment.

The concierge at the Resort offers an alternate explanation to the recent chicken explosion. During the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, sugarcane plantation labourers imported and raised the chickens for eating and as a form of entertainment (“cockfighting”). Over the years, some of the chickens got loose and formed the wild clan. He concurs that the massive hurricanes certainly contributed to the over abundance of chickens.

Curious to test my theory that there must be a place on the Island without “free-range” chickens, I embark on a day trip to Tunnel’s Beach, which is a favourite haunt for snorkelers and swimmers due to the generous cove that is protected by a coral reef. I enjoy a scenic drive to the North West corner of the Island, along the rural twisting seaside roadway. Around each corner I strain to catch a glimpse of the most perfect uninhabited white sand beaches through the bushy over growth. I stop along the way to witness the enormous surf crash onto the shore with a thunderous clap.

As if this display of ferocity is not enough to deter swimmers, there are many notices warning of dangerous tidal conditions. At the end of the road, I arrive at a secluded, romantic beach teeming with tourists, locals and yes, more chickens.

After a week of exploring the natural wonders of Kaua’i, I no longer think of wild chickens on the beach as strange. Somehow they have grown on me and add to the quirky but friendly ambience of the Island. I imagine the Kauaians are no doubt thankful for the boost to their local economy. A visit to any gift shop on the Island reveals numerous chicken themed souvenirs and surprisingly the quantity and selection surpasses the availability of local sea turtle merchandise. The Kaua’i chicken is here to stay as the unofficial and unusual mascot of the Garden Isle.

Kauai Luau and Sunset Dinner

If You Go:

♦ Don’t be deterred by Kauai’s claim as the rainiest place on Earth. When it does rain it does not last long and dries very quickly due to year round tropical temperatures.
♦ Rent a car in Lihue airport or in the City as it can be very pricey to take a cab across the Island (e.g. $100 U.S.D. + tip from Lihue to Princeville).
♦ Bring with you a sense of adventure. There are many activities to enjoy while you visit Kaua’i, including helicopter tours, hiking in Waimea Canyon, surfing, snorkeling, kayaking and sailing to name a few.
♦ The locals are especially friendly and are a great source of information and advice.

About the author:
Teresa Adamowski is a writer who is very physically active and creative. In her spare time, she enjoys running, drawing, and hiking. Recently she suffered a setback in her half marathon training and has found solace in writing She loves to travel and explore new cities, however has found a special connection with the Islands of Hawaii and plans to return very soon. Publications: viewer.zmags.com/publication/4dba4be2#/4dba4be2/58

All photographs are by Teresa Adamowski.

Mau’i and Moloka’i

by Tom Koppel

The wind off Maui’s northwestern coast picks up, creating short, choppy waves that slop over the sides of the traditional Hawaiian canoe and into our faces. But the tropical sea is blissfully warm. Though wet and wild, it is an exciting ride as Captain Timmy Gilliom shouts out orders to his crew of agile sailors and brings the boat about for a fast downwind run. I admire the canoe’s refined construction. Not a nail, bolt or other piece of metal is to be seen. The twin dugout hulls are connected by cross-pieces of rare koa wood. All the wood is so perfectly lashed together with rope that nothing squeaks or groans even under great stress. The outing gives our small group of visitors a tantalizing taste of what the early Polynesians experienced as they traversed vast distances in open boats.

Another day, Gilliom shows us the larger voyaging canoe that he and a small non-profit group are nearly finished building at a boat shed in Lahaina. It is crafted largely of modern materials, such as fibreglass and epoxy, and the sails are fastened on metal tracks. “You’ve got to go with the times,” says Gilliom, who has skippered the famous canoe Hokule’a on cruises as far as Easter Island that re-enact the ancient journeys of his ancestors. In the distance is unpopulated Kahoolawe, identified by scientists as the source of basalt for stone tools found on an atoll near far-away Tahiti.

My wife Annie and I are immersing ourselves in the history and culture of Hawaii’s less crowded “outer” shores, far from the lights and traffic of Waikiki. It is like opening a Russian doll, so many hidden dimensions are revealed. We keep getting vivid glimpses of long-vanished ways of life. It is a rich, diverse and sometimes shocking tableau, full of extreme contrasts. On the one hand, there is the fondly imagined paradise of dramatic geography, a sultry climate and beautiful native people. On the other, a history of brutal warfare and the oppressive traditional social system, in which commoners might be killed for stepping on the king’s shadow. On the Big Island, however, people were safe if they reached sanctuary within the walls and temples of the City of Refuge, now painstakingly restored.

