Rome blends centuries of history, artistic masterpieces, and the energy of everyday life into one unforgettable urban experience. Whether you’re visiting for the first time or returning to uncover more layers of its history, Rome promises a journey like no other. To help you fully enjoy the experience, this guide offers practical travel tips to make your trip smooth, enriching, and truly memorable.

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Before You Go: Smart Planning Makes a Difference

When to Visit:

Although Rome is worth visiting year-round, the months of April to May and September to October provide the ideal combination of mild weather and fewer tourists. You’ll enjoy milder weather, fewer crowds, and better prices than the high summer season. Summer (June to August) can be hot and crowded, while winter might bring rain but fewer tourists.

Book Your Stay Early:

Rome is a high-demand destination year-round. Booking your accommodation in advance, especially if you’re traveling during peak periods, ensures more options and better prices. Central neighborhoods like Trastevere, Monti, and the Pantheon area are excellent choices for easy access to landmarks and lively atmospheres.

Getting Around:

The city’s public transportation relies on a network of buses, trams, and metro lines that make getting around convenient and affordable. Consider a travel card for convenience. Taxis are available, and ride-hailing apps operate in most areas, although walking often offers the richest experience.

Entry and Documentation:

Before you travel, verify that your passport is up to date and review the visa rules that apply to citizens of your country.

A Few Italian Words Go a Long Way:

Even though English is commonly spoken in tourist spots, learning simple Italian greetings and expressions shows respect and can make interactions warmer. Start by learning a few simple Italian expressions such as “Buongiorno” (good morning), “Grazie” (thank you), and “Per favore” (please), which can help you communicate politely during your trip.

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8 Tips to explore the wonders for Sightseeing in Rome

Rome’s streets are filled with relics of past empires, world-famous art, and architectural marvels. Here are the tips that help you to know how to do up to a 5-day vacation in Rome:

Identify Your Priorities:

With so many iconic attractions—from the Colosseum and Vatican Museums to Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps—it’s essential to narrow down your must-see sites and plan your days accordingly. Avoid rushing and allow time to appreciate each location.

Book in Advance:

To avoid long queues at popular landmarks like the Vatican, Borghese Gallery, and Colosseum, reserve your tickets online before your trip. Many sites offer timed entries, which helps avoid wasting hours in line.

Consider a Guided Tour:

Joining a small group tour can provide valuable context and storytelling that bring ancient ruins and historical sites to life. Choose reputable operators who focus on depth rather than speed.

Footwear Matters:

Rome’s Cobblestone streets require sturdy, comfortable shoes. Expect a lot of walking—this is not the time for fashion-first footwear.

Stay Hydrated:

Throughout Rome, you’ll find public fountains called “nasoni” that offer safe, drinkable water for free. Carry a reusable water bottle so you can stay refreshed as you walk around the city.

Be Security Smart:

Keep personal belongings close, especially in busy areas. Use anti-theft bags, wear them across your body, and be discreet with cash and valuables.

Dress Modestly for Religious Sites:

When visiting churches such as St. Peter’s Basilica, it’s important to wear modest clothing that covers both shoulders and knees, in line with the site’s dress code.

Slow Down:

Rome isn’t a city to race through. Pause to enjoy a quiet pizza, sip coffee at a street-side café, or simply absorb the sounds and energy of daily Roman life.

Taste Your Way Through Rome: A Culinary Experience

Rome’s food scene is as much a part of its appeal as the monuments. f you want to dine the Roman way, keep these tips in mind:

Explore Neighborhood Flavors:

Each district offers a distinct culinary vibe. Trastevere is home to old-school Roman trattorias, Monti blends tradition with trendy flair, while Testaccio is beloved for its authentic cuisine and vibrant food market.

Try Roman Dishes:

Don’t leave without trying local favorites like:

• Carbonara: consists of eggs, guanciale, and cheese
• Amatriciana: pasta in tomato sauce with cured pork
• Supplì: crispy rice balls filled with mozzarella

Join the Aperitivo Tradition:

In the early evening, many locals enjoy a drink served with complimentary snacks. It’s a relaxing way to begin the night and sample different wines or cocktails.

Savor the Gelato:

Gelaterias are everywhere in Rome. Seek out artisanal spots, and don’t be afraid to ask for two or three flavors. Look for natural colors and creamy textures as signs of quality.

Ask for Local Wines:

The Lazio region offers excellent wines that pair beautifully with Roman cuisine. Ask your server for suggestions, it’s often the best way to discover hidden gems.

Avoid Tourist Traps:

Skip restaurants right next to major landmarks that display menus in multiple languages with inflated prices. Venture a few blocks away to find more authentic experiences.

Helpful Phrases:

Familiarizing yourself with a few Italian expressions such as “Un tavolo per due, per favore” (table for two) or “Il conto, per favore” (the bill, please) can make dining out smoother and more enjoyable.

Bonus Tips for a Smooth Rome Experience

• Carry Cash in Small Notes: While cards are widely accepted, having small bills is useful for markets, tips, and quick café stops.
• Expect Midday Closures: Smaller local shops may close for a few hours in the afternoon, especially in summer. Plan around this rhythm.
• Use Public Wi-Fi Wisely: Cafés and major squares often offer free Wi-Fi—ideal for checking directions or making quick bookings.
• Useful Apps: Download offline maps, transportation apps (like Moovit), a translation app, and a restaurant finder like TheFork for on-the-go support.
• Be Flexible: Some of Rome’s magic lies in the unexpected—hidden alleys, surprise concerts, or a quiet church with stunning frescoes.

Rome Will Stay with You

More than just a city, Rome is a feeling. With thoughtful preparation and these essential tips, you’ll be ready to explore its rich history, immerse yourself in local culture, and create memories that will last a lifetime.

Start your adventure, live the dolce vita, and let the Eternal City leave its mark on you.

Rome, commonly known as the “Eternal City,” is a mesmerizing location that effortlessly blends its extensive history with a lively contemporary way of life. The city’s renowned landmarks, ancient remnants, and artistic gems have attracted visitors globally for centuries. Opting for a self-directed exploration of Rome enables you to discover its marvels at a leisurely tempo, engaging in this enduring city’s enchantment. And, with a convenient wheeled laptop bag in tow, you can easily traverse the city, ensuring both style and practicality during your sightseeing adventure.

A Journey through the Colosseum’s Timeless Spectacles:

Commence your independent exploration at the Colosseum, a breathtaking emblem of the magnificence of Ancient Rome. This arena, which witnessed gladiatorial competitions and public extravaganzas, is a tribute to its era’s remarkable engineering achievements. Picture the lively spectacles that transpired within its colossal arches as you gaze upon this iconic structure.

The Roman Forum’s Time Capsule of Ancient Life:

Embark on a journey through the heart of ancient Roman civilization, steps away from the Colosseum. Explore the archaeological marvels of the Roman Forum, where temples, arches, and remnants of once-grand structures provide a captivating window into the past. Immerse yourself in the ruins of the Temple of Saturn, the Arch of Titus, and the Senate House, unveiling the complexities of daily life and governance in ancient Rome.

Journey to the Pantheon: An Architectural Marvel of Ancient Rome

Embark on a visit to the Pantheon, an extraordinary feat of ancient Roman engineering and a pinnacle of architectural harmony. The colossal dome, featuring a central oculus, orchestrates a mesmerizing interplay of light and shadow. Enter the Pantheon to immerse yourself in the celestial connection fostered by the dome and marvel at the artistic and engineering brilliance of the Roman era.

