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Soaring Over Paradise

glider airplane in Honolulu

Glider Flying in Honolulu, Hawaii

by Larry Zaletel

I watch as the black Mercedes slowly begins to move down the blacktop runway. As the driver shifts through the gears the car quickly gains speed and the attached towrope begins to tighten. The glider slowly starts to lift off from. Catching the updrafts the pilot continues to take advantage of the air currents and rises out of the valley. The plane climbs higher and higher into the air where, nestled in the valley below lays the city of Erlangen, Germany. I can barely see the aircraft after a while as it is soon almost out of sight. For a long time I stand there in amazement my eyes transfixed on the sight.

I have watched gliders in movies before, but not up close. That was the first time that I had seen them. I happened to walk over to the flight line that Saturday after learning about the gliders from one of my Army buddies. I watched as they went about their work with a cool determination. There was more that one glider being readied. I remember that it was a partly cloudy day, the sun occasionally peaking out of the clouds.

Later I learned that this was a frequent occurrence. Every Saturday afternoon weather permitting, the German civilians came to the airfield located just outside of the American Army base to fly their gliders. I would stand there and observe them drive on to the airfield with their gliders and then watch as they would unload their equipment and prepare everything in order to launch. The air above the little valley provided the necessary current for them to spend the afternoon soaring in and out of the clouds. They sailed on the thermals through silence on gossamer like wings. Someday I vowed to do this.

glider plane landing on runwayThe thought stayed with me over the years. The idea of flying in a glider fascinated me but though opportunities came and went, I never took advantage of them. Finally when the opportunity became available I couldn’t miss the chance.

Honolulu Soaring is located at Dillingham Air Field in Mokuleia on the island of Oahu’s Hawaii North Shore. Close to Haleiwa town they have offered piloted gliding services since 1970. Dillingham Airfield was used extensively during World War II along with Haleiwa Field which was an unpaved emergency landing strip. I learned about Honolulu Soaring from an article I read in a guide book. The article intrigued me as it stated that they offer panoramic views of Oahu.

I didn’t know that a glider doesn’t need wind to fly. A glider just needs air flowing over its wings. It’s the pull of gravity that keeps the air flowing over the wings. When a glider flies through rising air, it climbs and vice versa.

The name of our orange and yellow glider is the Bird of Paradise. I briefly take a quick look inside of the glider. There are two seats one in front of the other, the control stick, and the pilot’s instruments. I climb into the plane’s cockpit followed by the pilot and we fasten our safety harnesses. My lanky legs straddle the underside of the pilot’s seat and the pilot instructs me not to touch the control rods of the ailerons, rudder and elevator mechanisms with my feet. Each has a specific mission.

The ailerons are the movable sections cut into the trailing edges of the wing or back of the wings. These are used as the primary directional control and they accomplish this by controlling the roll of the plane (tilting the wing tips up and down).

view of shoreline from soaring gliderThe rudder or vertical stabilizer is the vertical wing-like structure on the tail and turns the airplane. It is used to control the yaw of the aircraft by allowing the pilot to point the nose of the plane left or right.

The elevator or horizontal stabilizer is the movable horizontal wing-like structure also located on the tail. It controls the pitch of the plane, allowing the pilot to point the nose of the plane up or down.

It is a cozy fit although surprisingly it is not as tight as I would have thought in the two man cockpit and I am able to fit my 6.1 foot frame in comfortably. The pilot checks his instruments (altimeter, compass, and airspeed indicator), closes the Plexiglas canopy and glances around the cockpit doing a quick security check.

The pilot in the tow plane performs a short circle in front of us to check that are no other objects (airplanes, skydivers etc) in the flight path. He then starts down the runway picking up speed. As the towrope tightens I feel a slight bump and movement in the plane. The air current begins to lift us after we travel only a few feet and the glider begins to rise into the air. Surprisingly my stomach remains calm. The tow plane revs its engine more and we edge higher and higher into the air, turning back and forth. The view of the lush green valley below becomes clear and larger and larger under us. “My goodness what I feeling!” I think.

