Malaysia is considered the most culturally diverse and ecologically advanced country globally. This is because it is famous for its natural beauty and rich tourist spots for adventurers.

Malaysia is also known for its customs, culture, and traditions, which include a mixture of old and modern attire.

If you are planning a trip to this country, make sure to visit islands, towns, beaches, heritage sites, etc. But before that, create a list of all the places you want to explore when traveling through Malaysia.

Moreover, this requires you to apply for a visa to enter and stay in the host country legally. Therefore, read the following article to learn about the essential details needed for your next adventure.

Information about Malaysia

As a country in Southeast Asia, Malaysia is further divided into two regions known as Borneo’s East Malaysia and Peninsular Malaysia. Furthermore, the constitutional monarchy is the style of the government in the country.

It has thirteen states and almost three federal territories. Both regions join their borders with the countries including,

• Thailand
• Singapore
• Vietnam
• Indonesia
• Brunei
• Philippines

Famous Cities of Malaysia

The capital and the largest city of the nation is Kuala Lumpur. In addition, it is the legislative branch of the federal government. On the other hand, the administrative center of Malaysia is Putrajaya.

The city has two famous seats known as the judicial branch and the executive branch (cabinet, federal ministry, and federal agency) of the government.

Ethnicity of population

Malaysia is a multicultural and multiethnic country, directly affecting the country’s politics. The majority of the population is Malay ethnically, whereas, the rest of the residents are Indians, Chinese, and indigenous peoples.

Natural resources are the main reason for the country’s growing economy. However, medical tourism, commerce, and tourism contribute to it as well.

Common language

Malaysian Malay is the official language of the country. Whereas, English is considered the second language that is active throughout the state.

The official religion of the people of Malaysia is Islam. However, the country gives equal rights to the non-Muslim community.

Lastly, the state head is chosen after every five years from the nine state sultans. The Prime Minister is the head of the government.

6 Best Places to Visit in Malaysia

As you get to know the basic information about Malaysia, this is the best time to explore the best places that you can visit when visiting the country. So, ensure to add the following famous places to your bucket list.

In addition, you can explore the country on your own.

1.   Penang

Penang is aka the Pearl of the Orient. It is famous for its architecture, white sandy beaches, hotels, and gastronomic delights. Moreover, the culture of the country observes a modern blend with the presence of mosques, buildings, and temples.

In addition, Penang is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most famous spots for all Southeast Asian street food.

2.   Langkawi Island

If you want to witness the crystal-clear quality of water, then, Langkawi Island is the best place for this. The destination is known for its sandy beaches and blue azure water that attracts the traveler’s attention.

Moreover, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the top favorite tourist spots in Malaysia. Moreover, Cable Car is the ideal sport that you can do while visiting this island.

3.   Danum Valley

The jungles of eastern Sabah have the mesmerizing Danum Valley. It is the primary rainforest filled with several types of fauna and tropical flora such as leopard, monkey, 250+ bird species, sun bears, etc.

One of the largest wildlife lodges, the Borneo Rainforest Lodges is also present here. This Danum Valley will allow you a canopy walk with almost 1000 ft of rope on the bridge of a 130 million-year-old ironwood tree.

4.   Pulau Tioman

Pulau Tioman is one of the smallest islands of the Peninsular Malaysia. The place is considered as a heaven on earth. If you travel to Malaysia, ensure to visit the place as the green and dense forests with blue waters will attract your attention instantly.

Unfortunately, this place is not frequently traveled by tourists coming to Malaysia from all over the world. This is because the place becomes deserted during the monsoon season (November to February).

5.   Kota Kinabalu National Park

Borneo’s capital city, Sabah, has a historical place, known as Kota Kinabalu (KK) National Park. You can get an amazing experience by engaging yourself in shopping or dining. Moreover, numerous resorts are available across Gaya Island.

Kota Kinabalu National Park is located near Mount Kinabalu. This mountain is the highest peak in Southeast Asia. You can visit the place which is a one-day trip from the main city.

6.   Sipadan Island

Near Semporna in Sabah, sip Adan Island is one of the amazing tourist spots in Malaysia. However, to explore this limestone pinnacle, you must get your permit in advance.

In addition, the place has several species of unique fauna and bizarre flora to make your trip memorable. This island is also connected with Kuala Lumpur. That is the reason why Sip Adan is one of the best islands near the capital city.

Legal Requirements to Travel to Malaysia

Traveling to Malaysia also requires you to apply for a visa from your home country. So, the following legal requirements should be fulfilled to turn your dreams into reality.

• Firstly, make sure to submit your passport valid for almost six months ahead of your departure from Malaysia.
• You are also required to attach two passport-size pictures with your visa application form.
• Moreover, proof of accommodation is a necessary visa requirement that you must have in the form of a hotel reservation or a rental contract.
• In addition, visit RFV Travels to learn about how to book a flight without paying. You can reserve your flight valid for almost two weeks. After that, you can convert it into an actual ticket.
• Writing a cover letter will help the authorities assess your travel and flight plans. You can discuss information related to the duration of your trip, the complete travel itinerary, when you will return to your home country, etc.

Final Thoughts

This blog post has discussed some of the most famous tourist spots of Malaysia you can visit. However, you are not restricted to them and can explore other places on your own. Have a happy journey!
 

by Martin Kafer  

“Oh no! we are stuck!” Esther cries in dismay. The Land Rover, driven by a quiet native man, is mired down deeply. We are on the way to the trailhead for a mountain trek to view the Mulu Pinnacles and now we are stopped in a huge muddy section of the narrow, tree lined jungle track that follows the shore of the Menilau River. The driver tries to pull his way out forward and backward without any luck and, in desperation, finally commands with a shout: “Everybody out and walk along the track!”

Everybody means our local guide Sham and the two of us, my wife and myself. With the vehicle emptied of passengers he is able to get the mud-spattered car onto solid ground, hurray! We can get back in again and then are bumped for about another hour’s slow ride closer to today’s final destination, camp #5 in Gunung Mulu Park. But then suddenly the driver stops again just before we hit a second, larger and impassable looking mucky bit. We are shooed out of the car, there is no choice now, and we have to continue on foot. Sham shoulders his large bundle and we both put on our daypacks, grab our hiking poles, and I strap on my camera bag last.

Our young, good looking native guide, Sham, whose services we had arranged two days earlier at a travel office in the town of Miri on Borneo’s Northwest coast, has joined us at the Royal Mulu Resort. This luxury lodge has two larger service buildings and quite a few smaller guest bungalows, all built from local wood and set on an elevated, snake-proofed platform. For guests the access is by small plane from Miri to the nearby gravel airstrip carved out of the forest along the Menilau River, it is the only way for tourists to get to this remote, fantasy vacation place.

The whole complex was developed by a Japanese hotel chain in the verdant jungle about a hundred km Southeast of Miri. During our first full day at Royal Mulu we joined a small group for a fascinating excursion to one of the nearby karst limestone caves festooned with myriads of glistening stalactites and stalagmites. The quiet beauty of the cave was alive with swarms of (free-tailed) bats, many flying in and out the entrance and others hanging quietly on the walls. Later in the afternoon back at the resort we enjoyed some soothing swims in the lavish, Jacuzzi equipped swimming pool.

On the morning of the trek Sham came to the door of our bungalow and immediately offered an effusive greeting in his stilted English and right after he added with a smile: “This is only my second guiding trip, I hope you are both happy at the end!” On our three-day wilderness hiking trip he will have to carry the heavy stuff, including food and cooking gear, all in a large woven bamboo basket with ridiculous shoulder straps made from string. When we pitied him he laughed: “No sweat, I am used to it!”

