by Elizabeth von Pier 

It is early morning and the sun is casting shadows on the monumental canyon walls leading into the Siq, a half-mile narrow passage used to enter and exit the “rose city” of Petra in the Kingdom of Jordan. Except for our Bedouin guide Zaid and the horses we are riding, we are here alone at this lovely time of day. The tourists have not yet arrived and we have Petra to ourselves, at least for a short while.

The horses’ footsteps echo off the walls of the red sandstone cliffs towering above us. The path is only a few feet wide between these sheer canyon walls which get higher and closer as you approach the Siq. The sun doesn’t shine here and not much grows. High up you may see some fig trees or oleander clinging to the brown, white, red and ochre walls. It seems almost sacrilegious to break the silence with spoken words.

After fifteen minutes, we get off the horses and start our walk along the gritty road, admiring the incredible sights on both sides of us. Petra is more than 2,000 years old and has some magnificent and amazingly well-preserved buildings that were hand-carved by the Nabataean people, an Arab tribe who ruled this area for hundreds of years starting as early as the sixth century B.C. The Nabataeans were also known for their water management systems which channeled in a water supply for the inhabitants. We pass the dam that they built and which was rebuilt and reinforced in 1964 to divert the flash floods that sometimes hit the canyons. We pass some hand-carved ancient script and the weathered figure of a camel caravan, the method of moving goods along the trade routes running east to west from Yemen to the Mediterranean Sea. The best is yet to come.

Al-Khazneh, the “Treasury”

The Siq becomes narrower and then opens up slowly to reveal the crowning jewel of Petra, the famous al-Khazneh, or Treasury. The pathway we are on and the canyon walls towering over us are in dark shade, but through the narrow opening we can see the morning sun brilliantly shining off the pink sandstone of al-Khazneh. It is an awe-inspiring moment of revelation and mid-morning is the perfect time of day to experience it.

The facade of al-Khazneh is more than 130 feet high, made of fine red sandstone and adorned with Corinthian columns, bands decorated with goddesses and deities, women warriors, eagles, ears of corn, and botanical motifs. The side panels are carved with figures of Castor and Pollux who lead the horses to heaven; to the right and left of the six central columns you can see their “footprints” climbing straight up to the sky (or maybe these are simply imprints from the scaffolding used during construction). According to Bedouin beliefs, the urn at the top contains the Pharaoh’s treasure.

We are not sure if at the time this was a temple or a tomb, but today it stands, a magnificent building carved into the rock more than 2,000 years ago and in remarkable condition, protected by the mountains from wind and erosion. Camels rest in the courtyard in front of the Treasury, and on the opposite wall Bedouin men have set up tables to sell trinkets to the tourists they hope will soon come along.

The Street of Facades, the Amphitheater, and the Royal Tombs

Beyond al-Khazneh, we enter the Street of Facades, named for its many facades in the Assyrian style and believed to be tombs for ordinary people because of their small size and minimal decoration. Next, carved into a stone hill, is an impressive amphitheater which seats 7,000 to 10,000 people. And then there are the Royal Tombs, four adjoining facades on the right side of the central route through the city. One of the tombs features a grand five-story facade, another is made up of candy swirls of colored rock, and yet another has a jar crowning one of the pediments. Elements of Nabataean and classical architectural styles are evident here. Dotting the hills on the opposite side of the road are hundreds of cave openings which likely were used as shelter.

We are discovering that Petra is huge. It is spread over 100 square miles in the mountains and valleys of Ma’an Governate, about 150 miles south of the capital, Amman. Although you could easily spend a week hiking and exploring the site, we find that the main attractions are on an eighteen-mile route between the Siq and Ad-Dayr, the Monastery, near the top of the mountain. With the help of horses, mules and donkeys, we are able to manage it all in one day.