I take a few deep breaths, relaxing my stomach muscles and view the panoramic seen around me. I glance around the valley below looking for interesting photo opportunities. I snap a few photographs hoping that the glint from the sunlight bouncing off the Plexiglas cockpit will not interfere with the clarity of my shots. Hopefully we will see.

view of tow plane from gliderSoon I notice that the tow plane is loosing the tow rope and we are on our own. Suddenly it becomes so quiet, I can just about hear my heart beat. The rush of the incoming air into the compartment from the vent is the only noise I hear. It is like being up in the air with just you and God. I had always thought that it would be this way.

I have an incredible view of Oahu’s North Shore, the lush Waianae Mountains with their rugged cliffs laced with trails. I strain to look but I can’t see Pearl Harbor, the interior of Oahu, Diamond Head or Honolulu. Below me is the blue Pacific Ocean, with coral reefs and breaking waves. Someone once told me that the experience of soaring in a glider is about as close as you can get to flying like a bird, now I believe them. Spending time about 3000 feet over the lush landscape of Hawaii gives me a different perspective.

A glider can stay airborne indefinitely as long as it flies in updrafts. An updraft or thermals provide lift that can carry a glider higher and longer. Thermals are columns of rising air created by the uneven heating of the Earth’s surface from solar radiation. Thermals are also found in roadways and cities where the heat warms the ground and the air above it. Pilots also often tap into the winds deflected from mountain ridges or cliffs. By using these methods a glider pilot can remain airborne for hours. This is known as soaring. By finding and using lift sufficiently pilots can fly cross country and remain in the air all day.

We catch the thermals as we fly over the green valley toward the mountains. In the distance on the side of the mountain I see large white objects and as we fly closer I can make out a windmill farm of over 23 windmills. Turning 180 degrees we head toward the Pacific Ocean with its various shades of blue, the waves lapping at the shoreline. We pass over the airfield and I can see a sandy beach all along the coastline and below are pineapple farms and harvested fields plowed and ready for a new crop.

The pilot suddenly performs a sharp turn and we begin to descend to the airfield. We skim over the trees and come closer and closer to the earth. I can barely feel the ground as the singular wheel touches down gently on the runway and we roll a few feet and slow finally to a stop. It is finished. What an exciting way to spend thirty minutes flying in the clouds, something I’d wanted to do since the time when I had observed my first glider flight many years ago in Germany.


1-Hour Seaplane Adventure from Honolulu

If You Go:

♦ There are a variety of direct and indirect flights of airlines and prices to Honolulu, Hawaii.
♦ There are also a variety of Hotels and condos to choose from.
♦ My favorite restaurant in Honolulu is Jimmy Buffett’s Beachcomber, 2300 Kalakaua Avenue, Honolulu, HI 96815. [IT CLOSED IN 2016 – ED]
♦ Honolulu Soaring or 808-637-0207


Private 2-Hour Surfing Lesson in Honolulu

About the author:
Larry Zaletel is a freelance travel writer, an avid and dedicated traveler, and recurring visitor to Europe, the Caribbean, and the Far East. He writes about the various people that he has met and places that he has visited during his travels.

Photos by Larry Zaletel:
Thumbs-up landing
Touchdown just as we landed
Soaring over Dillingham Airfield and the Pacific Ocean
Our tow plane

Tagged With: Hawaii travel, Honolulu attractions Filed Under: Oceania Travel

Maui, Hawaii: A Hui Hou – ‘Til We Meet Again

Maui shoreline

by Denise Rogers

It used to be a shorter trip or so it seemed — having a meal served then watching a movie — six hours passed quickly. Now it feels like an interminable amount of time.

road on MauiIs it worth it? Oh yes. We land, retrieve our luggage and walk out into the sunshine. The Trade winds are blowing; those wonderful, gentle breezes that caress the palm trees and carry the scent of plumeria, just one of the many flowers that grow in the Islands. I can feel my body letting go of all the stressors. We are back on Maui.