Palatine Hill: A Mythical Ascent to Imperial Grandeur:

Ascend Palatine Hill for sweeping vistas of the Roman Forum and the bustling cityscape below. Steeped in mythology and regarded as the birthplace of Rome, this legendary hill invites you to wander through the remnants of majestic imperial palaces and verdant gardens. Envision the opulence of Roman emperors as you stroll amidst the captivating ruins, connecting with the lavish lifestyles that once graced this historic hill.

Romantic Stroll to the Trevi Fountain: Unveiling Hidden Wonders

Navigate the cobblestone streets leading to the Trevi Fountain, a Baroque masterpiece radiating grandeur and romance. Participate in the tradition of tossing a coin over your left shoulder into the fountain for the promise of a return to Rome—Marvel at the intricate sculptures and the graceful flow of water, breathing life into this iconic landmark. While the Trevi Fountain remains one of Rome’s most renowned attractions, discover its hidden allure with an underground tour, offering access to the concealed tunnels beneath the fountain. Explore the fascinating depths of this timeless site, revealing a secret beneath its well-trodden surface.

Piazza Navona: A Baroque Tapestry of Fountains and Elegance

Make your way to Piazza Navona, a vibrant square adorned with fountains and graced by the magnificent Baroque Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. At the heart of the square lies Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, a masterful creation symbolizing the four major rivers of the world. Immerse yourself in the lively atmosphere as you appreciate the artistic richness and architectural splendor that define this picturesque gathering place.

Embarking on a Spiritual Odyssey: Vatican City’s Artistic Marvels

Commence your self-guided exploration at Vatican City, the world’s smallest independent state and the spiritual nucleus of Catholicism. Delve into the awe-inspiring St. Peter’s Basilica, a testament to architectural brilliance adorned with masterpieces like Michelangelo’s Pieta. Continue your journey to the Vatican Museums, where the iconic ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, painted by Michelangelo, awaits your admiration. Immerse yourself in the profound artistic and spiritual legacy that Vatican City unfolds.

Capitoline Hill Unveiled: Exploring History at the Capitoline Museums

Embark on a journey to Capitoline Hill, one of Rome’s fabled Seven Hills, and delve into the treasures in the Capitoline Museums. This cultural haven boasts an impressive collection of ancient sculptures, art, and artifacts, highlighted by the iconic statue of the Capitoline Wolf. Marvel at the Piazza del Campidoglio, a masterpiece by Michelangelo, provides a scenic perch to admire the city’s architecture and the historic Roman Forum. Immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of history at this iconic Roman destination.

Embarking on a self-guided exploration of Rome reveals the intricate layers of history, art, and culture that have intricately shaped this extraordinary city. From the awe-inspiring Colosseum to the spiritual center of Vatican City, every landmark unfolds a distinctive narrative eagerly waiting to be uncovered. While navigating ancient streets and modern boulevards, the resonance of Rome’s past and present can be felt, immersing you in the enchanting aura of the city through its timeless landmarks. Each destination on this expedition contributes to the rich tapestry of Rome’s history, encouraging you to embrace the city’s charm, marvel at its wonders, and be captivated by its enduring allure. And with a convenient wheeled laptop bag in tow, your journey is steeped in history and seamlessly blends practicality with the magical essence of Rome.

by Francesco Pandi

Who doesn’t know Rome? Who doesn’t know its most iconic landmarks? The Colosseum, the Vatican, the Pantheon, Piazza di Spagna and the Trevi Fountain are famous all over the world and are visited by millions of tourists all year long.

Nonetheless the capital of Italy has a few hidden gems to offer: unusual corners, often not widely known to Romans themselves. Quieter, more intimate places which will enrich your idea of the Eternal City.

Here is a careful and fun selection of the 14 most charming yet little known places in Rome:

1. Sciarra Gallery

Built in 1880 by prince Matteo Sciarra, it is the finest Art Nouveau building in Rome today. The Gallery is located in a side street of Via del Corso (the main street of the city) and almost manages to hide its beauty.

The leading role in the decorations is played by the Woman, portrayed in various scenes of daily life in her roles of bride, mother and “angel at the hearth”.

The upper layer shows more figures of women, representing the feminine virtues of fidelity, humility and justness. You’ll be left staring up at this jaw-dropping wonder for quite some time.

2. Magic Door

[TOP PHOTO] In Rome (the very capital of Christianity) you can find one of the few monuments in the world dedicated to medieval magic: the “Magic Door” is all that remains of the ancient Villa Palombara. The marquis of Pietraforte, an alchemy and esotericism enthusiast, had the villa built in the second half of the 17th century.

In origin the monument was one among five external entryways to the Villa.

Legend has it that a mysterious pilgrim, hosted in the marquis’ villa, tried to transmute various materials into gold.

One day he was seen disappearing through the door, leaving behind a speck of gold and some magic formulas, which are now engraved on the perimeter of the door.

3. Casina delle Civette

Between 1910 and 1925, at the height of the Art Nouveau artistic movement (known in Italy as Stile Liberty), a small group of artists turned an ancient chalet into the current Museo della Vetrata Liberty (Art Nouveau Stained Glass Museum).

Its peculiar shape, peaked roofs and its huge and colorful stained glasses confer to the place an almost magical atmosphere. Like a real life rendition of Hansel and Gretel’s house!

4. Casino Nobile

Only a short walk away from Casina delle Civette you can find the Casino Nobile, Mussolini’s residence between 1925 and 1943; he also had a gas-proof bunker and a bomb shelter be built here. Inside, beside the collection of statues, you can see the majestic ballroom, a beautiful garden and the wonderful terrace.

5. Biblioteca Angelica

Inaugurated in 1604, Biblioteca Angelica is the oldest public library in Italy and the second in Europe after Oxford. The library houses more than 200,000 volumes, with 2,700 ancient manuscripts dating from Greek and Latin times among them.

Its position makes it even more fascinating, as it is located in downtown Rome and it represents one of the few corners of calm and quiet in the popular and chaotic Italian capital.

6.  District Coppedè

District Coppedè is an amazing mixture of Art Nouveau and Art Deco with flashes of other art styles, such as Greek, Gothic, Baroque and even medieval. The district, built between 1913 and 1926, consists of 26 apartment houses and 17 villas and owes its name to its designer, Gino Coppedè.

In the center of the district is a small square in which stands the “Fountain of the Frogs” (“Fontana delle Rane”); the Beatles once dove fully dressed in the fountain after a concert held at the nearby disco Piper, making the monument famous worldwide.

7. Borghese gallery

Located inside Villa Borghese, the Romans’ favorite public park, it represents a true treasure chest, housing the collection of Cardinal Scipione Borghese. The man had the villa built in 1600 for this specific purpose.

The most famous works kept here are Lorenzo Bernini’s sculptures and Caravaggio’s masterpieces. Thanks to its position and its works of art it can be considered among the world’s finest museums.

NOTE: If you want enter the gallery we recommend you to book your visit about three months in advance.