A short twenty-minute walk along the muddy track from where we were so unceremoniously dropped off, Sham stops suddenly. He points at the unfriendly looking, fast flowing and oily green Menilau river and says: “Here is the place where we have to cross!”

There is only one option to get to the other shore, we have to wade with boots off and pants rolled way up. Esther ties the bootlaces and hangs the boots from her neck and puts rubber sandals on, Sham and I do the same to our boots and the two of us go barefoot. The bottom is sandy, the water is quite warm, the current is very strong and the waves reach part way up my thighs. By walking side by side with Sham in the middle and all three of us holding onto our hiking poles as a steadying brace, we manage to reach the far side without stumbling or getting too wet.

Safely back on solid ground on the other shore we begin the hike in the big trees of the park, a wonderful contrast to the road side of the river outside of the park, which has been extensively logged. We follow a flat trail with lots of shade – even the hot humid air feels good. We hear lots of birds sing and some frogs, but are unable to spot anything moving in the dense forest as we are trekking along slowly through heavy underbrush, still wet from the previous days rain. Further along the rough trail we easily cross two small fast running side creeks on stepping stones. After about three hours of steady hiking we arrive at camp #5: a shabby looking duo of wooden huts huddled in the narrow Menilau river canyon under the steep limestone cliffs of Gunung Mulu. There is just enough daylight left so the two of us can have a quick swim in a calm pool adjoining the river while Sham is brewing tea at the hut. We just make it back safely by about six when darkness falls like a curtain and a tropical downpour starts with a thunderous drumming on the sheet metal roof.

To our and Sham’s dismay the sleeping mats and blankets, supposedly always stored in the huts, as we had been assured by him, are nowhere to be found. The two long nights we spend on the bare wooden boards with pack sacks as pillows and some spare clothes as mattresses turn out to be ordeals – bruised hips, mostly sleepless nights with only short naps to relieve the misery. This is especially ironic since we spent the previous two nights in the lap of luxury at the five star Royal Mulu Resort.

To make life at hut #5 even more difficult, the battery for the lights, fed by solar panels, is low due to many days of cloudy weather. The kitchen area alone is lit off and on, yet Sham cooks and serves us what turns out to be an excellent dinner, which we enjoy inside followed by tea on the front steps. The rain has stopped for a while and we can watch the fireflies flitting around. The no-see-ums fortunately stopped their stinging activities when it got dark.

Morning cannot come too soon for us, luckily the sun is out, as Sham had predicted in the evening. After a quick breakfast, we set off in the early heat of the new day with Sham leading the way. The fourth member of the party is a park ranger, who has somehow appeared out of nowhere and volunteers to come with us. The trail soon steepens with roots, limestone boulders, long steps in slippery dirt and often thorny tree branches in the way.

We stop a few times for a rest, a drink of water and some dried fruit. The hike is on a narrow, but well marked trail straight up the steep mountain side, which is festooned with lush vegetation – trees, roots, giant ferns, bushes, rocks, dirt, hat grabbers and eye pokers. The sweat pours off me and I am soaked through. It is a relentless climb until we come to a flatter area, where there are many deep and dark pits in the karst limestone. The smaller ones we have to jump across, but the larger ones have been bridged with slippery planks or metal beams. It is quite a balancing act to cross on one or two narrow girders without railings over the gaping black holes: fortunately, we get a helping hand from our guide and the ranger, one at each edge.

To make the trip more exciting we have to climb aluminium ladders for many steep or vertical rock sections. A total of fifteen ladders, Sham tells us, since he was a member of the trail crew that installed them. This trek turns out to be quite a workout for the old legs and arms. The hiking poles are life savers even if they are sometimes in the way, dangling from our wrists, as we scramble up the many ladders.

I have just reached the top rung of another steep ladder leading to a wide, rocky platform when I come face to face with a snake coiled on a boulder, staring at me. “Watch out! a snake here, it’s a green one!” I shout as a warning to Esther who is climbing on the ladder just below me. “It’s only a small pit viper!” is Sham’s reassuring cry. I am lucky enough to have the camera ready, the little creature must be scared because it stays absolutely motionless while I quickly take a shot.

Finally, after nearly four hours of strenuous ascent we reach our goal, the Pinnacles view spot, congratulations all around, we made it, picture time! The panorama of the many sheer limestone pinnacles we can see across the deep canyon is very impressive, especially with the late morning mists drifting around the top of the steep, pyramid shaped rock towers. It’s a unique and once in a life time experience and to me, worth all the drudge and toil of the climb.

Within less than half an hour the view of the fantastic limestone “forest” is obscured by the lowering clouds. As a consolation, we have a nice lunch and a good rest with leisure to admire the beautiful red throated pitcher plants growing profusely on the inside edge of the platform and nearby a small garden of white Impatiens flowers.

The trek down to camp #5, the second painful night on the boards and the long hike out to the river in heavy tropical rainfall are a bit of a blur, but we certainly remember being pounded by a continuous downpour in the lush forest undergrowth. This day provides us with our first unpleasant and messy encounter with blood sucking leeches which Sham tells us should just be ripped out of the skin, since the bleeding will clean out the “poison”! This procedure was especially painful for Esther who, at the end of the trip, discovered that two leeches had fastened themselves near her private parts!

On the other hand, the heavy rains turn out to be very helpful, since the resort’s boatman can use the swollen Menilau river to navigate his large motorized dugout right to the spot where we had to ford on foot two days ago. We are quite pleased when he arrives with a smile, serves up a nice picnic lunch and then takes us in the boat along the flooding river quickly right back to the Royal Mulu hotel and airstrip, no complaints from us about a shorter, smoother and more comfortable return trip.

That same afternoon we fly back to Miri and on to Kuching for more Borneo adventures.

If You Go:

The most important probably is to make early reservations for the expensive, fly-in (from Miri) accommodation and the obligatory local guide, the jungle hike is quite remote and may-be difficult to arrange. The other three factors for a successful hike are: you have to be physically fit, be prepared for hot and exhausting bush travel and put up with the bugs etc. while enjoying a unique adventure.

Borneo history

Travel Borneo

PBS: Borneo in the Clouds

Mulu National Park

About the author:
Martin, who recently celebrated his 90th birthday with a day’s downhill skiing at BC’s Whistler Mountain, was born in Switzerland, has been a mountaineer and ski enthusiast since he was nine years old and a travel adventure seeker since his early twenties. He has, together with his wife Esther climbed over five hundred mountains, including the Matterhorn on their honeymoon. They did many of their climbs during their extensive travels which has taken them to more than sixty countries on five continents during their more than sixty years of marriage. Writing his book of memoirs has been a more recent, but hopefully also successful endeavour.

All photos by Martin Kafer

The night sky brightens abruptly as quick stabs of lightning pierce the dark tropical clouds while we glide onto the airport runway. The fierce storm shakes our plane and the rain obscures the scant glow of the landing lights. We are at Kota Kinabalu (KK as the locals call it) in North Borneo. It is two in the morning. Esther and I are both pretty bushed after a twenty-two hour flight from Vancouver. As we step out of the plane we are greeted by loud thunder which seems to roll in waves across the concrete runway. The tangy, moist equatorial night rain embraces us like a veil of dripping jungle vines.

Outside the airport in the gloomy night the wind catches our parkas while we line up to await our turn for a taxi. Our minds are filled with the very familiar mixture of anticipation and excitement we always have when starting another adventure in a new country on a new continent.

As our decrepit looking taxi pulls out onto the highway to downtown KK the rain starts pounding down in torrents. The visibility is reduced immediately to just a few meters and the roof starts leaking. All road markings are obscured completely and we seem to be lost in a dark tunnel of water feebly illuminated by the single working headlight. Our driver appears unfazed by it all and cheerfully explains that this is the first rain in a month and all the trees and flowers have been suffering.