Ad-Dayr, the “Monastery”

There are 900 stone steps that you have to climb to reach the Monastery—or alternatively, you can hire a Bedouin and his mule to transport you up the steep incline. We decide to take the mule up, and walk back down. I’m pretty sure this is a good decision after seeing the faces of the people who decided to make the climb on their own power. But even with the mule it is not easy. I am not able to hoist myself onto the animal so the strong Bedouin man physically picks me up and deposits me into a saddle made of soft carpets and blankets, almost as though I am featherweight. It is a steep incline, the steps are worn to a shiny luster and look slippery, and there are sharp drop offs into the ravines far below. The mule climbs dangerously close to the edge, and it takes a fair amount of balance and stamina to ride him. We quickly learn that you must lean forward when climbing up, and backwards when going down. My guide tells me I am a good rider and stays close to my sister, who he says needs help.

After what seems like an interminable ride, we finally arrive at the top and the Monastery is only a few steps away. At a quick glance, it looks a lot like the Treasury and is equally well-preserved, but the Monastery is much larger. It dates from the third century B.C. and was modeled on the Treasury, but it has niches to house sculptures where the Treasury has bas-reliefs. It too has a columned portico and the space inside was used for religious meetings; the hall was later re-used as a Christian chapel and that is how the structure got its name.

On a small hill overlooking the Monastery is a “rest-stop” which offers padded benches and refreshments to tired tourists. Further along is a commanding view of the surrounding hills (jabals) and valleys (wadis) of the Jordanian countryside. It’s a great view and I suspect is just as good as that from the shack farther up on the mountain peak with the Jordanian flag and hand-lettered sign claiming “Best View”.

We walk back down from the Monastery, passing weary tourists who are finishing their climb up without the help of a mule. We reassure them that they are not far from the top. It is a very interesting walk back, a peek into Bedouin life as it once was here in Petra. Unlike our trip up when we were riding the mules and didn’t dare glance around, now that our feet are planted on “terra firma”, we are able to enjoy the awe-inspiring sights, the beautiful blue sky, and the clear mountain air.

The Bedouin

The Bedouin serve as our guides in Petra, but they no longer live here. Prior to 1985 when Petra was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, they lived a nomadic life in the caves we have been passing, or in tents set up against the canyon walls. Here they would raise sheep and goats and had no electricity, running water or sanitation. They rose with the sun and slept when it was dark. They wove their own material, cooked over fire, ate what they grew or raised or could buy in local markets, and lit their way with kerosene lanterns. Since Petra is now a protected national park, the Bedouin who chose to stay now live in a settlement in Petra’s quarry site, Um Saihoun. They live in concrete and brick cubes that provide what they describe as a “more civilized” way of life and they come to the national park to cater to the tourist trade. They are content with their lives.

The men wear mendeels on their heads and long gowns called thaubs, and they capitalize on Petra’s tourist trade by selling trinkets or rides on their camels, horses, mules and donkeys. If they are lucky to have a son, the father will conduct the negotiations with the tourists and the son will lead the animal along the agreed-upon route.

The women sell souvenirs and scarves from stalls clinging to the mountainside. These women are very aggressive entrepreneurs. Even a glance in their direction solicits cries of “good price”, “only for you, madame”, and “it doesn’t hurt to look”. If you do pause to look, you are offered a glass of hot sugary tea served in tiny gold-rimmed glasses; this ensures that you will stay a bit longer and hopefully buy something. Nothing is marked with a price and I suspect it will get cheaper as the day wears on.

What Happened to Petra?

The demise of Petra from its beginnings in the sixth century B.C. is not totally clear but it is known that, after the Romans took control in A.D. 106, it started to decline as Rome opened up new trade routes and moved its colonial capital to Bostra, about 165 miles north of Petra in present-day Syria. There also were earthquakes in this area and a particularly violent event was recorded in A.D. 363. Petra was always known to the Bedouin who lived there, but to the western world it was for centuries a forgotten outpost that became known as the “lost city”. In 1812, it was re-discovered by Swiss explorer Johann Burckhardt who rode into the city disguised as a Muslim holy man and opened up this part of the world to us.