8. The Catacombs of Rome

Experts deem the six Catacombs of Rome to be among the finest in the world; the best-known and most visited of them is the Catacomb of St. Callixtus, which stands out as the most beautiful and imposing. It represents the first burial site of early Christians and it houses the graves of the first sixteen popes and various saints.

9. The Jewish Ghetto

Built in 1555, the Jewish Ghetto of Rome is one of the oldest in the world. Strolling through the small streets of the district it will look like time has frozen in the ’40s: as a matter of fact the Ghetto holds its authenticity intact, despite the influence of mass tourism. The majestic Synagogue and the Portico of Octavia are landmarks of major importance to be found in the district.

10. The Janiculum

The Janiculum (Gianicolo) is one of the best observation points of Rome, with Monte Mario and the Pincian Hill (Pincio), offering a wonderful view over the roofs, ancient ruins and baroque cupolas of the city.

Fun fact: from 1847, as ordered by Pope Pius IX, a cannon fires blanks daily at midday sharp. In doing so the Pope wanted to set a standard for all the churches in Rome to ring their bells in unison.

11. The Japanese Garden

As odd as it may sound, in the center of Rome, the very cradle of Christianity and the heart of the western world, we can find a small Japanese garden designed by famous architect Ken Nakajima.

Regardless of its small area, the Garden contains all the elements of a traditional Japanese garden: a pond, a waterfall, rocks, small islands, a small bridge and the stone lantern called tōrō.

12. Roseto sull’Aventino

At the foot of the Aventine Hill (Aventino), one of the famous Seven Hills of Rome, lies one of the most romantic locations of the city: the Rose Garden. Already blessed by the beauty of nature and its position, granting a wonderful viewpoint over the Circo Massimo and the Palatine Hill at a safe distance from the city traffic, the Garden gets even more amazing in May, when 1100 species of roses blossom in a triumph of colors and fragrances. Such a wonderful place will leave you with your mouth wide open!

13. Little London

Inside one of the historic districts of Rome we can find a pleasant architectonic oddity: Little London. It consists of a pedestrian-only private street with the typical London-style small houses in bright colors, the same you’d expect to find in Notting Hill.

Mayor Ernesto Nathan, of English origin, fathered the idea of an “English” district in 1907. His intent was to build less expensive houses away from downtown in behalf of the common people. Nowadays, as one could easily expect, these houses have extremely high costs, exactly as in London.

14. Dolls’ Hospital

Walking through downtown Rome, near Piazza del Popolo, it is hard to miss the unique window of the ancient workshop Restauri Artistici Squatriti, also known as the Dolls’ Hospital.

The small workshop is crowded with heads, limbs and bodies of ancient dolls, waiting to be accurately “cured” by the expert artisans of the shop.

If You Go:

As you can see Rome is amazing, we tried to make a list of the 14 secret places but, if you go to Rome, I recommend you to wandering around and speak with the locals because every angle and every history is unique.

If you can’t go to Rome (or Sicily, New York, London etc. ) we can do that for you. We have created blinktravel.guide, a site (and an iphone app) through which you can discover the authentic spots of the most beautiful city in the world.

About the author:
Francesco Prandi is an Italian boy who loves traveling around many beautiful places in the word. He’s co-founder of Blink, an amazing app to make your travel an epic experience. He has an Instagram and a Facebook account where he shares the best Rome’s image.

Photo credits:
Piazza vittorio emanuele II, porta magica by Sailko / CC BY-SA
All other photos by Francesco Prandi

by Anne Harrison

By the time we left the hotel, it was already late afternoon, and our plane left at dawn. The buildings shimmered with a golden glow particular to Italian cities of stone and marble.

After fortifying ourselves with an espresso, we strolled to the stylish Via Veneto. Lively and fashionable back when Rome was ruled by the Caesars, just on a century ago this ancient quarter consisted of terraced gardens and vineyards. Then the Prince of Piombino sold part of his country estate to develop a luxurious neighbourhood of piazzas and palazzos. (The design proved so successful the Prince could no longer afford to live here.)

The Via Veneto opens onto the Piazza Barbarini. Here stand two of Bernini’s fountains; his first -The Triton – and The Fountain of the Bees. He designed the latter around the Barbarini’s family emblem, in deference to his patron, Pope Urban VIII.

From here, narrow streets wind to the top of the Spanish Steps.(On the Via Sistine is the convent Nostra Signora di Lourdes, one of the many throughout Italy to take paying guests.) At the top stands the Trinita De Monti, a twin-towered Gothic church built in 1495 by Charles VIII of France. As we arrived a bride and groom left to the accompaniment of peeling bells. The church contains two works by Daniele da Volterra, a pupil of Michelangelo, (who was later ordered by Pope Pius IV to paint clothes over the nude figures of the Sistine Chapel).

Immortalized by Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday, the Spanish Steps offer an unforgettable view across the roofline of Rome. Bronze domes glimmered under the setting sun; Keats looked onto them as he lay dying in a house in the Piazza di Spagna below.

At the bottom of the stairs is an unusual fountain, La Barcaccia. Designed by Bernini’s father, it resembles a leaking ship. Tradition holds he chose such a shape after the flooding of the Tiber on Christmas Day in 1958, which left a boat in the piazza. Pieces of travertine at either end of the fountain serve as stepping stones for anyone wishing to use the water; La Barcaccia is one of the many drinking fountains scattered across Rome.

The evening promenade filled the piazza, spilling into the Via Condotti with its lining of expensive boutiques. Yet despite the crowds, the nearby Via Margutta remained relatively empty. This street belongs to artists, and connoisseurs of art. A few small shops, unchanged in appearance for hundreds of years, simply but elegantly display a single old print or painting in their window.

After tossing a coin in the Trevi Fountain, our path wended towards the Tiber. Near the Ponte Cavour is one of the most significant monuments of Ancient Rome. Commissioned by the Senate in 13BC, the Ara Pacis Augustae (Altar of Augustus’ Peace) it is a three-dimensional record of 4th July, 43BC, when Augustus was given a hero’s parade after his victorious campaigns in Gaul and Spain. The Emperor can be seen leading the procession with his family and friends, with the next emperor, Tiberius, beside him.

Preserved under glass, this work is so exquisite some believe it executed by Greek artists. Drenched in spotlights, at night the Ara Pacis Augustae is more than a ghost of days long gone; it’s a dramatic reminder of the power and cultural achievements of Imperial Rome.

We crossed the Tiber on the Ponte Sant’ Angelo. Closed to traffic, this bridge is a quiet place to gaze over the city and river. Built by Hadrian in 134 AD, it connects the city to his future tomb, the Castel Sant’ Angelo. In the 17th century, Bernini adorned the bridge with ten ethereal angels who stand in a perpetual gale, their draperies tossed by a stone tempest.

The Leonine Wall runs along back streets from the Castel Sant Angelo to the Vatican, behind shops selling rosary beads and cardinals’ socks. These streets are often empty, as most tourist approach St Peter’s along the grand Via della Conciliazione. Like Florence’s Vasari Corridor, the Leonine Wall houses a secret passage which connects the Vatican to the Castel. More than one pontiff has beaten a hasty retreat along this ‘passageway of popes’.

By moonlight, St Peter’s Square has a magic magnified by the stillness. Even the pigeons have gone. Bernini likened the marble colonnade stretching around the square to the embracing arms of the mother church. The Basilica was closed, watched over by Swiss Guards in their colourful uniforms and long capes. Yet in a nearby building an open bronze door offered a glimpse of endless corridors, with a few officials strutting importantly past.