We have a jet-lagged wake-up the next morning and a cool and bracing shower. At breakfast we find out that a Muslim holiday is being celebrated today, the Sabah Park office and all the banks are closed. We have no choice but to wait in KK and spend a leisurely day seeing a few of the sights nearby, such as the large, vibrant fish and fruit markets along the waterfront, while also trying to get used to the heat, humidity and smells.

Next day we secure reservations for four nights in a cabin at Kinabalu Park headquarters and one night at the Laban Rata mountain huts high on a ridge of Mt. Kinabalu. A quick visit to the bank next door to change some dollars into ringgit and we are ready to finally have breakfast at the café we had spotted on the way. Our first taste of roti canai telur is a savoury delight – it is a Malay specialty: swirled eggs wrapped in a tasty, extra thin, large crepe made with chickpea flour, and fried on a very hot tin plate. We enjoy it with coffee here and whenever we have the chance during our four weeks in Malaysia.

After an afternoon of leisurely sightseeing in KK we are eager to set off for our trek to the mountain. Early next morning, under clear skies, we board a bus which soon leaves the humid plains with the heavy traffic behind. We climb on a winding road through lush fields and mud-hut villages onto a densely wooded plateau. Mount Kinabalu suddenly appears through the tree branches like a grey granite monster festooned with sharp pinnacles, the fleeting view is soon lost, hidden in puffy morning clouds.

The park headquarters with its cabins, hostels, and restaurants, lies at about 1600m on Kinabalu’s wooded flank and turns out to be an ideal place to ease the final remnants of jet lag. We also have a chance to acclimatize for the trek to the peak, which is more than 2500m higher and Amany miles to go.

During the next two days we take long hikes in the surrounding hills which are covered in dense forest. These walks on good trails are not just excellent exercise but also delight us with the variety of exotic trees, many with enormous trunks reaching high into the canopy. We enjoy the abundance of fragrant jungle flowers, exquisite orchids of all sizes and colours, and a myriad creepy crawlies, like spiders, ants, moths and butterflies. The most unusual bug we spot turns out be a Trilobite beetle larva, a tiny beautiful black and red creature. At the dinner table I describe it to an Australian visitor, who happens to be an entomologist on a study tour. He exclaims in an envious tone: “You two are so lucky to see one, it is a very elusive insect, I have never seen one myself.

Now finally the morning of the ascent to Laban Rata has arrived. We pack up early, have a hasty breakfast, and pay our guiding and insurance fees. Afterwards we are introduced to the guide assigned to us, a friendly native 55-year-old Dajak, who says with a confident smile. “My name is Abdul, I have been on top more than a hundred times!” Abdul’s sturdy looks and cheery personality together with his fifty or so words of English promise our two days climbing together will be enjoyable.

Esther and I with our day-packs, and Abdul with his large rucksack, join a large throng of tourists jammed into two small busses that are used to drive the trekkers on a rough road to a weather station high on a ridge. From here everybody starts hiking up the steep trail bordered by a riot of tropical trees, lianas, bushes, orchids, ferns, and yellow rhododendrons. As we get to about 3000m Abdul veers off into the bush to show us some large patches of pitcher plants. With their gaping oversize red and green cups filled with viscous aromatic fluid they look ready to swallow larger prey than just flies.

We are not alone on this trek: about a hundred other tourists are hiking up or down, spread out in groups or singly all along the mountain trail. Some are struggling, gasping as we get higher, others running or resting. The strangest sight is a large party of Taiwanese pilgrims all decked out in yellow robes, including two tiny children in sling-carriers. One of them proudly tells us that they will perform a religious ceremony to bless the children on the peak tomorrow.

As we get higher we pass about fifteen members of a Korean climbing club who are waiting while two of them are attending to a fellow hiker, a 63-year-old man, we are told, who is having breathing problems. A much younger Dutch fellow is sprawled beside the trail gasping for breath, but waves us off when we offer help. We overtake quite a few other hikers as the altitude begins to affect many of them – our rest days at the park lodge lower down have helped the two of us to avoid those difficulties.

We have our well deserved rest and lunch at the first open patches, where only some colourful shrubbery reminds us of the jungle below. The peak is completely obscured by heavy afternoon clouds, but Abdul assures us optimistically: “Tomorrow morning sunshine, for sure!”

Laban Rata lies at about 3400m and is a collection of plywood covered cabins plus a few smaller sheet metal huts: of the two larger cabins one is the restaurant and the other the more expensive, heated accommodation with stacked bunks. The restaurant serves excellent food, which is quite surprising at this altitude: we are told that all the supplies are carried up the trail daily by local women porters.

After a supper of laksa lemak, a spicy noodle soup, followed by rice and mixed vegetables we have a good rest and a quiet time with tea and dessert. Just as we get up from the table, one of the older Korean climbers comes over to our table and inquires politely: “Sorry to interrupt, but tell me please, how old are you both?” He appears amazed when I tell him that my seventieth birthday is tomorrow and Esther is only a bit more than a year behind. “If you were born in Korea you would be long buried under the ground already!” is his wry comment.

The sleeping quarters we have been assigned to are in a small unheated tin shack with narrow bunks, we are alone in there, no other tourists. We spend a shivery and restless night, in spite of using two sleeping bags each and softening the beds marginally with three of the lumpy mattresses purloined from the empty bunks.

Our trusty guide wakes us at three in the dark and we start the climb with head lamps, no breakfast. We wear all our clothes, including the silk long john underwear we specifically brought for this trek. The trail leads up steeply through sparse scrub forest with numerous wooden steps and some steep ladders. Abdul cheerfully leads on with his feeble flashlight as we climb over the granite slabs festooned with hemp ropes higher up. Some of the ropes are just to show the proper route, but on steeper cliffs many are useful as handholds, especially at a section called Panar Laban.

After two hours in the dark, stumbling, grabbing ropes and scrambling up the polished slabs, we are glad when Abdul calls for a rest and gives out a snack. We huddle on the freezing rocks just as the first wisps of dawn light reveal the cold gray of the steep slopes yet to come. The cold is intense, the respite short, and soon we are off again following the trusty ropes that from now on lead all the way to the peak.

A further hour of steep scrambling in the increasing light and we reach the wide summit plateau of weathered granite with its weird rock pinnacles on the edge and ancient glacier grooves. To our surprise some of the deeper cracks are filled with feather ice. The flat granite slabs are a delight to walk up on, especially after the strenuous steep stretches below. The altitude is taking a further toll today as quite a few parties are slowing to a crawl. Some climbers appear to sit for long periods and a woman member of the Korean group is being escorted down by one of the local guides.

The sunrise surprises us, and we stop to welcome the first rays peeking above the horizon. A short scramble and we are on top. About twenty other climbers are resting, chatting, enjoying the sun with us. Esther, Abdul and some of the Koreans congratulate me to have made the peak on my 70th birthday.

Wow! What a view over the expanse of jungle covered hills to the South China Sea in the far distance. Closer to the mountain the countryside is obscured by a thick haze and the morning shadow of Kinabalu projects a giant triangle onto the bed of clouds below. The long summit rest is welcome, the air a touch warmer, the panorama infinite and the talk around us reflects the pleasure and contentment of a job well done.

The descent is easy in daylight and we relish the touch of the solid granite on the few vertical sections. The well-maintained trail together with Abdul’s cheerful chat make for an enjoyable return. We drop the packs and some of our heavy clothes to make our way down to the main building for a very late breakfast. When Esther and I enter the Laban Rata restaurant dining room, the Koreans sitting together at a large table start clapping in spontaneous applause and some wave wildly with big smiles on their friendly faces. What a surprising and delightful crowning touch to a birthday high experience!