In 2007, Petra was named amongst the New Seven Wonders of the World. There is no doubt that it should be on everyone’s “bucket list”.

If You Go:

Moevenpick Resort Petra (at the entrance to Petra), 214 Wadi Musa, Petra 71810, Jordan. A substantial breakfast buffet is included with the price of the room.
Rami Ahmaed (tour guide out of Az-Zarqa, a suburb of Amman rumrami@yahoo.com. We highly recommend Rami to take you to see the sights of Jordan. He is dependable, an excellent driver and a knowledgeable guide.

Is it safe? Jordan is surrounded by war-torn countries and has suffered from its own terrorist attacks. And, in light of the recent [DEC. 2017] attack in Kerak, 75 miles south of Amman, the U. S. Department of State warned that tourists “must consider the risks of travel to and throughout the country”. But we felt safe there and found the people to be warm and welcoming. There is a high level of security throughout the country, on the roads and in all hotels, and the tourist police are highly visible. As in many countries in today’s world, tourists should exercise caution and follow the instructions of the local authorities. It is strongly advised to stay away from areas close to the Jordan/Syria border.

Previously published in HACKWRITERS.

Private Tour: Petra and Wadi Rum Day Trip from Amman

About the author:
Elizabeth von Pier loves to travel. After she retired from her lifetime career in banking, she started traveling seriously, photographing the sights she saw, and writing about her experiences. You can find her articles in In the Know Traveler, Go Nomad, Wave Journey, hackwriters.com, travelmag.uk.com, and Travel Thru History.

All photos by Elizabeth von Pier

by Lindsay Nieminen 

Amman, Jordan’s capital city and home to over 4 million of the country’s 9 million people, is characterized by ancient Roman ruins and modernity’s coffeehouses! A city of contrasts, with its ancient origins on display in the heart of the city and among the city’s hilly terrain. Yet, it is no stranger to modern convinces with Samsung stores littered among the narrow winding streets and fast food franchises situated next to typical Jordanian eats.

We started our first morning in Jordan, with a trip the Amman’s highest hill, Jebel al-Qalia, to visit the Citadel. Atop Jebel al-Qalia lies the massive remains of the Hercules temple, built during the reign of Marcus Aurelius in the second century A.D., and the fist of Hercules, the only remaining piece of the estimated 13 meter statue erected at the site, its shattered pieces long since pillaged. There is evidence that the Jebel al-Qalia has been occupied since about 1800 BC due to its strategic location. From the top of the hill, you can see the the Roman Theatre in downtown Amman, cut into the side of a mountain, likely to protect many of the 6000 spectators it could hold, from the sun. Built in the 2nd century A.D. it is an impressive remnant and the most popular attraction in Amman for tourists.

When I say tourists, do not think that you will be among hundreds of onlookers when you explore Amman. The first thing I said to our guide, Awad was “Where are all the people?”

If you are looking for someone to help you plan and/or show you around the country. Get in contact with me and I can pass on Awad’s contact information to you.

In Amman, You will not find thousands of tourists dotted like ants among the relics like you would see in Rome. You may encounter another tour group or other visitors, but for the most part, both the Amman Citadel and the Amman Roman Theatre were quite empty in the morning when we visited them. Tourism in Jordan is suffering due to the instability in the region. But despite the negative media coverage on the Middle East and the two million refugees camped near Jordan’s Northern border, we felt completely safe the entire time in Jordan.

After visiting the theatre, we wandered through the open air markets, with sellers hawking their goods to passers by. The boys were wide-eyed with the commotion of buyers and sellers, with the “Welcome to Jordan,” flashy smiles, and the auctioneer style chants, as sellers compete to gain attention (and well, to make as much noise as possible). It was a busy place, as Jordanians bought fresh fruits, veggies and other wares to take home. While Amman has built modern malls in recent years, and does boast a grocery store to two (one was even a Safeway), a lot of food is still bought from traditional markets or roadside stands.