Our time is spent doing absolutely nothing. No agendas, no schedules and no appointments. We wake up to the sound of tropical birds coo-cooing, eat our breakfast which always includes sweet, yellow papaya, go for a walk either through the magnificent Norfolk pines or along the ocean, return to our condo, maybe read, have lunch on the lanai, drive into Lahaina to shop for dinner, perhaps rent a movie then go to bed. We do the same thing pretty much every day in what we call “Paradise”. There are no nasty bugs and dangerous critters in Hawaii. We also like being in the good old US of A in case we need medical attention.

Maui farm fieldsOne of the highlights of our trip is driving to upcountry Maui on the slopes of the now dormant volcano, Haleakala. Every time we make the trip it feels like a new adventure. We are never bored by the scenery – the sugar cane and pineapple fields, the red earth, the rows of hibiscus and the sea below where earlier we had just squished the wet sand between our toes.

Our destination is the Kaluanui Estate – a former sugar plantation and home built by the Baldwins, one of the missionary families. Here Ethel Baldwin invited friends to come and create art. The estate is now the Hui No’eau, a Visual Arts Center and Gallery.

Maui has become our second home and just like Bali Hai in the musical “South Pacific,” it “whispers in the wind of the sea, here am I, your special island. Come to me, come to me.” A hui hou.

If You Go:

♦ There are non-stop flights from Vancouver to Maui return via West Jet or Air Canada. You could also fly out of Bellingham, WA.

♦ Accommodations vary from hotels to condos depending on your needs. We prefer the north west side of the Island, Napili. Kaanapali is just next door then a short drive takes you to the old whaling town, Lahaina. If you want a more arid, desert experience then stay at the south end in Wailea or Kihei. Check the website: www.gohawaii.com/maui

Maui Tours Now Available:
West Maui Whale Watching and Snorkeling Excursion
Full-Day Maui Tour: Road to Hana Tour
Myths of Maui Luau Dinner and a Show

Maui Day Trip: Haleakala, Iao Valley, Old Lahaina from Oahu

 

About the author:
Denise Rogers’ background is in training and development and adult education. She edited professional journals, company newsletters, designed training manuals and contributed to a column in the Burnaby NewsLeader. While creating art with children in various programs for the City of Burnaby, she was inspired to write and publish her first picture book; Today is the Day to Run Away. See: www.bigtoepublishing.com

Photo credits:
All photographs are by Denise Rogers.

 

Tagged With: Hawaii travel, Maui attractions Filed Under: Oceania Travel

Hawaii: Kaua’i’s Chicken Run

chickens on Kaua'i

by Teresa Adamowski

Most people know Kaua’i as the Garden Isle. On a recent visit to the oldest Island in Hawaii’s archipelago, I was surprised to learn of Kauai’s other claim to fame.

Kaua'i beachMy first image of Kaua’i is from high above on the final approach to the Island. The vibrant red earth is a stark contrast to the intense cerulean ocean. The dirt is red due to the fact that the high iron content of the volcanic soils has had plenty of time to oxidize, especially with the wet conditions of the island. Incidentally, Kaua’i is the rainiest place on Earth.

As I step onto the sizzling tarmac, the air is still and stifling hot. The sun’s rays are tenacious and it is a relief to fling myself into the air conditioned van that will take me to my final destination approximately one hour North of Lihue Airport.

It’s not evident upon first glance, however as my taxi journeys over the bumpy and winding road Northward, I notice a copious cluster of chickens and roosters happily foraging the immaculate beachfront. It strikes me as odd to see so many chickens wandering freely, so I ask the cab driver for an explanation. He smiles and shares with me a fascinating story of Hawaii’s very recent history.