2-Night Danum Valley Borneo Rainforest Lodge Hiking and Wildlife Adventure

If You Go:

If you want to visit Kinabalu National Park, the most important thing probably is to make early reservations for the accommodation and the obligatory local guide. The mountain hike is quite popular and even a pilgrimage destination. The other three factors for a successful ascent are: you have to be physically fit, allow a few days at sea level to get rid of jet lag and one or two more days at Park Headquarters for acclimatization.

About the author:
Martin, who recently celebrated his 90th birthday with a day’s downhill skiing at BC’s Whistler Mtn., was born in Switzerland, has been a mountaineer and ski enthusiast since he was nine years old and a travel adventure seeker since his early twenties. He has, together with his wife Esther, climbed over five hundred mountains, including the Matterhorn on their honeymoon. They did many of their climbs during their extensive travels which have taken them to more than sixty countries on five continents during their more than sixty years of marriage. Writing his book of memoirs has been a more recent but hopefully also successful endeavour.

Photos by Martin Kafer  

by Chris Millikan

A fugitive Sumatran prince established Malaysia’s first sultanate in Malacca during the 1400’s…and as it turned out, he’d recognized a good thing when he saw it!

Very quickly, his sleepy seaside-fishing village developed into a prosperous cosmopolitan port, changing hands again and again over time. The Portuguese, Dutch and British all took turns battling for control, each colonizing this strategic seaport on Malacca’s Straits. With a group of lively friends, my husband and I explore some extraordinary legacies left behind.

Our day trip into Malaysia’s oldest city starts off with an early morning boat ride along the narrow channel dividing modern Malacca from picturesque old town. From our sunny seats up on the bow, we’re reminded that countless generations have lived in this long-established river settlement.

Dutch-era Heerin House remains near the jetty, low, elongated and parading its original tinted-glass windows. Scarlet and purple bougainvillea splash colour onto timeworn homes; fresh laundry dances in wafting breezes. Fishermen patiently mend tattered nets aboard cluttered traditional boats, women and children wave from weathered verandas; meter-long monitor lizards bask on doorsteps and paddle lazily under crumbling shaded porches; mudskippers flip and skitter in muddy shallows. I can only think that, Sean Connery himself must have appreciated this timeless charm when filming Entrapment along this pretty waterway…

Here and there along the way some derelict houses have been replaced. Renovated buildings have sprung up, sparkling with fresh yellow, pale tangerine or blue paint trimmed in bright white. Within a few years, more heritage-style housing and tidy brick walkway gardens could transform this nostalgic shantytown into a Little Amsterdam.

Not far from the wharf, Dutch Square’s historic streets are perfect for strolling. Some pay a few ringgits to have ‘kings of the road’ pedal them throughout old town in gaily-decorated trishaws blaring pop music! But we opt to stroll and wander…

Across the small square a beautiful Hindu wedding ceremony had just ended. Dressed in magnificent crimson and gold silk, the bride walked toward red-walled Stadhuys-town hall with her handsome white-clad groom for photos out front. Settling cozily into their own special marriage trishaw bedecked with red flowers, the young couple smiled graciously, posing agreeably. As they were pedaled off into a bright future, we call out warm wishes from Canada…

Originally elegant residences for Dutch Governors, the town hall still shows off its immense wooden doors with wrought-iron hinges, louvered windows and startling red walls. Nowadays several museums share the spacious interior, exhibiting cultural artifacts that include fabrics and traditional clothing.

The Dutch Reformed Church dominates this square. Special pink bricks had been originally brought from Holland in1751 and are now plastered over with local red laterite. Single trees provided its eight-foot ceiling beams without joints; the original handmade pews have been used for years. Beautiful glazed tiles portray The Last Supper…and the brass Bible stand dates to 1773. Later transformed into Christ Church Anglican, the British added the bell tower and weathercock but left the decorated Dutch tombstones embedded in the floor.

Climbing atop Saint Paul’s hill just behind the square, we soak up splendid panoramic city-views from the roofless ruin of Saint Paul’s Church, built in 1521 by a Portuguese sea captain. Later a burial ground for Dutch nobility, aged tombstones lean upright against thick walls. Over 400 years ago, a much-visited open grave there had briefly enshrined St. Francis Xavier, a pioneering missionary; today, a commemorative white marble statue gazes perpetually over the renowned Straits instead.

Flowerbeds border pathways winding gently downward to A’Famosa and Porta de Santiago from 1511, remnants of Malacca’s once mighty Portuguese fortress. Nearby, a reconstructed Malay palace representing the earliest Sultanate in 1456 houses Muzium Budaya, a fine cultural museum. Down the block along the river, a replica of a 16th-century Portuguese galleon hosts the Maritime Museum, highlighting a turbulent history from the 14th-century to Malaysian independence in 1957.

Along Heeron Street, fondly called Millionaire’s Row, the Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum memorializes lives of wealthy Straits-born Chinese. Our young guide delights us with stories illustrating their old ways; slowly whirling ceiling fans cool the late afternoon air…

“The great-great grandchildren of Chen merchants own this 107 year-old-mansion, three lavish townhouses merged together. Adoption of the Malay culture led to distinctive fusions in language, furnishings, foods and clothing, common in Baba-houses like this one,” she explained. “For example, prized silverware blended Chinese and Islamic designs.” She unveils this hybrid lifestyle, pointing out hand-painted silk wall hangings from China, intricately carved fittings finished with gold leaf, elaborate wine-red brocade drapes and lacquered wedding baskets.

Priceless heirlooms dazzle as we trail through wide hallways paneled with polished hardwoods and rooms with secret peepholes for scrutinizing visitors at the door…or even spying on husbands coming home late! We climb up and down wooden stairways constructed without nails and finally into cool, restful tiled courtyards filled with greenery. In the pantry, I whisper, “I especially love these ceramic dishes…they were made in China, exclusively for this family.” The guide smiles, “Blues, yellows, greens and pinks are typical of this blended culture.”

In Chinatown, we wind along Harmony Street and into Blacksmith Street where aged smithies continue their dying trade. A family on Goldsmith Street still custom-makes miniature beaded slippers in beautiful fabrics…specializing in antique ‘bound feet’ shoes, so remarkably tiny. “Now…verrrry expensive collector’s items,” beams the proprietor.

Along nearby Temple Street, three of Malaysia’s oldest religious sites co-exist within two blocks. Elaborate mythical animals and flowers in porcelain ornament the Temple of the Evergreen Clouds; golden lions guard Cheng Hoon Teng, a Chinese temple from 1645. A Muslim mosque built Sumatran-style in1728, Kampung Kling features a pagoda rather than a minaret. And since the 15th-century, the Hindu community has managed Sri Pogyatha Temple. There, an elderly priest in simple regalia, chest bare and face chalked with intricate blue designs invites us to a rare glimpse of an interior altar in the cool, quiet prayer room. We are permitted to photograph a small, spotlighted elephant god backed by blue and red tiles, its ancient arms folded.

In Portuguese Square, we feast on succulent seafood and spicy vegetables prepared from ages-old recipes before making our way to popular night markets along Jonkers Street. Fondly known as second-class gentleman’s street, many shops, galleries, cafes and itinerant hawker stalls have traded here in junk since the Dutch ruled Malacca. Countless items charm the curious: beaded purses with golden chains, bejeweled brooches; odd bits of furniture and painted blue tiles. The narrow, delicately engraved silver belt that I buy for such a good price would please my daughter back home…

All along Jonker’s Walk the warm night buzzes with laughter and friendly bargaining for curios; palm readers chart surprising futures for passersby and in little cafes, elderly karaoke stars belt out local hits for appreciative audiences sipping cups of tea. Yellow and pink lights lend a magical elegance to aging facades adorning timeless shop-houses…

Buying and selling spices, silks, exotic perfumes, teas and tobacco once transformed an early fishing village into this vigorous commercial center. Old Malacca continues actively trading, except nowadays barters her past glories, rich heritage and unique culture to intrigued travelers like us.