Navigating Amman’s winding, narrow roads and hilly terrain makes it not a very walkable city. I would suggest you plan your day in advance if you do not have a car and driver. A quick look at the Nymphaeum, a partially preserved Roman public fountain which is currently being restored should be part of your day if time allows. Built in the second century A.D., it was believed this public bath contained a 600 square meter (6450 square feet) pool.

There are plenty of cheap eats in Amman, the local fast-food “shwarma” will cost around 2 JD (just under USD3.00) and consists of delicious slices of lamb or chicken sliced from a revolving spit. We stopped at a local shop after 12 but had to wait for it to open. Some shops seem to set their own hours while others will close briefly for prayer, and reopen after returning from the local mosque.

While we did not get a chance to visit the Jordan Museum, it will be a stop when we return. Home to Jordan’s share of the Dead Sea scrolls, as well 8000 year old statues, this international standard museum should not be missed in Amman. You will be able to see Amman’s Egyptian heritage, as the city was once known as Philadelphia, after the ruler Philadelphus (283-246 BC). It was also one of the cities of the Roman Decapolis, before becoming part of the Empire around 30 B.C. The museum will help you get a feel of Amman’s long and storied history.

In more recent history, Amman has been influenced by Arabs and Jews fleeing the 1948 Palestine War and more recently by refugees from Syria. In the three areas of the city where the Palestinian camps were built are still known as the “Palestinian Refugee Camps” despite the array of buildings, shops and schools. Only in name, do they bear any resemblance to their original purpose.

Since 2011 Syrian’s fleeing their native country have moved into Amman and other Jordanian cities. The influx of refugees has seen an increase in rents and food prices in Amman. Where rent was once JD250 (USD350), it is now JD400 (USD 565) and the price of food staples has increased as well. Jordanians are now seeing less money in their pockets as wages have not increased at anything close to the rate of inflation on rent and goods. In a country where half of the population is under 25, King Abdullah II feels his country is in dire straits. Unemployment is skyrocketing, and the schools and healthcare system are under extreme pressure. Jordan is a country historically known for its welcoming nature, but in a country where resources such as water are limited, the Syrian refugee crisis is putting pressure on this friendly country.

After wandering the winding streets of downtown Amman, a visit to the famous Hashem Restaurant in Amman is a must for any foodie. And to be honest, everyone should visit. Open since 1952, this open air restaurant is a favourite of King Abdullah II and almost every dignitary or celebrity that passes through Amman will find their way to Hashem. It does have indoor seating, but literally wedged between two building, most of the patrons spill into the patio and enjoy their meal outdoors. Their legendary falafel and hummus, combined with their cheap prices make it a favourite for locals as well as tourists. If you arrive right at dinner time, expect it to be busy. try and pick a non-peak hour to visit if possible.

Before visiting Jordan I was conscious of their conservative values. Despite being officially a muslim country, there is a large Christian population as well. Women are not required to wear head scarves, nor is it recommended. The Christian women do not cover their head, so unless you are Muslim, I do not suggest it (unless of course you are visiting religious centre such as temples). As a women, wearing conservative shorts will not garner you unwanted attention, but you will stick out of the crowd. People in Jordan do not dress the same as we do in North America. You could walk the streets of Amman wearing a tank top, or Lululemon style workout gear, but you will honestly look silly. It just screams tourist. I suggest some comfortable pants, I found myself in jeans often, with sandals and a t-shirt. Long sleeves are not necessary, a short sleeve t-shirt will be fine. Cotton and flowing fabrics will help keep you cool in the hot temperatures.