We crossed back over the Tiber near the Isola Tiberina. This boat-shaped island has been associated with healing for over 2000 years, having been dedicated to Aesculapius in 293BC. The islands hospital, run by The Brother’s of John of God, still administer to the needs of ill Romans.

Walking along the dimly lit Via del Gonfalone, the sound of clinking cutlery led us to an unmarked door. Inside, a fire blazed, and metre-thick walls of medieval brick supported a roof of exposed timber beams. A charming waiter deciphered the menu for us, stopping only at veal castrata. Perhaps it was the magic of the night which made this one of the best meals we had in Italy: Tuscan wine, antipasto, fresh bread, minestrone, veal staccota and lemon cakes.

Our route home took us past the only perfectly preserved ancient building in Rome. The Pantheon, in the Piazza della Rotonda, was designed by the Emperor Hadrian in 125AD. Hadrian made the unique design of a Roman dome on a circular base, in the form of a Greek temple, all in perfect proportion and symmetry. The dome is higher than St Peter’s, and its consecration in 609AD prevented the plundering which destroyed so much of Ancient Rome following the Empire’s protracted fall.

Next time I will return during a thunderstorm, when the rain splatters through the roof’s circular opening onto the marble floor, and lightening illuminates the tomb of Raphael.

The Piazza di Sant’ Eustachio is reached from the Pantheon via the narrow Via Palobella. This small piazza was filled with locals making a detour on the way home for Rome’s best coffee. The tiny Sant’ Eustachio Cafe was filled to overflowing, with people spilling out into the piazza with their coffees. By this time of night the coffee was served heavily laced with aniseed, giving it an almost mystical quality.

It may border on sacrilegious to spend only one night in Rome, but a traveler adapts to what is available. We’d touched on the spirit of the city, and there is always next time. There has to be, else we could never leave.

Browse Rome Tours Now Available

If You Go:

Ever considered staying in a convent or monastery? There are numerous websites to help, such as: www.bookingmonastery.com or http://www.monasterystays.com.

The official Rome Tourism Website

For ideas on what’s on in Rome

About the author:
Anne Harrison lives with her husband, two children and numerous pets in regional Australia. She discovered travel at the age of ten, then the world of history and philosophy. Her jobs include wife, mother, doctor, farmer, cheese-maker and local witch doctor, and her ambition is to be 80 and happy. Read more at anneharrison.com.au and http://hubpages.com/@anneharrison.

All photos by Anne Harrison
A view towards St Peter’s from the Tiber
The ever popular Spanish Steps
A detail of the Trevi Fountain
The Castel Sant Angelo
Raphael’s tomb, the Pantheon

Spain, Italy & Greece

by Matthew Adams 

The Mediterranean has a variety of intriguing historic destinations in Spain, Italy and Greece. One way you can visit some of those fascinating historical sites is via a cruise. Cruise ships usually stop at ports in Italy, Spain, France and Greece from which you visit some of the world’s greatest museums and historical architecture. This is a Crown Princess cruise I did to see some of the finest historic destinations.

Barcelona

Barcelona, in Catalonia, was the first stopping port. This is a historically significant city in its own right that includes some astonishing architecture. Its most notable architectural landmark is the Sagrada Familia, designed by Gaudi, that includes eight spires which will increase to 18 when construction of the church is complete.

I never went in the Sagrada Familia on my trip, but instead went to the Montserrat Monastery. This is a Benedictine abbey at the summit of the Montserrat mountain. As the mountain rises about 1,200 meters, it’s worth a trip just for the magnificent views alone. There you can also hike the Montserrat nature park that includes numerous hiking trails.

Pisa and Florence

On another stop I visited Pisa with a coach excursion. There I visited the Cathedral Square, a UNESCO heritage site, that is one of the greatest architectural complexes in Europe. That is largely due to the Leaning Tower of Pisa, which is a 183 foot tower with a slight lean of about four degrees. I briefly went in the Duomo cathedral, a masterpiece of Romesque architecture, before returning to the coach. However, the tour gave me little more than 30 minutes in Pisa.

Florence was the next stop on the tour. The historical significance of Florence lies in the Renaissance era, otherwise a cultural rebirth, that inspired a new breed of art and architecture in the city. So it’s not surprising that the Historic Center of Florence is another UNESCO heritage site.

I got a little more time in Florence than Pisa. So I went inside Florence Cathedral that is an effective blend of Italian Gothic, Renaissance and Gothic Revival architecture. The most striking aspect of this cathedral is its huge dome, which is the largest masonry dome ever constructed. I also visited the Ponte Vecchio bridge across the River Arno, which is another of Florence’s landmarks. The bridge retains some of its towers originally built as defensive structures.

Rome

As the capital of an empire that once dominated Europe, Rome has obvious historical significance. The city has preserved some of the finest buildings from the former empire. I took some snapshots of the Colosseum on my trip. I also went to the Pantheon, a remarkably preserved temple that has intriguing architecture. The temple has a coffered concrete dome with an oculus, or central opening, at its summit through which sunlight beams through. With that the Pantheon might have effectively been one giant sundial.

The next stop for the coach was the Vatican. The Vatican has been a separate city-state since fascist Italy established the Lateran Treaty. The Vatican Museums are among the largest in the world, and they include some of the most priceless Renaissance art. The museums showcase a multitude of sculptures, paintings, stone tablets and archeological relics dug up from excavations. Furthermore, visitors can also check out the St. Peter’s Basilica church at St Peter’s Square that also has fabulous Renaissance architecture.

I had a ticket specifically for the Sistine Chapel. That is another masterpiece of Renaissance art with its finely painted ceiling and numerous frescoes that decorate the interior. Finding the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican Museums is not easy, and you can get lost within the maze of corridors. A day at the Vatican would never be enough to effectively explore the immense museum collections. Nevertheless, I eventually found the chapel that was something to behold.

Gibraltar

Finally, the Crown Princess stopped at Gibraltar. This U.K. overseas territory is most notable for the Rock of Gibraltar, which is a limestone rock that rises about 1,398 feet. As the gateway to the Mediterranean, Gibraltar was a strategically vital outpost of the British Empire. Consequently, the British army dug a series of tunnels through the rock where it could store armaments and munitions. The tunnels also protected troops from coastal and aerial bombardments. Britain dug the most extensive Gibraltar tunnels during the 1940s that were expansive enough to accommodate a garrison of 16,000 troops.

I made the trip up the rock for the terrific Mediterranean views. I also entered the entrance of the tunnels of Gibraltar, which are otherwise the Great Siege Tunnels. In addition, I stopped at St. Michael’s Cave, which is a network of limestone caves. There I went inside the Cathedral Cave that includes an auditorium for concerts and drama productions.

Thereafter, I returned to Blighty. What better way to ‘travel through history’ than a European cruise? You can visit many of Europe’s finest historic venues in Italy, Spain or Greece with coach excursions from cruise ports. The only disadvantage is that some coach trips might only give you a very limited time period at a destination.