Private Tour: Historical Malacca Full-Day Tour from Kuala Lumpur including Lunch

If You Go:

For more travel details visit the Malaysia Travel website

About the author:
A retired Elementary School Principal living in Delta, BC, Chris Millikan enjoys traveling the province and the world with husband Rick. She shares her travel tales with others in local newspapers and magazines. Experiencing zany, off the beaten track, historical and cultural adventures for many years, she looks forward to introducing Willamina, her first grandchild, to the wonders of travel.

Photo credits:
First Malacca Bandar Hilir roundabout photo by Siti Rahmanah Mat Daud on Unsplash
All other photographs by Rick & Chris Millikan.

Malaysia

by W. Ruth Kozak

Ever since I was a child, entranced by pirate stories, I’ve wanted to explore a tropical island, so when I had an opportunity to visit Langkawi Island, in Malaysia it was a dream come true.

Langkawi is the largest in a group of 99 islands nestled off the north-west coast of Malaysia just south of Thailand. The island attracted seafarers and traders bringing spices and silks from China and India. But pirates plied the turquoise waters of the Adaman Sea and while Penang, Malacca and Singapore became significant trading centres, Langkawi lay forgotten, ignored by the passing merchant ships. Was it because they feared the pirates who lurked in the hidden coves? Or was it because of the curse that a beautiful maiden had put on the island when she was cruelly executed for a crime she did not commit. The story of Makran Maksuri is just one of Langkawi’s many legends.

My friend and I arrived on the island by plane from Kuala Lumpur and were whisked by mini van to the Langkawi Lagoon Resort, a short drive along a roadway lined with palms and rice padis where lazy water buffalo wallow tended by snowy white egrets. The resort is located by a wide blue lagoon. Part of its charm are the wooden kampung houses built on stilts over the water.

Langkawi abounds with quiet coves and long stretches of white sand beaches. There are reefs and sea caves to explore and marine parks for snorkeling and diving enthusiasts. Boat tours are available to the many small jewel-green islands that surround Langkawi.

At Pulau Dayan Bunting we are greeted by swarms of long-tailed macaques: whole monkey families: — grumpy grandpas, over-protective dads, mothers with new babies held securely against their breasts and mischievous youngsters. Don’t leave your bags unattended! My friend discovered a girl monkey rummaging through her back-pack searching for trinkets and food.

The jade green Lake of the Pregnant Maiden is a fifteen minute walk through the jungle. According to legend, a celestial princess married a mortal prince and gave birth to a baby which died soon after. Heartbroken she buried the baby in the lake, and before returning to her celestial home, blessed the lake so that any maiden who wishes to conceive who bathes there would become pregnant. It didn’t deter me from enjoying a leisurely swim.

We left the island and cruised to a place where flocks of majestic bronze-coloured eagles surrounded our boat, diving and soaring around us. Continuing past by many small, jungle-covered islands we reach Pulau Beras Basah, “the Isle of Wet Rice” deserted except for the ubiquitous monkeys.

The main town on the island is Kuah (Kwa). In Malay this means “gravy” and is associated with the legend of two giants who spilled a pot of gravy at this spot. The island’s two highest mountains – Mat Cincang and Mat Raya, are named after the giants. “Langkawi” means ‘brown eagle’ and an impressive eagle sculpture guards the harbour. Next to the Square is Taman Lagenda (Park of Legends) exhibiting the myths and legends of the island.

A good place to find bargains is in the small shopping mall or at the out-door market where you must bargain for goods. At the Batik Craft bazaar we are shown the technique of creating batiks with wax and paint. I even tried painting one myself.

Next stop: a place that has great significance in the island’s history and legends, the Mausoleum of Makran Mahsuri. This beautiful young maiden came from Thailand (Siam) in the 1800’s and married the son of the tribal chief. She was respected and loved by everyone but her mother-in-law who was jealous and accused the girl of adultery. Mahsuri was sentenced to death despite her pleas of innocence. As she died, she cursed the island and said that for seven generations the island would not prosper. Fact or fiction, Langkawi did not begin to prosper again until 1987 after the movie “Anna and the King” starring Jodie Foster was filmed here.

The museum at the site of the mausoleum shows proof in the form of English newspaper clippings decrying her wrongful execution and a genealogy chart with photos tracing her history. There is also a movie re-enactment of the tragedy.

Langkawi is a culinary paradise with an impressive selection of Malay, Chinese, Indian and Thai restaurants. One first-class choice is the Matahari Malay Restaurant, a little compound of traditional Malay buildings surrounded by gardens, palms, flowering shrubs and cobbled pathways lit by little lamps. Absolutely charming! A bevy of lovely young Malay women graciously escorted us to our table. The menu offered Sayur Masaic Loder, vegetables cooked in coconut milk, vermicelli and bean curd, Ayam Gulai Kampung, chicken cooked in a clay pot with shallots, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, curry and lemon leaf, turmeric and coconut milk served with a plate of rice, each dish attractively garnished with a darling little red pepper cut into flower petals with green leaves. Traditional Malay music played while we dined.

After dinner we browsed around the lamp-lit gardens inspecting the bird baths full of flowers and tiny green frogs. Even a visit to the washroom was a delight. Sprays of fragrant plumeria were scattered around the counters and floated in the toilet bowls!

An adventurous boat trip from a Malay fishing village took us up the Kilim River through the dense and swampy mangrove forest passing by a rocky island (Flying Fox Island) to observe the hundreds of huge bats. These “flying foxes” or “flying dogs” have wing spans that can reach 1.2 meters. Dozens hung from the trees.

As the boat plied its way up past the river delta to the mangrove forest, we spotted some “mangrove dogs” (Malay dingos), a small russet-coloured dog that can run about in the muck and mire without sinking. The mangrove forest is home to many species of wild life such as pythons, monitor lizards, crocodiles and of course gangs of monkeys. Many shades of green reflect from the jungle. The mangrove trees grow right down into the water, their roots exposed at low tide. They are used for the production of charcoal. and are protected by the ecologists and forestry service.

Farther along, we stopped at a fish farm We teetered along the wooden plank floats and watched our guide feed a manta ray named “Sexy Lips.” He invited me to hold the horseshoe crab or pick up the slippery polka-dotted moral eel but I wasn’t brave enough.

We sailed back downriver to a deserted beach at Tanjung Ruh, where we stopped for a most refreshing swim observed, of course, by a family of curious macaques.

As the sun set behind the palms dappling the Adaman Sea with shimmers of rose and gold, I reflected on my week in Langkawi. It was a memorable holiday, fulfilling my life’s dream of lazing on a tropical island but the only ‘pirates’ I encountered were those pesky monkeys!

If You Go:

Getting there by Air: There are daily flights from Kuala Lumpur and Panang and Singapore. International flights arrive from London, Osaka and Taipei.

By sea: Ferries leave daily from Kuala Kedah and Kuala Perlis to Langkawi. There is also a ferry service between Penang and Langkawi.

Getting around the Island: Tours operate from most resorts. Taxis are readily available.

Accommodation: There is a wide range of accommodation to suit every budget from modest hotels to five-star resorts.