Centuries of ecological destruction and extinctions have left their mark. All the main edible plants—taro, yam and coconut, papaya, banana and citrus fruits—were introduced by the colonizing Polynesians. Primordial forests were slashed, burned and terraced for agriculture. Native birds were decimated by land clearing or by the rats that came as hitchhikers on the canoes. No Hawaiian landscape resembles what existed a thousand years ago.

Also surprising is how rapidly Hawaii changed after Captain Cook arrived in 1778. By the 1820s, Lahaina was a bustling center for whalers and missionaries, with grog shops and churches, brothels and hotels. That was fully two decades before the Gold Rush led to the growth of San Francisco. In fact, Lahaina had America’s first high school west of the Mississippi. Since then, entire industries, such as pineapple cultivation, have come and gone, vanishing almost entirely. Great forests of koa and sandalwood were pillaged for export. Where fields of sugar cane flourished until quite recently, there are now virtual ghost towns and abandoned mills.

Even such iconic pastimes as surfing have undergone change. We begin our sojourn at the home of old friends, Charley and Lisa Erck, on the Big Island. A fine woodworker, Charley custom-builds a seldom-seen style of hollow surfboard designed by a famous 1930s surfer, Tom Blake. These are truly works of art, but Charley loves to show them off in real waves. They drive us down to the beach at spectacular Waipio Valley, fringed by thousand-foot cliffs and irrigated by Hawaii’s tallest waterfall. Waipio, once densely populated, was the early domain of a chief who eventually united the islands by force and became King Kamehameha. From a lookout above, we see tidy plots of taro, a mainstay in the old Hawaiian diet. A tsunami in 1946 destroyed most of the houses and cultivated lands, but a few dozen homesteaders gradually returned. While Charley surfs and Lisa swims, we kayak back a century in time, up the little river past funky homesteads and grazing wild horses.

Then, we join a cruise that starts at the Big Island and ends on Maui. Carrying around 30 passengers, the Safari Explorer is a small but deluxe ship. At Mauna Lani resort, where our group assembles, we marvel at sophisticated ancient fish ponds that provided a fine and predictable catch for the chiefly elite. Nearby are mysterious petroglyphs etched with strange human and animal figures, and cave-like lava tubes, where people used to find shelter. One side trip takes us to a seaside heiau, a huge temple platform of black lava rocks built for Kamehameha. Its dedication required a human sacrifice, so his cousin (and rival) was slain. On the shore below was a separate temple, where victims were fed to the sharks.

Our ship is well-equipped for seeking out marine wildlife. We snorkel among brilliantly colored reef fishes and the graceful green sea turtles that have long been revered throughout Polynesia. Large pods of spinner, spotted and bottlenose dolphins surround us several times, weaving back and forth, twisting in the air, and cavorting in our bow wave. Humpback whales blow and leap halfway into the sky. One night, we float in wetsuits while powerful spotlights illuminate the depths. The lights attract dense plankton and the huge manta rays that feed on it. We watch, transfixed, as these gentle giants swoop by gracefully just below us, ghostly creatures with gaping mouths and wings fifteen feet across.

Other evenings, special guests come on board. A hula troupe gives a performance that is nothing like what tourists experience at most resorts and commercial luaus. The lead dancers are men. They do aggressive, warlike steps, much like the Maori haka in New Zealand, rather than gentle, flowing ones. The moves are accompanied by chanting and drumming. There is not a ukelele or guitar in sight. We join them in drinking awa, a mildly narcotic ceremonial potion known elsewhere in the Pacific as kava. Another night, we meet Lawrence Aki, a hulk of a man who exudes quiet dignity, and his young disciple Kawika. Lawrence is a kumu (teacher) from a remote valley on Molokai. Kawika has lived with him for five years, helping at first in the taro patch and learning the old ways. This includes speaking the Hawaiian language and reciting genealogies. “It’s a lifetime commitment,” Lawrence says.

We anchor and go ashore at sparsely populated Lanai, once the exclusive company realm of Dole fruit. A high plateau in the island’s center had pineapple fields stretching for miles. Today, it’s cheaper to grow them in the Philippines. We hike through an exotic tropical forest to a high lookout. The waters of the lush valley below once irrigated the pineapples. Big horned moufflon sheep graze on a hilltop. A gorgeous lodge with a world class golf course stands where workers at a cattle ranch used to live. In tiny Lanai City, contending lawn signs debate the economic benefits and environmental impacts of installing giant wind turbines to generate electricity for Honolulu.