If You Go:

Pantheon
Vatican Museums
Leaning Tower of Pisa
Great Siege Tunnels
St. Michael’s Cave
Montserrat

Pisa and Florence Private Day Trip from Livorno

About the author:
Matthew is a freelancer who has produced a variety of articles for various publications and websites such as Swing Golf Magazine, TripAdvisor, Naval History, Artilleryman, dotTech, Bright Hub, Coed Magazine the Washington Post and Vagabundo Travel. Matthew is also the author of Battles of the Pacific War 1941 – 1945. Check out the book’s blog at battlesofthepacificwar.blogspot.co.uk.

All photos are by Matthew Adams:
The Benedictine abbey at Montserrat
The Duomo and Leaning Tower of Pisa at Pisa
The Pantheon in Rome
A snapshot of the Rock of Gibraltar at Gibraltar

The Gathering Point

by Ron Ellege
What do dancing young people, senior sojourners, and Pope Francis have in common? The Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome, Italy.

Viewing its Activity

When in Rome, our go to hotel is the Mecenata Palace which is a worthy refuge of elegance, located atop Esquiline Hill. The hotel is directly across the street from the Basilica, and our requested room provides an unobstructed view of the church.

Over the years we have watched groups gather at twilight for the beginning of their pub crawls. Dividing into teams, they guzzle through drinking games in the piazza while preparing for their evening of revelry. We have observed crowds gather for marches, tours, protests and rallies. From blurry eyed, early morning senior groups touring the Basilica, to high-spirited youth groups assembling to sing and dance in the square, this church is a well celebrated gathering point.

On June 4, 2015, Pope Francis visited Santa Maria Maggiore to celebrate the annual Solemnity of Corpus Christy. The hotel provides an excellent vantage point for this festival held each year on the Basilica steps. My article and pictures of this assembly can be viewed at, “Pope Francis visits Santa Maria Maggiore.”

Importance and Prestige of this Basilica

There are over 25 churches in Rome dedicated to Mary, Santa Maria Maggiore is the largest of these Marian churches. This Major Papal Basilica is prominent in the tradition and adulation of the Catholic community worldwide. Many travel blogs rate Santa Maria as one of the ten most beautiful churches in Europe. Walks of Italy tour Major Basilicas of Rome, includes it as one of “the three most important churches in Rome.” Frommer’s rates it #3 in its article; “The Best Churches.” If you are a cathedral buff, Italy is not complete until you have experienced this great lady.

Located on Esquiline Hill, one of the ancient “Seven Hills of Rome,” the present Basilica dates back to the fifth century AD. It was constructed between 432 and 440 to celebrate the major output of the 431 Council of Ephesus. In Catholic tradition, the Basilica is an attestation of the importance of the Virgin Mary as the Mother of God.

This Basilica is Rome’s only remaining example of early Christian architecture whose core structure remains as it was 1600 years ago. Step in the door and wonder surrounds you, grand and modest – simple yet extravagant, art which captures the eye is witnessed in every direction. The mosaics found in Santa Maria Maggiore are among the oldest representations of the Virgin Mary in Christian Antiquity. Revelations of human thought, presented through combinations of differing styles of mosaic expression.

The Nave and Triumphal Arch

The golden mosaics adorning the triumphal arch date from the 5th century and depict scenes from the early life of Christ and the Virgin Mary. On the left at the top is a panel depicting Christ’s enthronement with a group of angels as his court. Below this is the Epiphany or Adoration of the Magi. The young Christ is seated on a throne with Mary on his right, they are attended by angels.

Panels on the Right side of the triumphal arch include the Presentation in the Temple; the Flight into Egypt; Herod visited by the Magi; the city of Bethlehem. The top center panel displays a circle containing the apocalyptic throne of Christ with the Book of the Seven Seals, flanked by St. Peter and St. Paul.

The Apse

Italian painter and mosaic maker Jacopo Torriti is credited with the adornment of the apse, he crafted it in 1295. The magnificent central work shows the Coronation of the Virgin in which Jesus and Mary are seated on a throne with Jesus placing a jeweled crown on Mary’s head. The sun and moon are under their feet accompanied by a choir of adoring angels. Standing to their left are St. Peter, St. Paul, St. Francis of Assisi and Pope Nicholas IV. Standing on the right is St. John the Baptist, St. John the Evangelist, St. Anthony and Cardinal Colonna. The apse of Santa Maria Maggiore is the most important surviving example of Roman mosaic art from the late middle ages. Descend below the high altar and you enter the burial place of Saint Jerome, this 4th-century saint translated the Bible into the Latin language (the Vulgate). Upstairs, located in the Borghese Chapel, is “Salus Populi Romani,” believed to be the oldest Marian image in Rome. However, on display in this vault is arguably the most important artifact of the Basilica, The Reliquary of the Holy Crib. This crystal shrine, designed by Giuseppe Valadier, is said to contain wood from the Holy Crib of the nativity of Jesus Christ.

The Legend of the Snowfall

Legend has it that an aristocrat named Giovanni, and his barren wife were without child. Seeking divine intervention they committed to build a church to the Virgin Mary. She appeared to them in a dream on the night of August 4, 352 A.D. and told them that a miracle would show them the location on which they were to build the church. That night, Pope Liberius was troubled by the same dream. On the following morning, he travelled to Esquiline Hill and found it miraculously covered in snow. Liberius then traced an outline for the location of the planned church. Although many feel this legend has little basis in fact, to this day the church on Esquiline Hill is often referred to as Our Lady of the Snow.

5 Reasons to visit Santa Maria Maggiore

1. The opulence of its décor.
♦ This gem will keep your camera snapping and your eyes twinkling from the grandeur of its marble floors, tapestries, mosaics, statues, tombs and relics.
♦ Its spectacular ceiling is said to be decorated with gold which Columbus transported from the new world.

2. The freedom to move about with little crowding
♦ Check the schedule for special occasions and visit any other time.
♦ Only on rare occasions is this venue crowded.

3. Proximity and ease of access
♦ A four block walk from the main train station and Termini Underground.
♦ The city bus stop is on the corner of the piazza
♦ A scheduled stop for all Hop On Hop Off tours
♦ Only a ten minute walk from the Colosseum.

4. It’s FREE! There is no cost of admission
♦ Stay as long as you want, return as often as you please.

5. Its prominence and status among Rome’s churches
♦ Santa Maria Maggiore is one of the Seven Pilgrim Churches of Rome
♦ It stands among the four patriarchal basilicas

Maria Maggiore is listed as a “Top 10 Attraction” and “Must See Venue” in most major guide books, including Rick Steves’.

If You Go:

Expect to spend several hours in this grand Basilica and by all means, bring a camera. Guided tours can be arranged through many of the local or world-wide guide services such as Frommer’s or Walks of Italy. Self-guided tours, complete with audio guides are available in the vestibule. For information visit their official website.

Hours of Operation: The Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica is open Monday through Saturday from 7:00 to 19:00 (in winter until 18:00), on Sundays and holidays from 9:30 to 12:00. Free admission.

How to get there: get off at the stop termini of the underground; take via Cavour southwest 4 blocks, the Basilica is on your left. The Basilica is located on the square with the same name – Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore also referred to as Piazza dell’Esquilino.
Address: Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore, 42, 00100 Roma RM, Italy
Phone: +39 06 6988 6800

Link for GoogleMap is HERE.