Contact: Tourism Malaysia
Canada Office:
1590 – 1111 W. Georgia Street, Vancouver B.C. V6E 4M3
Tel: (604) 689-8899 Fax: (604) 689-8894 Toll Free: 1-888-689-6872

Langkawi Sunset Cruise with Dinner and Unlimited Drinks

About the author:
W. Ruth Kozak has always loved adventure and dreamed of being on a tropical island. Then one day the dream came true and she found herself in Langkawi, Malaysia. This is only one of Ruth’s many adventures as a traveler. She writes travel stories and historical fiction novels and loves to be on the road exploring and researching.

Photo Credits:
First photo of Langkawi, Malaysia by: Ilyuza Mingazova on Unsplash
All other photos are by W. Ruth Kozak or Malaysian Tourism.

by Alice Driver

In Penang, Malaysia, the Jalan Sungai Pinang is a street crowded with food stalls, and frequented nightly by local Penang residents who come out to savor their toothsome treats.

Buttery roti dough is stretched tissue thin by expert hands and then thrown onto a hot griddle. It is filled with eggs and chicken (roti murtaba), condensed milk (roti bon) or eggs (roti telur). Vendors throw the dough into the air, balance it on one finger and spin it around until it becomes thin. It is folded like origami, and tasty ingredients are wrapped inside. Roti milo, the height of roti decadence, is filled with sweetened condensed milk, powdered chocolate, sugar and dollops of butter. It is slit from the middle to the edge and folded counterclockwise into a golden trumpet. Roti cost only .60 to 3 Ringgit (3.75 Ringgit = $1). The meal is often accompanied by the sticky sweet teh tarik; this popular drink is a mix of tea and sweetened condensed milk.

For breakfast there is no more tantalizingly gluttonous option than Dim Sum at “Bali Hai” on Gurney Drive. Dim Sum restaurants offer small portions of traditional Chinese dishes, allowing travelers to try lots of new food. Lining the counters of the restaurant are freshly baked Portuguese custard tarts, fake shark fin soup, yams covered in coconut, dumplings of all kinds and sticky rice desserts. You can choose as many bite sized dishes as you like and sit down to a view of the ocean. Locals spend all morning there drinking tea, eating and reading the newspaper. The restaurant is lined with large tanks of fresh seafood, and at night converts into a seafood paradise.

Some of the richest gastronomic experiences can be had in the markets of Penang. Street vendors at these markets prepare hot dishes with fresh ingredients right before your eyes. Popular dishes include Char koay teu (fried flat rice noodles vegetables and chicken or seafood), burbur nasi (rice poridge), pau (Chinese buns with various fillings), nasi lemak (rice, coconut milk and anchovies), apam balik (Malay pancakes with brown sugar, peanuts or sweet corn), ais kacang (shaved ice, red bean paste, sweet corn, flavored syrups and ice cream) and jus belimbing (star fruit juice). Markets also sell delicious fresh tropical fruits and juices: watermelon, durian, pineapple, custard apple, mango and papaya. Most dishes cost 1-2 Ringgit.

When you’re not eating the Botanical Gardens provide a relaxing place to walk, run, observe monkeys or nap in the sun. More adventurous travelers can plan a hike up Mt. Penang, also known as Penang Hill. The book Nature Trails of Penang Island, published by the Malaysian Nature Society, is an excellent guide to hiking trails in the area. The hike up Penang Hill takes 2-3 hours depending upon individual fitness and rewards a panoramic view of the city. There is also a Funicular railway train to take visitors up and down the hill. For visitors considering hiking Mt. Kinibalu, the Mt. Penang hike is good preparation. The hike will leave you tired and hungry – ready for another good meal.

Eat Like A Local: Penang Street Food Tour

If You Go:

Language classes provide an excellent opportunity to learn more about the food and culture of Malaysia. Dynamic Language Center offers private and group classes in Malay, as well as Arabic and Chinese. Although most residents of Penang speak flawless English, they will be happy to help beginners practice Malay. Language skills are especially useful to travelers planning to visit rural areas or pursue independent projects. Classes may include trips to local markets, and can be tailored to the needs of each student. For more information about classes visit the Dynamic Language Center website at www.dynamiclanguagecenter.com or email them at dicinfo@po.jaring.my.

About the author:
Alice Driver is a Ph.D. student in Hispanic Studies at the University of Kentucky. Her travel writing has appeared in Cultural Survival, Abroad View and the travel guide To Vietnam With Love. She and colleague Joshua Jennings Tweddell recently published an interview with Colombian film director Víctor Gaviria in the 2008, volume 12 of the Arizona Journal of Hispanic Cultural Studies.

Photo credits:
First Penang restaurant photo by Wan San Yip on Unsplash
All other photos are by Alice Driver.

by W. Ruth Kozak

In the words of British novelist and playwright Somerset Maugham, “If you haven’t seen this place, you haven’t seen the world.” He was referring to Malaysia. And he was right.

As soon as I stepped off the plane at Kuala Lumpur International Airport I felt as though I had arrived at a space-age Wonderland. The city sky-line rises out of the misty green landscape, pierced by the spires of the Petronas Twin Towers, once the tallest towers in the world, and the single minaret of the Menora a telecommunications tower.

Truly a wonder! From the futuristic sleek, space-age high-rises to the ornate Colonial buildings it is an architect’s dream and offers the visitor old-world charm, a fascinating history, unique cuisine and a melding of various cultures.

The city began as a tin mining settlement in the late 1880’s and rose to a bustling modern metropolis with a population of two million. Kuala Lumpur (known as K.L.) means “muddy confluence” and is called The Garden City of Light because of its beautiful parks, gardens and brilliantly lit ultra modern buildings.

Arriving at the luxurious Mandarin Oriental Hotel, I was graciously greeted by the staff, all dressed in traditional Malay garb, and escorted to my room. The wonders had only begun though. I discovered that my hotel was right next door to the famous Petronas Towers (owned by the Petronas Petroleum company). These towering edifices, designed in Islamic architectural style as an eight point star, are built of steel and glass and stand 452 meters high, each connected to the other by a sky-bridge mid-way up. They were featured in the movie Entrapment, starring Catherine Zeta-Jones and Sean Connery. You must line up from 8:00 each morning inside the entrance to obtain your free tickets. Because of my short stay in K.L. I was unable too obtain one so I opted instead to walk the few blocks from my hotel to visit the Menora, a telecommunications tower which ranks fifth in the world along with the C.N. Tower in Toronto. A shuttle-bus took me up the hill to the entrance. From the observation deck of the tower I was treated to sweeping panoramic views of the city.

Sandwiched between the Mandarin Oriental Hotel and the Petrona Towers is the extravagant Suria KLCC, a shopping centre that is home to every known designer — the real goods, not copies! Alongside the Guccis and Versace are well-known brands such as Bata Shoes and The Gap. I spent a half day there browsing and sampling the variety of excellent restaurants. In spite of its exclusive shops, the prices aren’t all that outrageous. The Malaysian ringgit has been kept at a low rate which makes Malaysia a shopper’s paradise. There are good buys at the British India in the Lot 10 shopping complex too. Prices are low and quality high.

After my first day of exploring the area around my hotel, I treated myself to an culinary experience at one of the exclusive restaurants in the Mandarin Oriental. Whether you’re eating at an upscale restaurant or one of the many outdoor patio cafes, dining in Malaysia is a gastronomic adventure offering a unique profusion of tantalizing flavours and culinary delights from Malay, Chinese, Indian to a host of other cultures. I chose a delicious dish of satay, skewers of marinated chicken served with a spicy peanut dip accompanied with ketupa (rice cubes boiled in palm leaf) and a cucumber salad.