“When Hurricane Iniki hit the Island in 1992, the powerful storm destroyed many large chicken farms and the feathered inhabitants fled to all corners of the Island”.

He went on to explain that as Kaua’i encompasses dense vegetation, massive waterfalls, canyons and vast areas that are only accessible by air or water, the chickens were able to escape detection for many years. Since then, they have thrived in this tropical paradise and the lush Island has been overrun by a large and growing feral chicken population.

suite at Princeville Resorts“I don’t eat the chickens myself, but my wife’s family are always chasing them things,” The cab driver chuckles. “Her family’s a bit crazy,” he adds in a hushed tone.

The status of the Kaua’i chickens and roosters becomes more evident as I settle into my suite at the Princeville Westin Resorts on the North Shore.

I am awakened by loud crowing at the crack of dawn and the whole clan joins me by the infinity pool where they peck at the stray handouts willingly offered by curious tourists, who snap photos to commemorate the moment.

Kaua'i waterfront shorelineThe concierge at the Resort offers an alternate explanation to the recent chicken explosion. During the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, sugarcane plantation labourers imported and raised the chickens for eating and as a form of entertainment (“cockfighting”). Over the years, some of the chickens got loose and formed the wild clan. He concurs that the massive hurricanes certainly contributed to the over abundance of chickens.

Curious to test my theory that there must be a place on the Island without “free-range” chickens, I embark on a day trip to Tunnel’s Beach, which is a favourite haunt for snorkelers and swimmers due to the generous cove that is protected by a coral reef. I enjoy a scenic drive to the North West corner of the Island, along the rural twisting seaside roadway. Around each corner I strain to catch a glimpse of the most perfect uninhabited white sand beaches through the bushy over growth. I stop along the way to witness the enormous surf crash onto the shore with a thunderous clap.

chickens in yard on Kaua'iAs if this display of ferocity is not enough to deter swimmers, there are many notices warning of dangerous tidal conditions. At the end of the road, I arrive at a secluded, romantic beach teeming with tourists, locals and yes, more chickens.

After a week of exploring the natural wonders of Kaua’i, I no longer think of wild chickens on the beach as strange. Somehow they have grown on me and add to the quirky but friendly ambience of the Island. I imagine the Kauaians are no doubt thankful for the boost to their local economy. A visit to any gift shop on the Island reveals numerous chicken themed souvenirs and surprisingly the quantity and selection surpasses the availability of local sea turtle merchandise. The Kaua’i chicken is here to stay as the unofficial and unusual mascot of the Garden Isle.


Kauai Luau and Sunset Dinner

If You Go:

♦ Don’t be deterred by Kauai’s claim as the rainiest place on Earth. When it does rain it does not last long and dries very quickly due to year round tropical temperatures.
♦ Rent a car in Lihue airport or in the City as it can be very pricey to take a cab across the Island (e.g. $100 U.S.D. + tip from Lihue to Princeville).
♦ Bring with you a sense of adventure. There are many activities to enjoy while you visit Kaua’i, including helicopter tours, hiking in Waimea Canyon, surfing, snorkeling, kayaking and sailing to name a few.
♦ The locals are especially friendly and are a great source of information and advice.

 

About the author:
Teresa Adamowski is a writer who is very physically active and creative. In her spare time, she enjoys running, drawing, and hiking. Recently she suffered a setback in her half marathon training and has found solace in writing She loves to travel and explore new cities, however has found a special connection with the Islands of Hawaii and plans to return very soon. Publications: viewer.zmags.com/publication/4dba4be2#/4dba4be2/58

All photographs are by Teresa Adamowski.