Churches of Rome Small-Group Tour: Maria Maggiore, Santa Pudenziana, and Basilica di Santa Prassede

About the author:
Ron Elledge is a Freelance Writer/Photographer. You can see some of his work at these sites:

www.writtenfyi.com (blog)
www.ronelledgeexposed.com (photography)
ron@writtenfyi.com (email)

All photos are by Ron Elledge.

My husband and I arrived in Rome during the heat wave that broke records all across Europe in the summer of 2015. After a week of sweltering in temperatures up to 36.7 (99.68 F) in London and 39.7 C (103 F) in Paris, we were resigned to buying bottled water at every possible opportunity. We were about to learn that Rome is actually better prepared to handle thirsty tourists than most major cities, and that it has been for centuries.

During a visit to the Colosseum on our first day, I rounded a corner to find a stream of water spouting from what looked like nothing more than a hole in the wall into a drain in the cobbled floor. A handwritten note indicated that the fountain was under repair. It looked like a piece of unfinished plumbing left uncapped for emergency purposes, so I presumed a U.S. style fountain was missing.

Coming from drought-stricken Southern California, I was shocked that there was no off switch, but I was also impressed that they thought it was important enough to provide us water that they just left it on. Any hesitation faded as I finished off the last drops of warm water in my bottle and took my place in line. Person after person quickly drank from cupped hands or filled containers and stepped aside. A couple of boys took a moment to let the liquid pour over their scalps and behind their ears. I expected tepid water at best.

I was surprised to find the water clear and cold, the perfect temperature for drinking. I filled my bottle, guzzled half while standing there—it had been a long wait in the strong Mediterranean sun to get into the Colosseum — and refilled it again.

I later found that what was missing was one of the cylindrical cast iron fountains nicknamed “nasoni” meaning “big noses” for the drooping spigots that protrude from them. I was late to the table. This has been going on for some time. When you drink from the public water system in Rome, you’re not just getting refreshed, you’re drinking history.

Rome has been importing and distributing water for over 2,000 years. Though the current structure in the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastavere dates only to 1873, it is believed that the first of Rome’s fountains was established here in the 8th Century. Early fountains were built to service horses as well as humans. Some of the trough-like basins found in the city today are actually beautifully carved sarcophagi bought from churches in the middle-ages after they’d lain unused for centuries.

The apparent wastefulness of all that water flowing 24/7 isn’t lost on the city. During the 1980s the city added taps to the fountains, requiring that thirsty Romans operate a nob or button in order to drink. The results were far from satisfying. On hot days, water standing in the pipes heated up, making it less than appealing. Vandals broke the new taps, freeing the flow of the water, and officials gave up on the project. The water doesn’t go entirely to waste. It’s recycled to grow gardens, flush sewers and in industrial cleaning.

Once you use one of Rome’s fountains you will begin to spot them everywhere. There are more than 200 in the ancient walled city, and approximately 2500 spread through the entire municipality.

I found one that wasn’t in use on a side street as my husband and I walked back to our hotel from Trevi Fountain on a very hot afternoon. I wondered for a second if it was functional, but as I stepped around it I found a stream of fresh cool water splashing into a grate at my feet. I splashed my face and filled my bottle. By the time I was done, a couple of people had queued up behind me. I felt as much like a native as a brief visitor can feel.

The drinking fountains and public fountains of Rome aren’t just for viewing. Citizens and visitors alike are encouraged to use the city’s abundant water to rehydrate and refresh. We found a small gathering of people splashing and filling containers at Fontana Barcaccia at the base of the Spanish Steps. It’s a good way to beat the summer heat.

It’s fun to stumble upon a nasone, but help is available! You can download a free drinking fountain finding app called Drink in Italy from GooglePlay or I Nasoni di Roma at iTunes, or you can navigate to the Free Water in Rome website for an interactive online map.

Do give the nasoni of Rome a try while you’re there. Your first time may feel a bit daunting, but once you try it, I’ll bet you’re sold on this delicious free resource.

Drinking as Romans have drunk down through the centuries made me feel connected to the people and the place. I even felt cared for and protected by a state that is willing to invest so much effort and expense into providing its citizens and visitors with this vital service. I imagine this has been true since the tradition began more than two thousand years ago, and it just keeps getting better. The utility company ACEA is about to launch a new network of large octagonal water houses that will offer still or sparkling water, and provide charging stations for electronic devices, bringing the nasoni into the 21st Century in style.

If You Go:

♦ Watch ACEA’s website for updates on the newest iteration of public water fountains: Water Houses that will offer not only free fresh water—either still or sparkling!—but will also feature free phone and tablet charging stations.
♦ Find nasoni while you’re on the go: download Drink in Italy from GooglePlay
♦ Or I Nasoni de Roma from iTunes
♦ If apps aren’t your thing, try the interactive map at Free Water in Rome.

About the author:
Sally Charette enjoys micro-travel day trips around Southern California almost as much as exploring other parts of the globe. She’s a genre-hopping writer working in nonfiction, fiction, and poetry. Her work has appeared in The Sun, ZYZZYVA, Weber: The Contemporary West, Ocean, etc. She blogs at www.anygivensundrytoo.wordpress.com. Stop by!

Rome Private Half-Day Tour with Private Minivan and English Speaking Driver

Photo credits:

Fontana di piazza della Rotonda by Galzu / Public domain
All other photos are by Sally Charette:
The fountain in the Piazza della Rotunda (in front of the Pantheon) is one of the oldest of the cylindrical style still in use
Dragon-headed spigots in use in the Piazza de la Rotunda. If you block its mouth, water will rise drinking-fountain-style from the hole in its forehead
Some of the older fountains emerge from the sides of buildings and flow into basins, drains or troughs below
Not just for drinking! A young traveler enjoys water from the Fontanella della Barcaccia (Fountain of the Ugly Boat) in the Piazza di Spagna at the base of the Spanish Steps
Cold, but refreshing on a hot day

by Anne Harrison 

In the middle of the Tiber lies the picturesque Isola Tiberina. The island embraces two millennia of Roman history, for it has been important to Rome from her beginnings as a small river-side settlement through to her growth into the Eternal City. Foundations date back to the Iron Age – long before Romulus and Remus were mothered by their She-wolf.

In 293 BC, Rome suffered from one of the many pestilences which proved the tribulation of the Ancient world. Seeking divine aid, a delegation of high priests and doctors made a pilgrimage to Aesculapius’ temple at Epidaurus. In response to their prayers and offerings, one of the temple’s sacred The success of the quest was thus assured. Upon the ship’s return to Rome, the snake slithered into the Tiber and crossed to the reed-covered island, which lay opposite the city’s port. This was so obvious a sign Aesculapius desired a temple here, not only was one built but the island itself hewn to resemble a ship. Large structures of white travertine were built at either end to augment the resemblance to prow and stern, complete with a bust of Aesculapius and his caduceus. In the centre of the island an obelisk was raised to suggest the main mast of a Roman galley. Thus dedicated to the powerful god of healing, the Isola Tiberina has been associated with the care of the sick ever since.

These carvings are still visible. At the foot of the Ponte Cestio (the first stone bridge to link the island with the Trastevere, on the Right Bank), steps lead down to the island’s embankment. Here on the travertine can be seen the carving of Aesculapius and his staff with its entwined, winged serpents. The bridge itself is inscribed with the names of the Byzantine emperors associated with its restoration in 30AD.