You need more than a few days to take in all the sights in this remarkable city. Because I was there for only a limited time before heading north to the islands, I took a city tour to get a taste of the exotic fares offered in K.L’s sensory feast.

The first stop on the city tour passes by the origins of the city. At the murky intersection of the Klan and the Gombak Rivers, the birthplace of K.L. is the quaint Masjid Jameh Mosque styled after the Mogul mosques of North India. All around it are the first of the Moorish-style colonial buildings built in the mid 1800s including the law courts. This is the Official Quarter where the British administrators built their offices around the Padang, a field that used to be a police parade ground and venue for cricket matches. Overlooking the square is the Selangor Club, built in 1890, a charming mock-Tudor building where once K.L.s society held court. Here, at Merdaka Square is the spot where the Union Jack was lowered on August 31, 1957 signifying the end of British colonial rule. Now the 100 metre flagpole proudly displays the Malaysian flag.

Across a wide swath of green lawn, surrounded by a high black iron fence, is the Istana Negara, the official residence of His Majesty the King of Malaysia, a sumptuous yellow building that was once the home of a wealthy Chinese man who had seven wives. Yellow is the royal colour and once upon a time you were shot if you wore yellow!

In front of the gold crested gates the imposing horse guards perform a changing of the guards ritual reminiscent of the horse-guards in London.

Malaysia gained independence from the British on August 31, 1957. To avoid rivalry, the nine Sultans of Malaysia take turns every five years as King. The country is governed by a Prime Minister from the Cyber-city of Putrajaya, just outside of K.L.

From the palace and elegant law-courts, we drive by the Lake Gardens Park where the original settlement started. This huge park sprawls over 200 acres and is home to the world’s largest covered bird aviary, a walk-in free flight area for about 3,000 birds comprising 200 species and a butterfly sanctuary where you can watch more than 6,000 butterflies of various species flutter around the tropical rainforest. There are also Orchid and Hibiscus Gardens which pay tribute to the bunga raya, Malaysia’s national flower.

We stopped at the Royal Selangor pewter factory where the workers demonstrated how pewter is made and the Cultural Craft Museum where we are shown how jewelers make gold rings by a wax molding.

At the National Museum I wandered through galleries displaying the eclectic Malaysian cultural history. The Malay are the largest ethnic group accounting for over half the population and national language. 60% of the Malays are Muslims who co-exist with the Chinese Buddhists and Indian Hindus. The blend of these cultures is displayed in their architecture, crafts, the cuisine and the colourful garments worn by the people.

The National Mosque, an architectural wonder designed with a blue umbrella roof, accommodates 5,000 people. Nearby is the Islamic Arts Museum with its intricately designed mosaic entrance. On display are a variety of artifacts including ceramics, glassware, porcelain, scrolls and bronzes. Many of the textile and jewellery exhibits are from India.

That evening, it was a unique experience to sit by the sparkling roof-top swimming pool at the Mandarin Oriental. As I sipped a cocktail decorated with an orchid, I suddenly heard the captivating, mystical sound of a Muezzin’s call to prayer wafting over the rooftops. My visit to this beautiful city was brief, but unforgettable. Somerset Maugham was right. If you haven’t seen this place, you haven’t seen the world. Kuala Lumpur truly is a wonder.

Kuala Lumpur Tours Now Available:

From Kuala Lumpur: Batu Caves Half-Day Tour

Petronas Towers Observation Deck and KL Tower Tickets

From Kuala Lumpur: Full-Day Trip to Historical Malacca

Private Half-Day Temples and Cultural Tour in Kuala Lumpur

Getting Around:
The city has an efficient transportation network including a light rail transit LRT known as STAR. Trains operate from 6 a.m. to 11.20 p.m. daily with extended hours during public holidays.
Air conditioned buses operate within the city as well as to urban points.
An overhead monorail system lops through the city’s Golden Triangle (business district) and runs past most of the strategic areas.
There are numerous car rentals or taxis may be hired from taxi stands, hailed at the roadside or paged through a radio-phone system.
At Moorish-style K.L. Railway Station travellers may purchase tickets anywhere in the Peninsula.
A wide range of accommodations are available in K.L. from international-standard hotels and resorts to medium priced and budget hotels that offer bed and breakfast.
The Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur (5 star)
All credit cards are accepted and ATMs are readily available.

About the author:
One day W. Ruth Kozak, who has never played the lottery because she usually doesn’t win anything, was lucky enough to win a trip to Malaysia. It wasn’t on her ‘dream destination’ list, but once she’d landed in the amazing city of Kuala Lumpur she knew that she had, like Alice, arrived in Wonderland. Ruth writes, teaches, and publishes travel stories. Now she thinks she should take up playing the lottery!
travelthroughhistory.blogspot.com
wynnbexton.blogspot.com

Photo credits:
First Kuala Lumpur photo by Engin Akyurt from Pixabay
All other photos are by W. Ruth Kozak

Rainforest World Music Festival in Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

by Lenora A. Hayman

The 10th Anniversary of the annual, three-day Rainforest World Music Festival (RWMF) was held in mid July 2007 in the Sarawak Cultural Village in Santubong, 45 minutes drive outside of Kuching, Sarawak on the northwest coast of the island of Borneo.

I toured aboriginal homes, including the Orang Ulu iron-wood longhouse of the central Borneo Kayan, Kenyah, Kelabit and Lun Bawang tribes that are built on tall poles, allowing a bird’s-eye view of approaching enemies. There was also a Bidayuh and an Iban Longhouse, Penan Hut, Malay House, Chinese Farmhouse and a Melanau Tall House.

In the Melanau Tall House, Rose Anthony showed me the process of producing sago. The sago palm trunk’s pith is removed and these shavings with water are stomped on, in a large basket, allowing the sago starch to drain through. The gel is dried on mats and rolled into white pellets. Rose cooked me delicious warm sago wafers on top of the stove.

I was also shown a 12 foot pepper tree at the Chinese farmhouse. Orange and yellow cayenne pepper corns are soaked for two weeks to soften and eliminate the outer skin. The white seed is dried in the sun for one week and white pepper is the result. (right)

Ten years ago, two Canadians, Randy Raine-Reusch, a multi-instrumentalist specializing in wind and string instruments from East and Southeast Asia, and Robert Basiuk, former deputy chief executive officer of the Sarawak Tourism Board, initiated the Rainforest World Music Festival. It is based on the Winnipeg and Vancouver International Folk Festivals with afternoon workshops, up close and personal, with the musicians, followed by evening shows. This year over 23,000 music lovers enjoyed 20 groups from 17 countries including Malaysia and Sarawak.

The Blow-Me workshop involved the Huun Huur Tu Russian Tuvan throat singers and the Aseana Percussion Unit playing the Australian Didgeridoo, an Indian and a Chinese flute. Randy Raine-Reusch played the North Indian pungi snake-charmer double clarinet and the Lao and northeast Thai Khaen, free-reed bamboo mouth organ. (below left)

The Doghouse Skiffle Group from Hull, England explained that after the Second World War there was little money for musical instruments so Lonnie Donegan, the Beatles etc. formed bands using washboards, for percussion, tea-chests with a broom-stick and string attached to sound like a double base (called the doghouse bass) and a guitar.

In the evening there were television screens beside two stages, allowing acts to perform alternately without a break. It was magical, sitting on the ground under the stars, with a happy, international crowd and a Malaysian gliding colugo leaping, like a flying squirrel, from tree to tree.

Dressed in red-beaded costumes and skull caps, the Kelapang Kelabit Bamboo Band and the Anak Adi’ Rurum children, a branch of the Orang-Ulu tribe of Sarawak produced wonderful sounds including hymns from bamboo flutes.