Tagged With: Hawaii travel, Kauai attractions Filed Under: Oceania Travel

Hawaii’s Outer Shores

Hawaiian sailing canoe

Mau’i and Moloka’i

by Tom Koppel

The wind off Maui’s northwestern coast picks up, creating short, choppy waves that slop over the sides of the traditional Hawaiian canoe and into our faces. But the tropical sea is blissfully warm. Though wet and wild, it is an exciting ride as Captain Timmy Gilliom shouts out orders to his crew of agile sailors and brings the boat about for a fast downwind run. I admire the canoe’s refined construction. Not a nail, bolt or other piece of metal is to be seen. The twin dugout hulls are connected by cross-pieces of rare koa wood. All the wood is so perfectly lashed together with rope that nothing squeaks or groans even under great stress. The outing gives our small group of visitors a tantalizing taste of what the early Polynesians experienced as they traversed vast distances in open boats.

Another day, Gilliom shows us the larger voyaging canoe that he and a small non-profit group are nearly finished building at a boat shed in Lahaina. It is crafted largely of modern materials, such as fibreglass and epoxy, and the sails are fastened on metal tracks. “You’ve got to go with the times,” says Gilliom, who has skippered the famous canoe Hokule’a on cruises as far as Easter Island that re-enact the ancient journeys of his ancestors. In the distance is unpopulated Kahoolawe, identified by scientists as the source of basalt for stone tools found on an atoll near far-away Tahiti.

coconut palm treeMy wife Annie and I are immersing ourselves in the history and culture of Hawaii’s less crowded “outer” shores, far from the lights and traffic of Waikiki. It is like opening a Russian doll, so many hidden dimensions are revealed. We keep getting vivid glimpses of long-vanished ways of life. It is a rich, diverse and sometimes shocking tableau, full of extreme contrasts. On the one hand, there is the fondly imagined paradise of dramatic geography, a sultry climate and beautiful native people. On the other, a history of brutal warfare and the oppressive traditional social system, in which commoners might be killed for stepping on the king’s shadow. On the Big Island, however, people were safe if they reached sanctuary within the walls and temples of the City of Refuge, now painstakingly restored.

Centuries of ecological destruction and extinctions have left their mark. All the main edible plants—taro, yam and coconut, papaya, banana and citrus fruits—were introduced by the colonizing Polynesians. Primordial forests were slashed, burned and terraced for agriculture. Native birds were decimated by land clearing or by the rats that came as hitchhikers on the canoes. No Hawaiian landscape resembles what existed a thousand years ago.

surf boardAlso surprising is how rapidly Hawaii changed after Captain Cook arrived in 1778. By the 1820s, Lahaina was a bustling center for whalers and missionaries, with grog shops and churches, brothels and hotels. That was fully two decades before the Gold Rush led to the growth of San Francisco. In fact, Lahaina had America’s first high school west of the Mississippi. Since then, entire industries, such as pineapple cultivation, have come and gone, vanishing almost entirely. Great forests of koa and sandalwood were pillaged for export. Where fields of sugar cane flourished until quite recently, there are now virtual ghost towns and abandoned mills.

Even such iconic pastimes as surfing have undergone change. We begin our sojourn at the home of old friends, Charley and Lisa Erck, on the Big Island. A fine woodworker, Charley custom-builds a seldom-seen style of hollow surfboard designed by a famous 1930s surfer, Tom Blake. These are truly works of art, but Charley loves to show them off in real waves. They drive us down to the beach at spectacular Waipio Valley, fringed by thousand-foot cliffs and irrigated by Hawaii’s tallest waterfall. Waipio, once densely populated, was the early domain of a chief who eventually united the islands by force and became King Kamehameha. From a lookout above, we see tidy plots of taro, a mainstay in the old Hawaiian diet. A tsunami in 1946 destroyed most of the houses and cultivated lands, but a few dozen homesteaders gradually returned. While Charley surfs and Lisa swims, we kayak back a century in time, up the little river past funky homesteads and grazing wild horses.

pod of dolphins swimmingThen, we join a cruise that starts at the Big Island and ends on Maui. Carrying around 30 passengers, the Safari Explorer is a small but deluxe ship. At Mauna Lani resort, where our group assembles, we marvel at sophisticated ancient fish ponds that provided a fine and predictable catch for the chiefly elite. Nearby are mysterious petroglyphs etched with strange human and animal figures, and cave-like lava tubes, where people used to find shelter. One side trip takes us to a seaside heiau, a huge temple platform of black lava rocks built for Kamehameha. Its dedication required a human sacrifice, so his cousin (and rival) was slain. On the shore below was a separate temple, where victims were fed to the sharks.