On Maui, small buses take us up through cooler elevations and ranch land to the 10,023 foot summit of Haleakala for a blazing sunset. Legend says the volcano was created by the wandering fire goddess, Pele. Women used to place placentas atop the peak to ensure long and healthy lives for their children. Now it houses an array of telescopes, one so powerful it was used to inspect damaged tiles on the space shuttles.

The final morning, a humpback leaps in the distance. It is a fitting sendoff. We have an entire afternoon to enjoy before a midnight flight home, and we have decided to visit a small museum about Pacific whaling. It features the old tools and equipment and the many products produced from an estimated 292,000 great cetaceans killed by the American fleet alone between 1825 and 1872. Fortunately, the humpbacks have made a remarkable recovery in recent years, from a low of around 1,000 in the 1960s to 20,000 or more today. On display outside is the impressive skeleton of a 40-foot sperm whale.

Our last evening in Lahaina, before facing airport security and other 21st century pleasures, we dine in a seaside restaurant, where the tiki torches are lit at dusk. We hang out in the quiet courtyard of the venerable wooden Pioneer Inn. And we stroll under a vast multi-trunked banyan tree, decorated with Christmas lights, that covers an entire city block. Growing for well over a century next to the old harborfront courthouse, it has been a silent witness to all the swirling tides of Hawaiian life.

If You Go:

For the Hawaiian winter cruises of Safari Explorer (or its summer cruises in Alaska), see World Luxury Cruises.  The 2012/2013 Hawaii cruises are scheduled to include a stop at Molokai.

About the author:
Tom Koppel is a veteran Canadian author, journalist and travel writer who has contributed travel features to numerous newspapers and magazines for over 25 years, including the LA Times, Chicago Tribune, Dallas Morning News, Columbus Dispatch, Georgia Straight, Globe & Mail, National Post, Islands Magazine, Sydney Morning Herald and Canadian World Traveller magazine. He recently completed his fifth book of popular nonfiction, about the South Pacific islands.

All photos are by Annie Palovcik.

by Troy Herrick

Tropical Hawaii conjures up images of warm temperatures, sandy beaches, palm trees, hula dancers and … freshly-brewed Kona coffee. The latter is certainly one of my fondest memories of the islands. I reserve this treat for weekend and holiday consumption only as I can relax and appreciate the rich, smooth, satisfying flavor that it provides.

Coffee is not native to Hawaii. The British brought the first seeds to the islands in the 19th century and sparked a whole new industry. Now some of the finest gourmet coffee in the world is produced on the South Kona Coast of the Big Island. These 66 square miles of coast constitute an appellation – only coffee grown within these bounds may be legally designated as Kona coffee.

The leeward side of the Mauna Loa volcano creates a special microclimate suitable for coffee production. The sunny mornings and rainy afternoons generate a “coffee cloud” that shades this mountain slope during the late afternoon. Both the coffee cloud and the rich volcanic soil impart a unique taste and aroma to the Arabica coffee beans grown here.

Many Kona coffee brands are sold in Hawaii. Most of these are blends however. Those wishing to enjoy 100% Kona coffee should read the labels carefully to eliminate the blends. Compare the taste of 100% Kona coffee to the blend just once and you’ll understand why there is simply no comparison between the two.

Approximately 800 coffee plantations operate on the Big Island. Most are no larger than three acres in size. Of these, only four are open to the public: Greenwell Farms, Bayview Coffee Farm, the Ueshima Coffee Company and the Royal Kona Museum and Coffee Mill. Each provides you with an opportunity to taste 100% Kona coffee.

Greenwell Farms provides the best free tour of any commercial coffee farm. Visitors should find that this tour is sufficient for learning all about coffee cultivation and processing. Tour guide George Wakefield-Rae, outlines the processing and equipment used for processing the coffee beans. Steps include: harvesting the ripe coffee cherries, removing the beans from inside the coffee cherries, washing the beans, removing the mucilage coating from the beans, drying the beans on a drying deck or in a tumble dryer, removing a membranous coating from the dried beans, grading the beans and roasting the beans.