The Black Umfolosi group from Zimbabwe with hard hats and gumboots sang wonderful a capella and with great frenzy, loudly slapped their bodies and pounded their boots while dancing and catapulting into the air. Gumboot dancing began in the flooded South African gold mines during the migrant system. Speaking was prohibited so messages were dispatched via smacking gumboots and shaking ankle chains.

The Mah Meri is one of the 18 ethnically defined tribes of the Orang Asli living along the Malaysian Selangor coast including Carey Island. These fishermen and woodcarvers believe in ancestral spirits. Dressed in bark cloth, grass skirts and magnificent masks they performed for the first time in public, the sacred dance honoring their ancestors.

Thanks for a fantastic, fun time!

More Information:

www.rainforestmusic-borneo.com
www.sarawaktourism.com
www.visitborneo.com
www.borneoadventure.com

Sarawak Tours Now Available:

Sarawak Cultural Village from Kuching City
Semenggoh & Sarawak Cultural Village
Sarawak Semenggoh Wildlife Centre Tour
Sarawak River Cruise Tour

About the author:
Lenora Airini Hayman was born in New Zealand and has lived in Vancouver B.C. for 43 years. She’s been a volunteer since 1984 with the Disability Access Committee for the Vancouver International Folk Festival and was thrilled at the opportunity to attend the Rainforest Music Festival. She is a freelance travel/food and wine writer. Her assignments have taken her to the jungles of Borneo to investigate orangutans, Taiwan to study 13 indigenous tribes and the French Polynesian Islands of the Marquesas to research the original tattooing of the Polynesians who settled there 500 years before the Maori. Contact: itravellen@shaw.ca

Photo credits:
All photos by Lenora A. Hayman.

Art In A Tropical Garden

by W. Ruth Kozak

Tucked away on an small acreage just outside of Kuala Lumpur, a Malaysian architect, Hijjas Kasturi and his Australian wife, Angela, have developed a lush garden paradise retreat for artists and writers.

The Centre for Contemporary and Traditional Art at Rimbun Dahan, (the name means “laden branch” because it was once a fruit orchard) includes a botanical garden planted with indigenous South East Asian species of trees and plants, four studios and accommodation for artists, a large dance studio, an underground gallery, and a restored village house

At the entrance to the grounds I am warmly greeted by Hijjas Kasturi’s gracious Australian wife, Angela (photo at right). Before we set off on our walk around the compound, she explains the objectives of Rimbun Dahan which supports the development and conservation of both traditional and contemporary art forms, from visual art to theatre, dance and music.

“We accept mainly artists from Malaysia and Australia, for the year-long residency, although foreign artists, mainly those from Southeast Asia, are accepted for short-term residencies,” she says. “It also provides residencies for visual artists, students of architecture and ecology, authors, musicians and other creative individuals, allowing them an opportunity to explore and develop their artistic work.” The program is supported by the Hijjas Kasturi Assoc. architecture firm, and is a token of appreciation to Malyasia and Australia for the opportunities that have been provided for the Hijjas family.

The Hijjas family home, designed by the architect, dominates the compound. Built to compliment the traditional Malay kampong house which was relocated to the compound and restored, the modern house merges the modern and traditional using environmentally friendly materials, solar panels and pond water for flushing and watering.

Inspired by gardens in Australia where local plants are used to create a specific sense of place, Angela Hijjas landscaped the acreage with a wide range of indigenous forest species and other plants from South East Asia.

The Hijjas’s decided to compliment their private collection of art housed in the underground gallery by inviting artists to live at Rimbun Dahan.

“There are no government grants for artists or performers,” explains Angela Hijjas. “Although some prizes are awarded for popular artists who have struggled a lifetime to fulfill their talent, there is little support for the artists struggling to develop their art, musical skills or theatrical talent.”

Thus the concept of the Hijjas family’s unique residency program began.

The landscape, as well as the architecture of Rimbun Dahan raffirms a sense of place and culture in its natural environment of Malaysia.

The entrance to the herb garden (photo at left) is guarded by a stone lion draped with a garland of sweet-smelling frangipanni. and sprigs of nutmeg. The gardens use a Malaysian style of landscaping and include indigenous plants from South East Asia. As we stroll the winding pathways under the canopy of tropical trees, we are introduced to many varieties of palms, fruit and forest trees such as the tall keluih trees (a type of breadfruit), betel nuts and fruit bearing durian.

The plants in the herb garden are from Indochina, Burma, Thailand, the Malay peninsula and India. Some are also from tropical America.

Accompanied by the trilling chorus of birds like the yellow vented bullbulls who occupy the treetops, we explore and admire the ornamental and flowering shrubs. The flowers attracts many butterflies, flocks of birds, and bats. Two types of monkeys, long-tailed macaques and dusky langurs hang out in the rambutan trees eating the fruit. There are also many tropical squirrels and palm civets who are mostly nocturnal and solitary. Wild boar often come into the orchard to graze on fallen fruit.

Various species of lizards inhabit the compound, such as the crocodile-sized water monitors The dogs keep check on the population of these biawak, who are sometimes seen basking in the sun or swimming in the reflective pools near the Hijjas’ house.

The cobbled and gravel pathways wind through the lush tropical greenery and lead us to a grassy compound where the artist’s studios and residence are located (photo at right). There are usually three or four artists living in residence. They benefit from the unique atmosphere of Rimbun Dahan, and the rich experience that emerges from bridging cultural difference as they develop their own artistic practices.

Beyond the artists’ studios, we step back in time into a beautiful traditional 19th century Malay house (Rumah Uda Manap) (photo above).We take off our shoes, as is the custom, and mount the steps to enter the interior. The house overlooks the garden of the Rimbun Dahan and is furnished in Malay style, representing a unique blend of Chinese decoration and Malay architecture including hardwood carvings by Chinese artists. Much of the restoration in the century-old village house was contributed by the resident artists including several of the carved panels that depict mythological animals, and the colourful painted carving of an inverted sky dragon.

A highlight of the tour is a visit to the art gallery (photo at left). To conserve ground space and to be better able to control the humidity, the gallery was built underground. Each artist in residence contributes two paintings or sculptures to the permanent collection.

Every year Rimbun Dahan hosts Art For Nature, a unique showcase of artistic works created by Malaysian and international artists in support of nature conservation. Half of the proceeds from sales of the artworks in this exhibition go the artists for sales of their work and half to W.W.F. – Malaysia’s nature conservation and wildlife protection programmes which include scientific field research, environmental education and policy work with the government.

The botanical garden at Rimbun Dahan is open to the public whenever there is an art exhibition. Private group tours can be arranged with contributions going to the Malaysian Nature Society.

Tours from Kuala Lumpur Now Available:

Private Full Day Tour to Taman Negara National Park

Cameron Highlands Private Full Day Tour

Batu Caves Tour With Fireflies and Dinner

Historical Malacca Full-Day Tour from Kuala Lumpur including Lunch

Batu Caves Tour from Kuala Lumpur

More Information:

For information about the artist’s residency program and nature tours see the Rimbun Dahan website.
For more information about WWF, Malaysia’s conservation and wildlife protection program, see www.wwfmalaysia.org.
For information about the Malaysian Nature Society visit www.mns.org.my.

About the author:
W. Ruth Kozak has been a historical fiction writer since her teens and a travel journalist for more than 15 years. What began as a personal journey to visit, then live in Greece, motivated by her life-long interest in ancient history, has now emerged into this travel ‘zine where other writers can share their experience of travel and life abroad. She also instructs classes on travel writing, creative and novel writing and memoirs. She has traveled extensively, often solo and always on a budget. Her website is www.ruthkozak.com.

Photo credits:
All photos are by W. Ruth Kozak.