Our ship is well-equipped for seeking out marine wildlife. We snorkel among brilliantly colored reef fishes and the graceful green sea turtles that have long been revered throughout Polynesia. Large pods of spinner, spotted and bottlenose dolphins surround us several times, weaving back and forth, twisting in the air, and cavorting in our bow wave. Humpback whales blow and leap halfway into the sky. One night, we float in wetsuits while powerful spotlights illuminate the depths. The lights attract dense plankton and the huge manta rays that feed on it. We watch, transfixed, as these gentle giants swoop by gracefully just below us, ghostly creatures with gaping mouths and wings fifteen feet across.

pineapple growing in fieldOther evenings, special guests come on board. A hula troupe gives a performance that is nothing like what tourists experience at most resorts and commercial luaus. The lead dancers are men. They do aggressive, warlike steps, much like the Maori haka in New Zealand, rather than gentle, flowing ones. The moves are accompanied by chanting and drumming. There is not a ukelele or guitar in sight. We join them in drinking awa, a mildly narcotic ceremonial potion known elsewhere in the Pacific as kava. Another night, we meet Lawrence Aki, a hulk of a man who exudes quiet dignity, and his young disciple Kawika. Lawrence is a kumu (teacher) from a remote valley on Molokai. Kawika has lived with him for five years, helping at first in the taro patch and learning the old ways. This includes speaking the Hawaiian language and reciting genealogies. “It’s a lifetime commitment,” Lawrence says.

We anchor and go ashore at sparsely populated Lanai, once the exclusive company realm of Dole fruit. A high plateau in the island’s center had pineapple fields stretching for miles. Today, it’s cheaper to grow them in the Philippines. We hike through an exotic tropical forest to a high lookout. The waters of the lush valley below once irrigated the pineapples. Big horned moufflon sheep graze on a hilltop. A gorgeous lodge with a world class golf course stands where workers at a cattle ranch used to live. In tiny Lanai City, contending lawn signs debate the economic benefits and environmental impacts of installing giant wind turbines to generate electricity for Honolulu.

On Maui, small buses take us up through cooler elevations and ranch land to the 10,023 foot summit of Haleakala for a blazing sunset. Legend says the volcano was created by the wandering fire goddess, Pele. Women used to place placentas atop the peak to ensure long and healthy lives for their children. Now it houses an array of telescopes, one so powerful it was used to inspect damaged tiles on the space shuttles.

humpback whale leapingThe final morning, a humpback leaps in the distance. It is a fitting sendoff. We have an entire afternoon to enjoy before a midnight flight home, and we have decided to visit a small museum about Pacific whaling. It features the old tools and equipment and the many products produced from an estimated 292,000 great cetaceans killed by the American fleet alone between 1825 and 1872. Fortunately, the humpbacks have made a remarkable recovery in recent years, from a low of around 1,000 in the 1960s to 20,000 or more today. On display outside is the impressive skeleton of a 40-foot sperm whale.

Our last evening in Lahaina, before facing airport security and other 21st century pleasures, we dine in a seaside restaurant, where the tiki torches are lit at dusk. We hang out in the quiet courtyard of the venerable wooden Pioneer Inn. And we stroll under a vast multi-trunked banyan tree, decorated with Christmas lights, that covers an entire city block. Growing for well over a century next to the old harborfront courthouse, it has been a silent witness to all the swirling tides of Hawaiian life.