We traveled to Jordan in the fall of 2016. The current security risk from Government of Canada Travel Advice and Advisories indicated to “exercise a high degree of caution” but noted that there was no nationwide advisory, but to avoid traveling within 5 Kilometers of either the Syrian or Iraqi borders. Honestly, we could not have felt safer. I expected a high military presence, but while there was an abundance of security, it was not what i was expecting. I pictured heavily armed, camo wearing soldiers, and honestly saw 1 person with an automatic weapon on our entire 7 day visit. Before visiting I was not even sure if armed escorts would be common in the country.

There are different levels of police, from traffic police littered on the streets and highways, often attempting to direct the traffic at busy intersections. There is the regular police, who are doing regular police duties. The gendarmerie, who perform national security for the country (we mostly encountered them unarmed, in casual uniforms, as more of an event type security role), as well as the army. Coming from Canada, we are not accustomed to seeing heavily armed forces, Jordan felt just like home. there was no intimidation from the police or security.

Major hotels in Jordan have metal detectors and bag scanners, which the locals are accustomed to, and it gives an extra sense of security to visiting guests. i did not find this caused me or my family any worry. In fact, the kids were (for once) happy to carry our bags and run them through the scanner. The doormen were always friendly and happy to show the boys pictures of their scanned bags.

In fact, everywhere we went, we encountered welcoming friendly people. Most Jordanians speak impeccable English, on account of their education and English being taught in the schools. Each person we met, whether it be a coffee shop or a restaurant, wanted to know where we were from, offered a sincere “Welcome to Jordan” and proceeded to give the kids handshakes and welcomes and interacted with them directly! The kids, while a little shy at first, were happy for the attention and picked up on the attention quite quickly.

Finishing off the day in Amman found us wandering Rainbow street as we stopped for an ice cream. Still full from Hashem’s eats, we made our way back to our hotel with our guide and driver.

Full-Day Amman City Tour and the Dead Sea from Amman

If You Go:

Most visitors to Amman, spend a day or two to visit the city before heading to the Dead Sea, Jerash, Petra or Wadi Rum. Many day trips are popular from Amman and I would recommend at least three days to explore Petra, Wadi Rum and visit Aqaba.

About the author:
Lindsay is a wife, a mom to two little boys, a soccer player, a freelance writer, a photography enthusiast, a lifetime traveler and a lover of learning. She resides in a suburb of Vancouver when not jet-setting abroad, and is constantly exploring new ways to enjoy every minute she can with her family, and the pressures of living in our fast-paced society. Lindsay is the Editor and Founder of Carpe Diem OUR Way, a member of the BC Association of Travel Writers and a regular contributor to Urban Baby and Toddler Magazine.

All photos copyright Lindsay Nieminen:
Amman’s Citadel – Hercules Temple
Amman’s Roman Theatre
Hashem Restaurant
Dead Sea
Petra

by Becky Garrison

When I came upon the Indiana Jones gift and coffee shops and the Titanic Coffee Shop situated at the entrance to Petra, I got the giggles. Looks like some folks might want to make a buck out of Jordan’s #1 tourist attraction. After passing by a slew of guide trying to “assist” the tourists, I set off on a sandy path. Soon we passed what would be the first of many tombs to come.

After I turned the corner, I felt Lilliputian standing below a row of 400- to 650-foot ragged sandstone mountains. I walked between two massive rocks via the Siq, a narrow gorge filled with natural ravines and fissures. Everywhere I turned along this approximately half-mile path, Mother Nature or an earthborn artisan had carved a sculpture, water channel, shrine to some deity, or some other design into the stone.

Out of the corner of my eye I caught a peek of al-Khazneh (the Treasury). With each step, the Treasury came closer and closer until finally I stood in front of this royal tomb carved into the rock. Built sometime between 100 BCE and 200 CE, the tomb got its name from the legend that pirates hid their treasure in a giant stone urn. Bullet holes on the urn indicate that the Bedouins believed this myth and made numerous attempts to retrieve this booty.