With the growth of Rome, the reputation of the Isola Tiberina’s temple and its doctors grew such that the sick ventured here from all over the Empire to seek healing. Like its namesake at Epidaurus, the temple became famous for the drinking of its miraculous waters, and for dream cures. Most probably opium (or a similar opiate) was used to produce a drugged state filled with dreams, hallucinations, and a susceptibility to suggestion. Hypnosis was a key factor; priests appeared in the dim, smoky light dressed as Aesculapius, and sacred snakes and dogs flickered their tongues over ailing body parts. The fame of these cures was to outlast both the Roman and Greek Empires.

The temple is gone, but on its ruins Emperor Otto II founded the church of St Bartholomew all’Isola in 1000AD. Within this Gothic church lies the remains of the well whose waters were once famous for healing. Otto dedicated the church to the memory of his friend St Adalbert of Prague, whose altar stands in The Millers’ Chapel. The chapel is decorated with frescoes depicting the flour-mills once moored around the island, providing freshly milled flour for a city now famous for its freshly ground coffee.

The Fate-Bene-Fratelli

The spirit of Aesculapius continues in the San Bartolomeo Hospital, founded in 1584 and still under the care of the Brothers Of St John of God. The hospital and its medieval buildings occupy most of the island, and are more suggestive of alchemy and hooded monks than modern medicine. Both the hospital and the Hospitalliers are often called after the inscription on an alms box in the adjacent church (Fate-bene-fratelli, or ‘do good, Brothers’); much of their time is spent caring for Rome’s poor.

Named after St Bartholomew, the hospital naturally became known for it dermatological unit; skin complaints have been under the saint’s protection since he was flayed alive in the Middle Ages. Rahere, a favourite of Henry II, was cured here in the11th century of the itch (and possible malaria); he returned to England to found St Bart’s.

The hospital can be reached from the Left Bank via the Ponte Fabricio, which links the Old Ghetto to the island. At the junction of the two join stands the Pierloni-Caetani Tower. Built by the Pierloni family before 1000 AD at one of the most strategic approaches along the Tiber to Medieval Rome, it was used first by the Pierlonis and then the Caetanis for control of the river. Jewish in origin, the Caetani family was to produce a pope, Anacletus II. The Adjacent Pierloni-Caetani Castle, which fronts onto the Piazza San Bartolomeo, served as a fortress for several fugitive popes in the Middle Ages. It became a Franciscan monastery in the 17th century, and is now the Tiber Island History museum.

Standing on the Ponte Fabricio is one way to glimpse the essence of Ancient Rome. Built in 62 BC, not long after Spartacus lead the slaves in a revolt, it remains the oldest original bridge over the Tiber still in use. Two ancient stone heads can be seen in the parapets. Not far away is The Forum, where on Capitoline Hill the magnificent Temple of Jupiter was once the centre of the known world.

In Rome, the linking of these times, through an island which has been associated with healing for over two thousand years, seems not strange, but, entirely appropriate.

Private Archaeology and Architecture Walk Through Rome

If You Go:

♦ Staying in a convent offers a unique experience when in Rome (or elsewhere in Italy). For help in booking, try www.santasusanna.org/comingToRome/convents.html or www.bookingmonastery.com
♦ Arguably Rome’s best coffee is the Sant’Eustachio Il Caffé, just around the corner from the Pantheon and not too far from the Isola Tiberina
♦ The open top tourist buses are a great way to get around Rome’s major sights, without struggling with the overloaded public transport system

About the author:
Anne Harrison lives with her husband, two children and numerous pets on the Central Coast, NSW. Her jobs include wife, mother, doctor, farmer and local witch doctor – covering anything from delivering alpacas to treating kids who have fallen head first into the washing machine. Her fiction has been published in Australian literary magazines, and has been placed in regional literary competitions. Her non-fiction has been published in medical and travel journals. Her ambition is to be 80 and happy. Her writings are available at anneharrison.com.au and anneharrison.hubpages.com

All photos are by Anne Harrison:
A view over the Tiber towards the Vatican
Bernini’s sunken boat – boats feature heavily in the art around Rome
The past endures: an ancient Roman column topped with a Christian saint
A view from the Forum, across a Renaissance church, to the modern Victor Emmanuel Monument

Cimitero Acattolico: Rome’s Protestant Cemetery

by Ellen Johnston

The sun stopped shining and the rain came in, as if it knew where I was going – past the Palatine Hill and the Coliseum to the subway, which would take me to Piramide station in the un-touristed south of the city – Rome, that is. The station is named for the nearby Pyramid of Cestius, built in 18-12 B.C. as a tomb for a forgotten local magistrate, a piece of folly that marks the entrance to far more hallowed ground.

Perhaps Italians might disagree with me when I use this term, since this, the Cimitero Acattolico, is the last resting place for those who could not, or would not be buried in the traditional Catholic cemeteries here in the heart of Roman Catholicism. But hallowed it is, nonetheless, since this patch of land, overgrown with weeds and flowers, contains the remains of the some of the most important figures of the last few centuries: local dissidents and those from other lands, ex-pats, writers, revolutionaries, atheists and Jews who, famous or not, all came to rest together here in this painfully beautiful monument to non-conformity. Antonio Gramsci, Gregory Corso, and a cat named Romeo are some among this motley crew, though none of them hold higher places in the echelons of artistic memory than the two greats of English Romanticism buried here: John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley. How could it not be raining, then? It was as if the luminous Roman sky had been replaced for a moment by a melancholy English one, pausing to weep a bit for two lost sons, entombed amidst the ruins, far far away.

Though their names are often intertwined, John Keats and Percy Shelley came to Italy for very different reasons. Shelley, the rebellious Etonian from an Aristocratic family, was leading a wild life, one easier experienced abroad. He was best friends with Lord Byron and romantically entangled with Mary Wollstonecraft Godwin (turned Shelley), the author of Frankenstein. His lifestyle, radical views, and writing had brought him not only fame, but also infamy. Like many writers and artists of his day, he was attracted to the warmth of the European south, to its classical pagan origins, and to that fact that he could live freely there, away from the scandals that plagued him in England. Keats, on the other hand, came to Italy to die.

Born in London of far more humble birth, Keats’ life had been plagued by poverty, the loss of his parents, unfulfilled sexual desires, and the death of his brother to tuberculosis. Unlike Shelley, who attended Oxford, Keats never had the opportunity to reap the benefits of the English academic establishment, never mind rebel against it. Instead, he apprenticed as an apothecary and then studied medicine at Guy’s Hospital, in the city’s unfashionable south. His desire to write, however, eventually drew him away from the medical path – though he never lived its consequences down. In an England where class meant everything, including who could or couldn’t be an artist, John Keats’ Cockney origins and practical training were simply too much for some critics to bear. Of Keats’ poem Endymion, John Gibson Lockhart wrote that “it is a better and a wiser thing to be a starved apothecary than a starved poet; so back to the shop Mr. John, back to plasters, pills, and ointment boxes.”

Besides the cruelty inherent in this statement, the irony was palpable too. Keats’ medical training, no matter how practical it may have been, could do nothing to stop what was then an almost incurable disease, tuberculosis. Not long after his brother died, it became clear that John Keats had contracted the illness too. Knowing that he would not survive the English winter, his friends gathered whatever money they could in order to send him to a gentler climate, a last ditch attempt to save his life.