 

If You Go:

For the Hawaiian winter cruises of Safari Explorer (or its summer cruises in Alaska), see World Luxury Cruises.  The 2012/2013 Hawaii cruises are scheduled to include a stop at Molokai.

About the author:
Tom Koppel is a veteran Canadian author, journalist and travel writer who has contributed travel features to numerous newspapers and magazines for over 25 years, including the LA Times, Chicago Tribune, Dallas Morning News, Columbus Dispatch, Georgia Straight, Globe & Mail, National Post, Islands Magazine, Sydney Morning Herald and Canadian World Traveller magazine. He recently completed his fifth book of popular nonfiction, about the South Pacific islands.

All photos are by Annie Palovcik.

Tagged With: Hawaii travel, Maui attractions Filed Under: Oceania Travel

Hawaii: The Quest For Kona Coffee

Kona coffee grower

by Troy Herrick

Tropical Hawaii conjures up images of warm temperatures, sandy beaches, palm trees, hula dancers and … freshly-brewed Kona coffee. The latter is certainly one of my fondest memories of the islands. I reserve this treat for weekend and holiday consumption only as I can relax and appreciate the rich, smooth, satisfying flavor that it provides.

Coffee is not native to Hawaii. The British brought the first seeds to the islands in the 19th century and sparked a whole new industry. Now some of the finest gourmet coffee in the world is produced on the South Kona Coast of the Big Island. These 66 square miles of coast constitute an appellation – only coffee grown within these bounds may be legally designated as Kona coffee.

The leeward side of the Mauna Loa volcano creates a special microclimate suitable for coffee production. The sunny mornings and rainy afternoons generate a “coffee cloud” that shades this mountain slope during the late afternoon. Both the coffee cloud and the rich volcanic soil impart a unique taste and aroma to the Arabica coffee beans grown here.

coffee history demonstrationMany Kona coffee brands are sold in Hawaii. Most of these are blends however. Those wishing to enjoy 100% Kona coffee should read the labels carefully to eliminate the blends. Compare the taste of 100% Kona coffee to the blend just once and you’ll understand why there is simply no comparison between the two.

Approximately 800 coffee plantations operate on the Big Island. Most are no larger than three acres in size. Of these, only four are open to the public: Greenwell Farms, Bayview Coffee Farm, the Ueshima Coffee Company and the Royal Kona Museum and Coffee Mill. Each provides you with an opportunity to taste 100% Kona coffee.

Greenwell Farms provides the best free tour of any commercial coffee farm. Visitors should find that this tour is sufficient for learning all about coffee cultivation and processing. Tour guide George Wakefield-Rae, outlines the processing and equipment used for processing the coffee beans. Steps include: harvesting the ripe coffee cherries, removing the beans from inside the coffee cherries, washing the beans, removing the mucilage coating from the beans, drying the beans on a drying deck or in a tumble dryer, removing a membranous coating from the dried beans, grading the beans and roasting the beans.

coffee roasting plantAfter the tour, visitors are invited to sample light and dark roasted versions of both premium grades known as Extra Fancy and Peaberry. Peaberry beans are an anomaly in that they are plump, single oval beans. Regular coffee beans have two halves with matching flat sides. While this difference seems insignificant, the impact on taste is profound. Peaberry beans have a milder, fruitier taste combined with lower caffeine and higher oil content than regular coffee. I enjoyed the Peaberry so much that I purchased a one pound bag of the lightly roasted beans. The taste was fruity and full-bodied.

Bayview Farm produces my long-time favourite Kona coffee. I have been purchasing the dark roasted Extra Fancy coffee beans by mail order since 1999. This day I bought a 5 pound bag. This coffee is tangy with just a hint of spice and great depth of flavor. Savor a cup as you take a moment to admire the view of the bay below. In the distance you see the Captain Cook Monument on the water.

Kona coffee shopThe Ueshima Coffee Company offers a personalized hands-on roasting tour. Visitors can process their own half-pound bag of coffee beans and then apply a customized label to the product. Those not touring may sample the different Ueshima coffees in the company store.