Continuing the sandy path, we approached an eight-thousand-seat Roman amphitheater surrounded by a burial bonanza. Local Bedouins used to occupy the caves we spotted off in the distance. The government outlawed this practice in 1984 out of a concern to preserve the monuments. The Bedouins resettled nearby, though as a compromise of sorts, they’re the only merchants allowed to conduct commerce inside the walls of Petra.

After lunch, I rode up to al-Deir (the Monastery) on donkeys. The thought of climbing up eight hundred steep steps as the temperature hovered near 100 degrees didn’t sound appealing. Horses and camels balk at this almost vertical climb, but donkeys can do it. As the path narrowed and steepened, my stomach felt a bit like it did the first time I rode the Coney Island Cyclone. Still, my donkey never missed a step, stopping only to relieve himself. (My sympathy for those who chose to walk to the monastery, because the path was littered with donkey dung.)

Once our donkeys crossed over the final step, I dismounted and walked up a small hill toward this craggy unfinished edifice. Slowly I walked up a short dusty path. Since there were no guardrails at the mountain’s edge, I carefully approached the crest. With each step, purple peaks winked at me as though they’re daring me to venture into God’s playpen, a spectacle of nature so vast that the Grand Canyon seems like a watering hole in comparison. As stunning as the man-made Treasury and Monastery might be (and they are truly magnificent wonders of the world), nothing can surpass the beauty of nature’s own artistic endeavors.

One Day Tour To Petra From Amman

If You Go:

Petra is a UNESCO World Heritage site: whc.unesco.org/en/list/326
Jordan info: www.lonelyplanet.com/jordan

About the author:
Becky Garrison is a freelance writer who has authored six books with a seventh book in development. In addition to penning a book on pilgrimages for Zondervan (a subsidiary of Harper Collins), she has written articles about destination travel and travel products for several publications, including 52 Perfect Days, Yahoo, Sportsology.net and Killing the Buddha. about.me/BeckyGarrison These reflections were excerpted from Jesus Died for This? (www.amazon.com/Jesus-Died-This-Religious-ebook)

All photos are by Becky Garrison.

An Arab-Islamic Treasure

by Keith Kellett

While many visitors come to Jordan to see the Graeco-Roman ruins at Jerash, or the pre-Roman ruins at Petra, there are many remains there from medieval times, too. Some are in ruins, but some are in use even today.

A lot of them are insignificant, barely attracting notice because there are so many. Ajloun is different. Most people visit it on the way back to the capital, Amman, from Jerash. In this case, it’s usually reached in the late afternoon and it just demands exploration, standing on a prominent hilltop, lit by the setting sun, overlooking the trade route it was built to protect all those centuries ago.

And, if you’re really lucky, you’ll hear the sunset Call to Prayer, echoing round the valley from the mosque in the nearby village.

When the first Crusaders left Europe for the Holy Land at the end of the 11th Century, most of their castles were made of wood. When they returned, they brought back several good ideas from the Middle East, and I have a private, uninformed theory that the stone castle may have been one of them.

Consider, too, the similarity of the English word ‘castle’ with the Arabic ‘Qasr’. Possibly some cross-pollination took place, although in which direction, only a serious student can say. And they’ve been known to disagree at times!

Another thing scholars disagree upon is why the Crusades started in the first place. The version that used to be taught in schools was that the Saracens (= Muslims) under Salah al-Din (Saladin) took over the holy city of Jerusalem, and the Pope of the day gave out that any knight who could shift him was guaranteed a place in heaven.

But, Saladin didn’t capture Jerusalem until 1187, and, indeed, wasn’t even born when the First Crusade was launched. Nevertheless, the Holy Land abounds with stone castles; built by the invading Crusaders and the defending Saracens.

Probably the best known castles are at Aqaba, in modern Jordan, which was extensively rebuilt by the Mamelukes in the 16th Century and Azraq. The latter was in continuous use from Roman times, through the Crusades, when it was held by the Saracens, until the First World War, when it was used as a headquarters by Col. T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) during the Arab Revolt.