After the tour, visitors are invited to sample light and dark roasted versions of both premium grades known as Extra Fancy and Peaberry. Peaberry beans are an anomaly in that they are plump, single oval beans. Regular coffee beans have two halves with matching flat sides. While this difference seems insignificant, the impact on taste is profound. Peaberry beans have a milder, fruitier taste combined with lower caffeine and higher oil content than regular coffee. I enjoyed the Peaberry so much that I purchased a one pound bag of the lightly roasted beans. The taste was fruity and full-bodied.

Bayview Farm produces my long-time favourite Kona coffee. I have been purchasing the dark roasted Extra Fancy coffee beans by mail order since 1999. This day I bought a 5 pound bag. This coffee is tangy with just a hint of spice and great depth of flavor. Savor a cup as you take a moment to admire the view of the bay below. In the distance you see the Captain Cook Monument on the water.

The Ueshima Coffee Company offers a personalized hands-on roasting tour. Visitors can process their own half-pound bag of coffee beans and then apply a customized label to the product. Those not touring may sample the different Ueshima coffees in the company store.

The Royal Kona Museum and Coffee Mill offers a free self-guided tour and coffee tasting. The museum displays some older coffee processing equipment and details the history of the Kona coffee industry. Visitors can also see operational coffee processing equipment down the hill behind the museum store. While you are there, take the opportunity to walk through the 500 year old lava tube near the drying docks.

Before returning to your car, climb the steps up to the turquoise “tree house” near at the parking lot for a beautiful view of the area. The lush vegetation below the coffee museum slopes gently to the sea over a mile away.

The nearby Kona Historical Society’s Kona Coffee Living History Farm provides an unusual tour through an early 20th century coffee farm, owned and operated by a traditional Japanese family. A male guide outlines the early farming methods and equipment employed to cultivate and harvest coffee beans. Later, visitors are taken through the farm house by a kimono-clad female tour guide. Here they gain insight into how this family made use of its limited resources. Coffee farming was not a lucrative endeavor so the family was forced to make clothing from used coffee bean sacks. After touring the farm house, take some time to taste some different coffee types.

Getting the Most Out of Your Kona Coffee Purchase

Those wishing to explore the finer points of coffee tasting would benefit by reviewing the steps in detail at www.wholelattelove.com. Remember the three “S”es: slurp, swirl and swallow.

If you do purchase some Kona coffee, George Wakefield-Rae provides the following advice for proper storage. Freshly roasted coffee should be consumed within the first 3 weeks of purchase so as to enjoy the freshest taste. Coffee beans are best stored in airtight containers with no exposure to light, moisture or freezing temperatures. Freezing the beans breaks down the oils but preserves the caffeine.

What was my first thought upon hearing George’s comment about coffee storage? Just this. With six pounds of coffee beans, I will be drinking as much Kona coffee as I possibly can in the next few weeks – and enjoying every minute of it. Finally, no coffee beans were harmed in preparing this article. However after completion, that is a different story.

Kona Tour: Coffee Plantation, Kealakekua Bay, Kaloko-Honokohau Park and Bee Farm

If You Go:

Kailua-Kona is the best base for your Kona coffee. With careful planning and coordination, all four coffee farms may be visited in a single day as part of a scenic drive south from Kailua-Kona. A rental car is the most practical mode of transportation.

Greenwell Farms
81-6581 Mamalahua Hwy
Kealakekua Hawaii
96750
wwww.greenwellfarms.com

Bayview Coffee Farm
Painted Church Road, approximately 0.4 miles north of the Painted Church
www.bayviewfarmcoffees.com

Ueshima Coffee Company (UCC)
82-5810 Napo’opo’oo Rd in Captain Cook
www.ucc-hawaii.com

Royal Kona Museum and Coffee Mill
83-5427, Mamalahoa Hwy, Captain Cook

Kona Historical Society’s Kona Coffee Living History Farm
82-6199 Mamalahoa Hwy, Kealakekua
Tour: $20 per person
www.konahistorical.org

About the author:
Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travel Thru History Magazines. He also penned the travel planning e-book entitled ”Turn Your Dream Vacation into Reality: A Game Plan for Seeing the World the Way You Want to See It” – www.thebudgettravelstore.com/page/76972202 based on his own travel experiences over the years. Plan your vacation at his www.thebudgettravelstore.com and www.plan-a-dream-trip.com sites.

Photo Credits:
All photos by Diane Gagnon. A freelance photographer, Diane has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travel Thru History Magazines.