The Royal Kona Museum and Coffee Mill offers a free self-guided tour and coffee tasting. The museum displays some older coffee processing equipment and details the history of the Kona coffee industry. Visitors can also see operational coffee processing equipment down the hill behind the museum store. While you are there, take the opportunity to walk through the 500 year old lava tube near the drying docks.

Before returning to your car, climb the steps up to the turquoise “tree house” near at the parking lot for a beautiful view of the area. The lush vegetation below the coffee museum slopes gently to the sea over a mile away.

vintage coffee grindersThe nearby Kona Historical Society’s Kona Coffee Living History Farm provides an unusual tour through an early 20th century coffee farm, owned and operated by a traditional Japanese family. A male guide outlines the early farming methods and equipment employed to cultivate and harvest coffee beans. Later, visitors are taken through the farm house by a kimono-clad female tour guide. Here they gain insight into how this family made use of its limited resources. Coffee farming was not a lucrative endeavor so the family was forced to make clothing from used coffee bean sacks. After touring the farm house, take some time to taste some different coffee types.

Getting the Most Out of Your Kona Coffee Purchase

coffee plantation KonaThose wishing to explore the finer points of coffee tasting would benefit by reviewing the steps in detail at www.wholelattelove.com. Remember the three “S”es: slurp, swirl and swallow.

If you do purchase some Kona coffee, George Wakefield-Rae provides the following advice for proper storage. Freshly roasted coffee should be consumed within the first 3 weeks of purchase so as to enjoy the freshest taste. Coffee beans are best stored in airtight containers with no exposure to light, moisture or freezing temperatures. Freezing the beans breaks down the oils but preserves the caffeine.

What was my first thought upon hearing George’s comment about coffee storage? Just this. With six pounds of coffee beans, I will be drinking as much Kona coffee as I possibly can in the next few weeks – and enjoying every minute of it. Finally, no coffee beans were harmed in preparing this article. However after completion, that is a different story.


Kona Tour: Coffee Plantation, Kealakekua Bay, Kaloko-Honokohau Park and Bee Farm

If You Go:

Kailua-Kona is the best base for your Kona coffee. With careful planning and coordination, all four coffee farms may be visited in a single day as part of a scenic drive south from Kailua-Kona. A rental car is the most practical mode of transportation.

Greenwell Farms
81-6581 Mamalahua Hwy
Kealakekua Hawaii
96750
wwww.greenwellfarms.com

Bayview Coffee Farm
Painted Church Road, approximately 0.4 miles north of the Painted Church
www.bayviewfarmcoffees.com

Ueshima Coffee Company (UCC)
82-5810 Napo’opo’oo Rd in Captain Cook
www.ucc-hawaii.com

Royal Kona Museum and Coffee Mill
83-5427, Mamalahoa Hwy, Captain Cook

Kona Historical Society’s Kona Coffee Living History Farm
82-6199 Mamalahoa Hwy, Kealakekua
Tour: $20 per person
www.konahistorical.org

 

About the author:
Troy Herrick, a freelance travel writer, has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. His articles have appeared in Live Life Travel, International Living, Offbeat Travel and Travel Thru History Magazines. He also penned the travel planning e-book entitled ”Turn Your Dream Vacation into Reality: A Game Plan for Seeing the World the Way You Want to See It” – www.thebudgettravelstore.com/page/76972202 based on his own travel experiences over the years. Plan your vacation at his www.thebudgettravelstore.com and www.plan-a-dream-trip.com sites.

Photo Credits:
All photos by Diane Gagnon. A freelance photographer, Diane has traveled extensively in North America, the Caribbean, Europe and parts of South America. Her photographs have accompanied Troy Herrick’s articles in Live Life Travel, Offbeat Travel and Travel Thru History Magazines.

 

Tagged With: Hawaii travel, Kona attractions Filed Under: Oceania Travel

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