Most of the Crusader castles in Jordan, known to Europeans in those days as ‘Oultre Jordan’ (Beyond the River Jordan), were built along the King’s Highway, from Amman to Aqaba. The Saracen castles were built with an eye to trade, as well as defence … and it wasn’t only the Crusaders they were defending against.

Ajloun Castle was built in 1184 by Emir Izz al-Din Usama, the nephew of Saladin, to protect the iron mines of Ajloun, and the important trade route to Jordan from Syria from the invader.

The Crusaders spent decades trying unsuccessfully to capture the castle and the nearby village. Little wonder; Usama’s castle had four towers with arrow-slits in the thick walls … and that was after the 45 foot wide and 40 foot deep moat had been negotiated. After Usama’s death, a fifth tower and a bridge across the moat added. This bridge, decorated with pigeon reliefs, can still be seen today. The work was halted by an invasion, this time from the east. Mongol warriors captured and destroyed the castle, but were almost immediately repulsed by the Mameluke general, Sultan Baybars.

The Mamelukes were originally Egyptian slaves of the Turks, but grew into an influential military power; indeed , they held the sultanate of the Holy Land from 1250 till 1517, retaining considerable powers afterwards, until overthrown by the Ottomans.

Under Mameluke rule, the castle was rebuilt in the form we see today. It was used to defend the trade routes, as well as being a storehouse for crops and provisions. It also became part of a network of signalling stations and pigeon posts … maybe the reason for the pigeon reliefs in the bridge over the moat … that, it was said, could transmit a message from Damascus to Cairo in only 12 hours.

In the 16th Century, the Ottoman Empire was the ruling power. Founded in Turkey in the early 14th Century, the Empire spread outwards till, at the height of its power, it encompassed the Mediterranean Sea from the western border of Algeria right around to the frontier of Austria. It didn’t completely disappear till 1922, although the British drove the Ottomans from the Holy Land in World War I.

Despite the long Ottoman occupation, things were by no means peaceful. Prince Fakhr ad-Din al Mani II used the castle in his battle with Ahmed ibn Taraby in the 17th Century. But, when the Swiss explorer J.L. Burkhardt, the discoverer for the western world of the Egyptian temple of Abu Simbel, and the Jordanian rock city of Petra, arrived at Ajloun, he found the place peacefully occupied by 40 members of the same family.

Earthquakes in 1837 and 1927 damaged the castle, but the Jordanian Department of Antiquities restored the walls and the bridge to the condition we see today. The castle stands on a hilltop, and can be seen for miles around. That’s also an indicator of a good view, on a clear day. From the castle walls, you can see the Jordan valley, and the northern highlands.

It’s said Ajloun Castle is the best-preserved and most complete examples of Arab-Islamic mediaeval architecture in the world; a maze of vaulted passages and winding staircases, dining halls, dormitories and stables. The water supply came from eleven huge water cisterns, important to Muslims, who must pray five times a day, and cannot do so without washing themselves first. Indeed, in the private quarters of the castle’s Commander is a small stone bathtub, unheard of in an English castle until comparatively recent times. And, the quarters had rectangular windows, with an ingenious arrangement to convert them to arrow-slits, should the need arise.

If You Go:

See a comprehensive list of Jordan tours for individuals and groups.

Independent visitors could take a white-painted ‘service taxi’ from the al-Abdali station in Amman … but be warned that the car will have to be shared, and will depart only when full.

Private Tour: Petra and Wadi Rum Day Trip from Amman

About the author:
Having written as a hobby for many years while serving in the Royal Air Force, Keith Kellett saw no reason to discontinue his hobby when he retired. With time on his hands, he produced more work, and found, to his surprise, it ‘grew and grew’ and was good enough to finance his other hobbies; traveling, photography and computers. He is trying hard to prevent it from becoming a full-time job! He has published in many UK and overseas print magazines, and on the Web. He is presently trying to get his head around blogging, podcasting and video.

All photos are by Keith Kellett.