John Keats sailed to Rome with his friend Joseph Severn in the autumn of 1820. The climate, however, proved not gentle enough, and the disease too strong. Within a few short months, Keats was dead, believing himself to be a failure. He asked to be buried in a grave bearing neither his name nor date of death, only the words “Here lies One Whose Name was writ in Water.” Those very words adorn his grave today, though his friends, in their belief that he should be recognized as a great poet, added some of their own.

Despite the critics, Keats’ close personal friends were not the only ones to defend him. He also had an advocate in the very man who now lies buried some twenty metres away. When Keats died, Percy Shelley wrote “I weep for Adonais – he is dead!”, the opening to his poem, Adonais, which was written as an elegy to Keats, and considered by some to be his best work. Shelley had met Keats through a mutual friend on a visit to Hampstead, admired his talents, and considered him to not only be a rival, but one who would surpass him. Not long after Keats’ death, Shelley went to visit his grave in the Cimitero Acottolico. Of the visit Shelley said “the cemetery is an open space among the ruins, covered in winter with violets and daisies. It might make one in love with death, to think that one should be buried in so sweet a place.” When I visited it myself, there in the broody mist, somber and romantic, I couldn’t help but agree with Shelley’s words.

Shelley was buried in the same cemetery a mere year later, the victim of a violent Mediterranean storm that drowned him while sailing off the coast of northern Italy. A book of John Keats’ poetry was found in his pocket. Shelley’s cremated remains (all but his heart, which was kept by Mary Shelley and eventually buried in England) can be found under a small flat tombstone a short walk from Keats’, bearing the Latin “Cor Cordium” (heart of hearts), and a quote from Shakespeare’s The Tempest: “Nothing of him that doth fade, But doth suffer a sea-change is to something rich and strange.”

Visiting the Cimitero Acattolico is easy, though few Italians can tell you how to get there. Almost none I asked even knew it existed. It is free to enter, though donations are requested. There is a tiny visitors centre that sells books and postcards at the entrance, manned by staff who speak English, usually ex-pats themselves. Through the gate, Keats’s grave can be found by walking directly to the left, until you reach the first corner. A plaque written by his friends (complete with an acrostic based on his name) adorns the wall above it. A small bench lies in front, should you choose to sit and contemplate the great poet who believed his life’s work would make fewer impressions than ripples in a pond.

On my own visit, while I sat there overcome with tears, I heard a rustling from the wall above me. From out of one of the vines came a black and white cat, who jumped down onto the bench, and then snuggled up onto my lap. Through my own teary-eyed haze and quixotic imagination, it was easy to believe that in that moment I was being visited by the spirit of the poet himself. Of course, as I got up to walk to Shelley’s grave, straight ahead and to the right, I realised that the cat was just one among many strays who live in the cemetery, and to whose livelihood you can also donate money. However, the impression stayed with me, there on that wet rainy day, as I wandered alone through the grounds of the Cimitero Acattolico. And I emphasize the word “alone”, because visitors here are many fewer than in other famous cemeteries such as Père Lachaise or in Roman tourist spots like Saint Peter’s. When Oscar Wilde visited in 1877, he called it “the holiest place in Rome”. There, breaking bread with the dead, it’s not hard to see why.

Rome Tour with Private English Speaking Driver

If You Go:

♦ The Cimitero Acattolico can be easily reached from the Piramide metro station. It’s a few short blocks away, and can be accessed on Via Caio Cestio.
♦ The suggested minimum donation is €3.
♦ If you’re worried about getting hungry, visit the Jewish Ghetto before you hop on the metro, and pick up a taste of non-conformist Rome. Pasticceria Boccione Limentani sells delicious pizze, a fruit and nut filled bread – sweet, dense and perfect after a long walk. The bakery can be found at Via Portico D’Ottavia 1.

Ultimate Rome food tour

About the author:
Ellen Johnston is a cultural nomad —a traveller, writer and musician who bounces all over the world. Originally from Vancouver, Canada, she has West Coast roots, a Mediterranean soul and a Chilanga heart, thanks to a recent stint in the Mexican capital. She currently resides in the San Francisco Bay Area, trying to soak up a little of all three. You can find links to her other writing and photography at www.chamacaloca.wordpress.com

Photo credits:
Top photo of Cimitero Acattolico by LuciusCommons / Public domain
All other photos are by Ellen Johnston.

by Doris Gregory

On that stifling July day, the elevator was packed with hot, sweaty people. We had just come down, by spiral staircase and then the elevator, after viewing the Eternal City from the top of St. Peter’s.

The elevator door opened and the crowd surged past nine-year old Wayne, out into the corridor. My son just stood there, with a strange look on his face. “Come on, Wayne,” I ordered, “Move!” “I can’t,” he said. “My arm’s stuck!”

Evidently his arm had been resting on the elevator door. When the door opened and slid into its pocket, it had taken his arm with it.

The elevator operator shouted something in his native Italian and pulled Wayne’s arm free. Then he grabbed him by the other hand, muttered something like “dottoro” to me and the ticket taker outside, and then took off at top speed with Wayne, while I and Linda and Brian, my other two children, one on each side of me, ran behind. We had all we could do to keep up, but had a brief pause for breath when the man stopped at a drinking fountain with the comforting sign “Aqua Pura” and shoved Wayne’s gashed and bleeding hand into the water. Then on we raced down the corridor to a short wide flight of stairs leading to heavy double doors, fronted by two colourfully uniformed Swiss Guards. As we approached, our escort shouted something to them, they moved aside, and the doors flew open. On we rushed, down another long corridor, around a corner, then up one more short wide flight of stairs, where another set of Swiss Guards moved aside and one more pair of doors flew open. One last long corridor and we arrived at what appeared to be the infirmary.

The white-coated doctor shoved a printed sheet in front of me and handed me a pen. I didn’t know a word of Italian, other than “Parla Inglesi?” (to which his answer would obviously have been “no”) but assumed that this lengthy document was one absolving any responsibility of the Vatican for my son’s unhappy plight. I signed it “Can’t read a word of this Doris Gregory” all on one line, not that I had any hope of winning a lawsuit against the Vatican.

The good doctor washed and disinfected and bandaged the hand, after first pulling on the fingers to make sure nothing was broken, which fact he somehow communicated to me by pantomime. And then he held up a bottle labeled “tetano”, at the same time holding up four fingers of his other hand. Since the children and I had all had tetanus boosters just before leaving Canada, I nodded my head. At that time, the boosters were considered to last only four months.

I have absolutely no recollection of how we got out of that maze of corridors. Presumably the elevator operator had remained with us and escorted us back the way we had come.

My children and I will never forget St. Peter’s. We didn’t have an audience with the Pope, but we did get to see areas other tourists never get into!

Footnote: Wayne’s hand healed well and he grew up to be a surgeon.

Private Tour: Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St Peters Basilica Guided Tour

If You Go:

ROME and VATICAN TOURS
VATICAN

About the author:
Doris Gregory was born in Vancouver, but spent almost half her life elsewhere, first as a Servicewoman in England during World War 2, then pursuing a career in psychology in the USA and Ontario. Now she is enjoying a happy retirement back in Vancouver, volunteering at Brock House and writing her war memoir, which she hopes to publish during the coming year.

Photo credit:
Image by Michael Siebert from Pixabay